Quote:
Originally Posted by robains
As for your tire readings, assume you listed
Front OMI IMO
Rear OMI IMO
If that is the reference point then I suggest:
1. LF + 1 to 1.5 lbs.
2. RF either has too much or too little camber (pending IMO reference point)
3. LR + 1 lb
4. RR + 2 to 2.5 lbs
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if i came off the track in the formula car here is what this info would direct me to do(after
thinking about it).
assuming they were taken with a probe type pyrometer and the tires were still hot; and toe was (still) good(after the session as it was before the session):
1. (LF) looks fine(or close enough not to mess with it, you want ~ a 10% range across the tire with the pyrometer. this is what i was taught, and what i shoot for as my target as being acceptable).
2. add just a touch of negative camber, then after one session decide on air pressure. I find changing one variable at a time gives best results. i think just some more negative camber would do the trick, but make sure after setting the camber that your toe is still set correctly.
3. remove just a touch of negative camber, then possibly add 1/4-1/2 psi. but I would only make one change per session, and do the camber first
4.add 1/2 psi and adjust the psi the following session, camber looks fine to me.
doing more than one change per session is ok when you are really comfortable with the tools and the readings you get, and how the changes you make will affect things.
i used to see guys make "wholesale changes" in the pits when i raced bikes, and they never really knew what particular change did/didnt work when they went out next session.
when learning/testing, its best to only do one change at a time each session.
write down the weather conditions and other notes about the track(time of day for each run etc.) and save the set up on paper in your car note book that you always take with you to the track.
next track you go to you might make changes, so if its written down you can get close on the first session when you return to this track given other variables havent changed.
my additon of psi would be done while the tire is still hot, not when it cooled down.
then i would check my COLD psi before going out next session AND RECORD IT, and again check them hot when i come in AND RECORD IT before fine tuning if needed.
there are lots of approaches to things at the track. i figured i would post this so people could get different approaches to the readings given.
if you track the car and dont have a pyrometer..............buy one.
great tool to have, and buy the probe type, not the IR type.