[TimMullen]

I'll second the recommendation on the GearWrenches. I have both kinds, GearWrench brand straight handled ones, and Craftsman branded reversible angled handled ones. The two variations help fit in places you normally can't get into. I hardly use my regular combo wrenches any more. A 1/4 socket set (regular and deep) is very handy on a small car like the Elise.

For Toolboxes (and tools), Sears Craftsman is always a good bet - especially if you wait and get things on sale. Costco (and other big box stores) often have nice stainless steel boxes, and I've heard good things about them. I've even found a nice one at Harbor Freight once (low price), but other's there were junk. Of course Snap-On, Matco, etc. are excellent tool boxes, but the price goes up - way up...

I have two roll around tool boxes, one an older one with "regular" drawer slides, and the other with ball bearing slides. A lot of people make a big deal about the ball bearing ones, but it really isn't that big a deal. Some people claim that the ball bearings matter when you have the drawers loaded, but both my boxes are heavily loaded with tools (heavy tools) and the ball bearings aren't that much better - better yes, but not that big a deal. The ball bearings are a bit nicer, but don't pass up a good bargain on a "regular" slide box.

Some boxes have "high" drawers, others have "thin" ones. More drawers provide more area to lay tools down on neatly. Some boxes are sold advertising cubic inches of space, but that is not very important - you need more surface area to lay out the tools (more drawers) - unless you are planning to store you circular saws in the box . Some cabinets have multiple drawers "horizontally" (what should be one drawer is split into two or three side-by-side drawers. Avoid these. You can't store much in them - and it's a real pain to discover that you tool that you want in the drawer is a 1/2 inch longer than the width of the drawer.

Roll around tool boxes are often two boxes put together - the bottom and the top chest. Most bottom chests have drawers that are 21-22 inches deep (front to back). Some of the top chests are nearly as deep, but many (most?) are 4-6 inches less deep. This dramatically reduces the space in the top - look for the deeper top chests. One "trick" that they seem to pull at the stores is to slide the "shallow" top chests forward, leaving the gap at the rear. Make sure that the top drawers are the deeper ones.

Sometimes Sears has deals where you get a smaller bottom and top, and you get a "free" 3 or 4 drawer add-on (actually in between) chest. This really isn't a good idea, since you lose a lot of space in the base and top of that addition add-on chest - space that could have been two or three additional drawers on your stack.

I learned the lessons the hard way (which is why I have the second tool box)...