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True. There's ALWAYS someone with a jack and a good assortment of tools. Remember to bring your wheel bolt tool and a torque wrench, which everybody else has as well?
Baby steps my friend...........Start small then acquire slowly. Learn from your track days and make improvements on what to take each time. There will not be a lot of other Lotus owners there as usual but we are all track rats there for a common rush. Make friends and enjoy yourself!
Just something I have learnt from my whole jack buying experience, If you buy a jack that can lift 1000kg and you use it to lift 1000kg repeatedly then it will fail sooner than later. If you only lifting 400kg max with it, then they seem to last many many years. Rather buy a higher capacity jack than buying multiple jacks.
Are you planning on bringing a change of wheels to the track? Honestly I rarely ever need one (emergency brake pad change at worst), so always borrow. One less thing to pack.
I've always used hockey pucks without issue. I know some on the forum prefer wood. Just make sure you're on the proper lifting point and that the jack can move easily.
I think the damage we see to the rockers is mostly from the jack not being able to roll into position.
BTW, I just looked at the link I provided. The first picture is of the BigRed 2.5 ton jack. The second picture looks like a trolley jack.
It also states that the jack weighs in at a "lite weight" 41lbs.
I've got the cheap-o Harbor Freight aluminum one that was like $70 (I think). If your car is stock, meaning no skirts they work great. My car has the Sector/GRP skirts and while it still works I sorta have to jam it in there to get it to reach the jack point.
If you're tracking a bit and going to be changing tires/wheels at the track I'd consider one of the wheel stud kits. I did the BWR one (I think that's it) and it makes a HUGE difference when swapping. No fumbling around lining things up or using a little peg - just bam, on the car.
Looks like they both have pads on them which might mean - though I'm not sure - that you can use them without hockey pucks or wood or some other kind of pad.
In general I'm not a fan of Harbor Freight, but our four-year old Harbor Freight 1.5 ton aluminum jack has been a workhorse between my two sons, their friends, and me. Also see a lot of them at the track. Oh, looks identical to the Goodyear model, go figure...
But based on what I have read about jacks on various forums, w/o laying out several hundred for a professional-quality jack, it seems quality is hit or miss even within the same product line.
Generally I would agree with this as you get what you pay for. That said between it and the $300 Craftsman jack I have honestly the Harbor Freight one is better. Smaller, lighter and the Craftsman one's front big wheel jammed pretty early on and I can't get it to roll any longer.
Thanks. Have you used this without a hockey puck or other pad? Would love it if the pad on the jack is good enough not to damage the car.
Personally I always use a hockey puck as even with the rubber pad on my HF jack is too thin to really protect the smooth bottom of the car. Actually what I did was cut a hockey puck in have horizontally to make it thinner. Was easier than I expected and works great.
I have it installed on my Arcan aluminum jack and it's a perfect setup for the Lotus - jack is a bit heavy to lug around though. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00132CGEW
Yes I know this is an old thread so by now I hope you enjoyed your first event. I still remember mine and the smile has lasted 20 years and 200 plus days later still shows up every time.
Traveling with a jack or tool box: Passenger footwell seems obvious but is a horrible idea for piles of 40 lb steel boxes. Thinking about that bouncing around in the cabin with me if things went wrong on the way to and back from the track:facepalm. Trunk is a better option but be carefull not to bash the fiberglass on the way in and out. Also jacks have wheels and like to roll around in the trunk and yours has super expensive fiberglass walls. Pack your jack and tools tightly, rounded edge plastic boxes if you can make them fit. AND MAKE SURE EVERYTHING COMES OUT OF THE TRUNK AT THE TRACK. Your loose wrench will crack your rear clam. $X,000 repair from a $30 wrench is just wrong.
Lug Bolts: These cars use four bolt hubs, these don't stay torqued quite as well as 5 bolt hubs. Make sure you retorque before each run group. Most check air when they come off the track and tires are hot don't retorque on this trip around the car, let them cool. Retorque before you go out for next run.
Checking Tire Pressure: Checking after right after a run hot tells you how balanced the car and your driving is. This statement is a bit comical because the time it takes to get out of a Lotus kind of disqualifies you for "right after"
Adjusting Tire Pressure: Best done before your run and in .5 lb or 1.0 lb increments. You are looking for a "hot target" when you get off the track (step above). Talk to others that run your tire model for what works for them. Keep in mind different tires are designed to work at different temps. Particulary true if are running a street all-season and your buddy has track compound. [A/S tend to need more air to keep themselves behaving and run hotter, where as race compound tend to start lower and get super greasy when they get too hot.]
Tire and Tool Trailer: A few days on the track you might start to want more stuff with you and the Elise does a great job pulling a small 48"x 42" Harbor Freight trailer (opt for the 12" wheel model). I have designed three of these and they work great. If anyone considers a I build I can give you some tips.
That's all for now I have to go get a car ready for the track!
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