Quote:
Originally Posted by robains
Phil,
On a side note, do the lower comp pistons you used weigh less?
Rob
P.S. For you folks fearing engine life issues, do bare in mind that a NEW (not rebuilt) short block and cylinder head with valves comes it under $2000 -- which is less than the SC. Just an FYI.
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Good point on the cost issue Rob. These 2zz mills are cheap in more ways than one
Yes, the mahle forged pistons are lighter and they drop right in the stock block. No Balancing required in a cse like this...
A quick filing of the rings, swap the rods, and you're good to go... It's certainly not complicated. I could easily do it in a day with the engine still in the car... (it IS a clam off or tilted up operation though). Granted I know my way around the engine compartment fairly well
... I would say most anyone else could knock it out in a weekend at a more leasurly pace...
Quote:
Originally Posted by plastique999
Thanks for the clarification Phil, I agree that the stock pistons are def. maxed out around the 275 realm before needing to upgrade pistons for more durability. If you feel the stock pistons will hold with your kit, then I am game (reason being, I have the opportunity to upgrade to forged pistons, but that is a whole different ball game....compression, boost, tune, etc.) At this point, I am most concerned about reliability on the "glass engine."
Edit: I just read Rob's above post....so your pistons ARE upgraded?
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Yes, I upgraded my pistons so that I can go further. My ambitions are 300whp -ish-....
The numbers I posted on this setup are conservative 10psi boost levels for those on high compression. 10psi boost and 11.5:1 (stock comp) is really all you can do on 91 gas since that will get you to about 20:1 effective compression. 20:1 ECR +/- a point is considered the safe rule of thumb for 91 octane... I was only running 15:1+/- ECR and pulling those numbers, therefore the numbers indicate a stock engine will pull more HP than I did, all else equal...
Best,
Phil