[fzust]

Originally Posted by ishur

Fred:

I will be getting my car back from FVMC tomorrow. Can you be a little more specific on the "re-break-in"--are you basically saying do it like the first 600 miles on the stock car (except only for maybe 100-200 miles), i.e., mostly half throttle or less with occasional bursts of WOT, and nothing above 6000 rpm or so?

Just want to make sure I treat it right.

Make sure they test the MAS air! per the instructions in the post above! As far as break in, a couple hundred miles of moderate driving getting a bit more aggressive as you go. See post #100 from CharlieX(re-posted here for convenience)

add to what fred says
drive the car all over the range, lik you're breaking it in, idle 15 minutes, dont drive at a constant speed/throttle/load for 60 minutes and think it'll be done, it has to vary to each breakpoint on the map, if you have an ecu with a prior adaption it'll start further off and take slightly longer to settle.
in the meantime you might see some off throttle stalling, this isn't an uncommon thing with the cars, (excessive stalling points to vacuum or exhaust leaks )

if you think you're getting any knock you can run higher octane gas till it settles down, if you mix octanes you'd need at least half a tank of each to make a difference, the more of the higher octane , the better.

also if you do get lumpy idles, check the short term fuel trims, if they're excessively negative -12 or worse, look for vacuum leaks, positive look for exhaust leaks.
you're looking for best 0-4, typical -4 to 4

easiest way to pinpoint intake leaks is with a hose pipe and a LIGHT stream of water, don't go powerwashing it, the engine will hestitate when you hit the right spot, you can use contact cleaner or such and spray it around the engine bay, however it can be harder to find the leak and some of that stuff is corrosive.

exhaust leaks are usually pretty easy to find, cat, or the clips.

i'd say 90% of the install problems i've heard about fall into the vacuum leak type, the rest have been trapped wires, incorrect seating of the injectors (those rubber o rings ought to be changed at install, they're cheap from toyota), reversed wiring (check and recheck) .


the injectors are a common place for leaks too, i've seen it where they leak and they don't spray fuel, though i've seen that too, up close!

obviously theres different types of detonation, if its heavy det, then you definitely want to switch to higher octane or look into it, i'm talking about mild barely noticeable stuff , which should happen 4500 - 5800 rpm give or take.