[Jim Itin]

A couple of additional notes for Michael's highly detailed oil change
procedure:
1) Before taking the car out for a drive (the oil must be hot before
changing), remove the access panel. This will allow you to start
draining the oil much sooner (while it's still hot and the junky stuff
is still suspended in the oil). On the other hand, you might not
need to remove the access panel before the drive if you've
substituted Dzus fasteners (quick release fittings) for the standard
hex nuts / allen head fittings.
2) Run the car at moderate to aggressive rpms for at least 15 minutes
(or more since it's fun). The point is to get the oil FULLY warmed up
and the thermostat(s) to the oil cooler(s) open so that the oil in
the cooler(s) circulates thru the sump.
3) When you've completed the banzai drive around the countryside,
and you're draining the old oil, let the sump drain for at least 20
minutes. As long as you can stand it is best -- less old oil left to
mingle with the fresh lube is better.
4) Before re-installing the sump drain plug, wrap a few turns of Teflon
tape around the threads. Not really necessary, but you know the
plug will come out the next time without damaging any threads.
5) Fill the new filter about 80% full with fresh oil, then thread it back
on to the cleaned mount (after lubing the filter's seal, of course).
This will eliminate most of the lag required for the oil pump to fill
the filter housing (which must happen before oil reaches all those
sensitive bearings). I know it's only a few seconds, but a little oil
starvation goes a long ways with crankshaft and camshaft bearing
surfaces.
Jim