Total assembly weighs 13 lbs (pressure plate, 2x disc, and flywheel combined) *Different disc liners available for specific applications
Clutch is amazyling driveable (for what it is). Not intended for stop-and-go traffic, but is able to do it if you needed to. Best suited for serious track or Auto X use.
Requires no aftermarket master or slave cylinder.
Installs with stock flywheel bolts.
Please email us at sales@racesolutions.com for inquiries.
]]>Thanks guys. ]]>
I noticed my redline kicks in much sooner nowadays - about 7750 RPM in 1st and 2nd gear, maybe 8000 in 3rd and 4th.
2006 Elise with 46000 miles on it, last oil change less than 1000 miles ago, ambient fall Chicago temperatures. Car usually runs at 181-187F. Long trips (30-90 minutes). Car otherwise runs perfect.
I think the rev limiter is still unchanged, but have not tested it much lately. ]]>
Also, any recommendations for a good source for gauges? ]]>
Does anyone have any exerience with this new set up? How does it work? Have you installed it and if so was it terribly difficult? Thanks ]]>
My 2nd gear synchro doesn't want to play nice anymore. 2nd day into lotus challenge series #9 did the trick. The car has approx 20k on it, and I'm a fairly experienced heel-toe downshifter, never failed a manual transmission before, but here I am. This is a fairly popular 2nd gear issue that shows itself in 3rd to 2nd shifts.
My question, to remedy this situation, what are the best options? There are proficient tranmission guys in my area, perhaps I should remove the tranny and take it to them? Find a junkard c60 or c64 that is low mileage? a factory toyota part. This may be the right time to seek limited slip, if I can fit that into the picture.
Basically, I will need to get a solid shifting transmission back in the car by early spring. If you have advice on how to remedy this, I'd appreciate it.
cheers ]]>
my problem is in the book they just say 'if deep scratch replace the block'. Now what the heck is a deep scratch ???? if i can avoid to sleeve the engine my wallet would appreciate...
of course the machine shop says i have to sleeve, anybody has guidelines ??
thx
thanks
for people wondering what i m talking about : Toyota OEM Intake VVT Sprocket 1ZZ, 2ZZ - TOY-13050-22012 van Toyota OEM - Monkeywrench Racing -
i hesitate because in the manual it says to 'not disassemble the valve timing controller assembly' page 9 of 26 : http://kightlinger.net/files/persona...AIN_REPAIR.pdf ]]>
Just questions of the day...
Thanks in advance,
AK ]]>
(this is a mustang dyno where the rear wheels turn steel cylinders. for a dynapack my question is not applicable as in that case wheels are taken off and the dyno connected directly to rear hubs.)
i have called some people and i have done some searches here and asked in existing posts and got some answers, but i still don't have confidence. so i am about to summarize my current findings here and hope to come to a conclusion.
in this tread http://www.lotustalk.com/forums/f25/...2/#post1372705, there was first a lot of just what not to do (and that's good to know too), but not a suggestion of how to actually do it, until Post 13 by Simba:
Quote:
|
Take the diffuser off, bolt two tow hooks (pegasus, et al) into the front diffuser bolt threads on the subframe with grade 8+ bolts, cross the rear straps over, and you should be good for the rear. Front wheels can just use tie down loops in the wheel spokes, one front, one rear for each front wheel. |
another problem is that others have suggested against crossing the straps in the rear due to them being likely to get burned and snapping due to proximity of the exhaust.
have others done it this way?
there is also this approach: http://www.lotustalk.com/forums/f163...ml#post1375434,
where Post 201 says:
Quote:
|
I strapped the front the tow bar in the nose. The rear is suspension arms. I've had no trouble in the hundreds of dyno runs the car has seen. Its not a fragile as you might think..... |
and there is again suspension arms. the manual specifically says not to use those for strapping the car, but maybe the manual is overly conservative, and it may be that the car does not see as much loading on the dyno (i expect ideally next to none) as it would on a tow truck.
and if many people have done it like this without problems, then i am ok with it. have you? ]]>
Where can I find a workshop manual for these transmissions? ]]>
Do I need a whole kit for $400 or can I get just the clutch plate for $100? I don't want ot short-change the job, I just don't understand what I need to get, my first clutch job. I hope to pull the tranny out this weekend if I'm brave enough. I figured I might as well replace the clutch too. ]]>
I have an accusump in the trunk along with the Canton can bolted to the trunk firewall. The saiku michi is attached to the aft wall of the engine compartment immediately behind my water res. It's a bit of a pain to drain the saiku michi, but after attaching a couple inches of rubber hose to the valve and using a small clear water bottle, I get the job done without burning myself (anymore).
The folks at Saiku Michi hooked me up to experiment with this approach and since it worked well, I'd say they deserve a plug. Frankly, if they could get their second catch can outfitted with a breather cap and tie the drain valves into one tube for a one shot drainage operation, then that would be ideal IMO. ]]>
YouTube - PPG Gear box - Ignition DVD :clap:
This thread is aimed toward owners with C56 or C60 transmissions that have big power applications with a need for stronger gears.
I contacted them asking them to produce a gearbox for my 7th Generation Celica (1ZZFE/C56). Their initial response was
"We have in the past made a GT4 Celica set, but would most likely have to manufacture some custom componentry for later model Celica’s. For a customized gearset we usually charge between $7000 - $11000, and at the current time have a wait list of 4-6 months, if someone were to place an order of this type we would look at doing a set for them and then listing these gearsets for general sale. Do you know someone that would commit to this?"
Later replying:
"The initial research, development and manufacture would place the price at $7k - $10k, often after this initial set is completed we can set the price lower. But unfortunately the cost would still not be below $5k. The only way I can see that the price can get below $5k is a group buy of 15-20 sets at one time.."
If there are any other members interested in this let me know so I can give them a count and see what kind of estimate we can get. I have this thread also posted on newcelica.org and will be on spyderchat.com. I will wait to give them the count until after they get back from the SEMA SHOW in Las Vegas from the 31/10/09 - 11/11/09. By giving me a count does not obligate you in any way to this purchase. It gives me a ball park number I can relay back to PPG for an estimate group buy amount$.
Also see this thread:
PFITZNER Performance Gearboxes Group Buy for 7th Gen Celica!!! - NewCelica.org Forum ]]>