I will also recommend the ARP studs. The torquing procedure is more like a stretching bolt procedure, reach that torque, and turn 1/4 turn, and another 1/4 turn. If you don't buy ARP stud, I think you should use new bolt since they are stretched.
Other than that, straight forward job.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kris from DRS
Rob, Snap-On has a deep narrow 12 pt socket that will help make the job easier.
You can use the stock Toyota headgasket.
I also recommned using the OEM Toyota coolant.
We have ARP studs if you decide to go that route.
I recommend also doing a leak-down test before you remove the head. If you remove the cams prior to the leak-down test the results will be less fallible too.
Kris
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Elise 2006, white, Katana
Europa 1969, green, H22A, 194 whp, 1550#
CONFIGTECH.ca / Solidworks
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