Quote:
Originally Posted by Solo2Elise
When the problem occurs, I didn't hook up laptop with EFI. Once Power to Win synched with EFI, idle immediately dropped. The idle screw is in perfectly. Throttle cable, IAC, throttle body has been checked/cleaned/replaced. No, stabbing throttle does not help.
I also think it might have a leak somewhere. Maybe fuel injector leak?
|
Check a few basic things:
1. Is the closed-throttle around 10 Deg?
2. In Idle Constants, What are all the values?
Typical values, are 400 Hz, TPS limit of 11.5 or 12, RPM limit of 1,500 to 2,000 P Gain of 50 to 60, and I gain of 5.
The above are very important. If a condition is exceeds one of these limits the IAC circuit turns off and then the valve will stick open causing a high idle (like a vacuum leak). This type of IAC is essentially a controlled vacuum leak (unlike DBW cars that use the throttle plate).
Also, check the condition of the IAC connector. Do wires look OK? Are the sockets in the housing in good shape? Check for 12V at the green wire. Then try pulling on the wires a little and see if your voltage changes.
regarding your fuel leak. This is dangerous, but second to thatm if there is fuel leaking on the manifold side of the injector this is also a vacuum leak. If this vacuum leak accelerates the engine above the RPM limit mentioned above then the IAC circuit will turn off b/c the ECU thinks it doesnt need to be in idle mode.
More on vaccum leaks and using software tools to help diagnose and protect the engine from over revs as a result of vacuum leaks in my next post.
Kris