LotusTalk - The Lotus Cars Community - View Single Post - Installing the ForcedFed's Cold Air Intake

Randy Chase · 05-23-2005, 07:43 AM

Step by Step Instructions

Tools needed-

Floor Jack
Tools to remove rear wheel
Flat and Philips Screwdriver
Set of Sockets (specially 13mm)
Set of wrenches (specially 7,8,9,10mm)
Allen Wrench
A couple of tie wraps

I recommend another person or a small clamp. I also recommend ratcheting wrenches to speed things up.

1. Remove the stock air inlet tube. This is the rubber tube going from the air box to the intake manifold. Using a flat screwdriver, loosen the stainless steel clamps on both ends. Once loose enough, pull away from the manifold and then the air box. The inlet tube and the clamps will not be re-used.

2. Unplug the VSV connector. Always use care when removing the connectors. Depress the tab on the side to unlock the connector and then remove the mating part. The VSV is the module with the orangish connector in the next picture. Here you see the intake tube has been removed, and the mating connector from the VSV has also been removed.

3. Unplug the mating connector to the MAF (Mass Air Flow sensor). This is the black squarish device located on the air box. The connector is longer and has a similar locking tab on the side.

4. Remove both vacuum lines going to the VSV. You may find it easier to use a combination of gentle pulling and a flat bladed screwdriver to get the tubes to release.

5. In the above picture, you can see a "T" fitting on the vacuum lines. There is a small rubber plug on one port on the "T." The vacuum lines are either going to the airbox, or they were from the VSV. One line was going to the engine. Remove that line from the engine and using the rubber cap you just removed, cap off the engine vacuum port. The rest of the vacuum lines and fittings you removed will not be re-used.

6. Using the factory jacking point, jack up the car to gain access to the rear driver's side wheel. Remove wheel from car. You may want to use a jackstand or some other method to insure your safety. You will not be working under the car, but you will be working inside the rear wheel well.

7. Remove the wheel well splash guard. This is held on with 7 plastic screws. You will probably have to also remove (pull out) the mating plastic fasteners, specially the front two. Once all screws have been removed, the trick is to bend it away from the lip of the wheel well and then extract the entire piece.

Side note, it was kinda cool seeing the date of the manufacturer for my car-

05-23-2005, 07:43 AM	#1 (permalink)
Randy Chase Registered User Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: San Diego and where ever the roads lead Posts: 28,174 Images: 761	Installing the ForcedFed's Cold Air Intake Step by Step Instructions Tools needed- Floor Jack Tools to remove rear wheel Flat and Philips Screwdriver Set of Sockets (specially 13mm) Set of wrenches (specially 7,8,9,10mm) Allen Wrench A couple of tie wraps I recommend another person or a small clamp. I also recommend ratcheting wrenches to speed things up. 1. Remove the stock air inlet tube. This is the rubber tube going from the air box to the intake manifold. Using a flat screwdriver, loosen the stainless steel clamps on both ends. Once loose enough, pull away from the manifold and then the air box. The inlet tube and the clamps will not be re-used. 2. Unplug the VSV connector. Always use care when removing the connectors. Depress the tab on the side to unlock the connector and then remove the mating part. The VSV is the module with the orangish connector in the next picture. Here you see the intake tube has been removed, and the mating connector from the VSV has also been removed. 3. Unplug the mating connector to the MAF (Mass Air Flow sensor). This is the black squarish device located on the air box. The connector is longer and has a similar locking tab on the side. 4. Remove both vacuum lines going to the VSV. You may find it easier to use a combination of gentle pulling and a flat bladed screwdriver to get the tubes to release. 5. In the above picture, you can see a "T" fitting on the vacuum lines. There is a small rubber plug on one port on the "T." The vacuum lines are either going to the airbox, or they were from the VSV. One line was going to the engine. Remove that line from the engine and using the rubber cap you just removed, cap off the engine vacuum port. The rest of the vacuum lines and fittings you removed will not be re-used. 6. Using the factory jacking point, jack up the car to gain access to the rear driver's side wheel. Remove wheel from car. You may want to use a jackstand or some other method to insure your safety. You will not be working under the car, but you will be working inside the rear wheel well. 7. Remove the wheel well splash guard. This is held on with 7 plastic screws. You will probably have to also remove (pull out) the mating plastic fasteners, specially the front two. Once all screws have been removed, the trick is to bend it away from the lip of the wheel well and then extract the entire piece. Side note, it was kinda cool seeing the date of the manufacturer for my car- __________________ * V E R I T A S * A E Q U I T A S * No Longer the ADMIN here, please do not PM me asking for help. Thanks! 2006 Noble M400. Getrag tranny, Quaiffe LSD, Hinged clams. Duratec dual turbo V6. Hoosier 315-18 tires. 2350 pounds. Over 500hp. Track weapon. 2009 Rossion Q1. Monaco Orange. Wing. Black leather/Alcantara with orange stitching. The street car. In build: 2009 Toniq R (300whp? 1100 pounds?). Chrome Orange. Lexus GX-470 tow vehicle.