[Tonywa28]

aw shux! Seriously, thanks for all the kind words. The board kept me going when I was getting worn out with the project a week or so back. It really does motivate you when you get some feedback!!

Special thanks to Rob for his help! He gave me some good input and reviewed my ideas and documents.

Looks like Jim-Clayton did some eariler testing on the straight bypass (good job!)with similar results to mine (5-6 degrees difference), so now I have more confidence that this is a common problem. Living in FL is a motivator, isn't it Jim. Also lowering the firewall heat soak is a less obvious, but maybe just as important by-product of the by-pass.

Sounds like there's enough momentum for me to take some names and put together some kits. If your so inclined, send me an email tony.wattwood@gmail.com. I'll probably collect emails for a few days (say end of the week, 7/29) to get the scope of the number of kits I need to make up, then I'll get back to each of you with the cost and availability date. If I see a number of quick responses, I'll go ahead and start ordering parts to cut down the time lag...please don't leave me hanging!

Two quick comments on recent posts
1) Foam in the sills. I've never really looked at the sills very hard to see the is there is any access, but I do know in Japan some of the Sport Compact guys are injecting their frames with foam for added stiffness. Should make them cooler and quieter too!
2) Bypass in the engine compartment rather than up front to have cooler sills. Likely wouldn't help too much as the main radiator pipes still go from back to front to the radiator. It would also take a larger amount of the available coolant out of circulation. It also bugged me a bit that when the bypass was switched off a fair amount of cooler water would hit the system. But I'm over analyzing....always. It would probably work great.

Again, Thanks for the Thanks!

PS - I guess I hijacked this thread from poll to fix. I get on tangents really easy....as you guys can clearly see.