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Old 06-25-2007, 12:55 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Question Auxiliary belt... what does it do?

Guys,

I'm told I need a new aux. belt and tensioner. It's a fair bit o'coin for a belt and tensioner so I'm wondering what that belt drives other than the AC. Has anyone simply removed it along with the tensioner? I think I have used my AC three times in two years so unless there are other considerations it seems like a reasonable idea to simply get rid of the tensioner if it is going to have habit of going bad. Opinions invited.

tia,
crash

Last edited by Crash : 06-25-2007 at 01:03 PM.
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Old 06-25-2007, 01:03 PM   #2 (permalink)
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it's not a warranty item?
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Old 06-25-2007, 01:04 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ace10
it's not a warranty item?
I'm well out of the warranty.
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Old 06-25-2007, 01:04 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Many times the belt drives the AC and the internal water pump for the Engine
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Old 06-25-2007, 01:07 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Crash
I'm well out of the warranty.
ah. gotcha. i saw the two years of ownership and assumed less than 36K miles.

of you mechanically inclined? perhaps source the parts (at least the tensioner) directly from toyota? i must say that looking up there, it is a tight squeeze. this isn't an "engine out" sort of thing is it?
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Old 06-25-2007, 01:33 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ace10
this isn't an "engine out" sort of thing is it?
No, but you'd probably want a rack. I have access to a rack but the service guys I see are very helpful and easier than arranging some side work with a buddy of mine. I do hook up with my buddy for the simple but time consuming jobs though as the labor can really kill you at the dealer.
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Old 06-25-2007, 01:46 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Here's the explanation of the belt and ancillaries from the manual.

A single multi-rib serpentine type belt is used to transmit drive from the crankshaft to the water pump, alternator and a.c. compressor, with a slave pulley fitted in place of the power steering pump used in other applications. A hydraulically damped, spring loaded tensioner arm applies tension to the back of the belt, and is maintenance free. The belt itself should be inspected for condition at each service interval, and if it exhibits any evidence of physical damage, cracking, fraying, perishing, abrasion or contamination, it should be replaced. In the case of oil or coolant contamination, the cause must be identified and rectified, and each of the pulleys must be thoroughly degreased before the new belt is fitted.

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Old 06-25-2007, 01:57 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jkolb
Here's the explanation of the belt and ancillaries from the manual.

A single multi-rib serpentine type belt is used to transmit drive from the crankshaft to the water pump, alternator and a.c. compressor, with a slave pulley fitted in place of the power steering pump used in other applications. A hydraulically damped, spring loaded tensioner arm applies tension to the back of the belt, and is maintenance free. The belt itself should be inspected for condition at each service interval, and if it exhibits any evidence of physical damage, cracking, fraying, perishing, abrasion or contamination, it should be replaced. In the case of oil or coolant contamination, the cause must be identified and rectified, and each of the pulleys must be thoroughly degreased before the new belt is fitted.

Jerry
I really need to download the shop manual.

My "maintenance free" tensioner is making a real racket apparently. The quintessential squeaky wheel. I wonder how much of the job is labor and how hard it is to "diy" it. Or, I could turn up the radio. Has anyone else heard of the tensioner going south on them?
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Old 06-25-2007, 02:23 PM   #9 (permalink)
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The auxiliary belt drives the auxilariary items. Duh.

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Old 06-25-2007, 08:58 PM   #10 (permalink)
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That's helpful, thanks.

My experience with car engines is limited. It seemed logical to me that aux belts drove aux systems like an AC and primary systems were driven by another belt like the water pump and alternator. I just learned that the elise has only one belt so it drives everything. So again Etalk proves how valuable it is to non-mechanics and beginners looking for information. Thankfully, there are people that provide more input than xtn.

hasta
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Old 06-26-2007, 06:35 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Crash
That's helpful, thanks.

My experience with car engines is limited. It seemed logical to me that aux belts drove aux systems like an AC and primary systems were driven by another belt like the water pump and alternator. I just learned that the elise has only one belt so it drives everything. So again Etalk proves how valuable it is to non-mechanics and beginners looking for information. Thankfully, there are people that provide more input than xtn.

hasta
Wasn't intentionally being unhelpful. Just figured your question was already answered so it would be okay to make the dumb joke.
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Old 06-26-2007, 07:16 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Could one install one on the side of the road like every other vehicle I have owned?
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Old 06-26-2007, 07:23 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by evilfij
Could one install one on the side of the road like every other vehicle I have owned?
only if you were a wonder twin... the one who had the power to take the shape of liquid. i i swear, i can't even get my hand up there to feed the belt around the pulleys.
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Old 06-26-2007, 07:55 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Don't know if this will help, but here are the diagrams of the belt from the Shop and Parts Manuals.

One page is WITHOUT the A/C compressor shown, the other shows the whole system. Parts List also attached.

Good Luck!

Regards,
Wayne
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File Type: pdf belts.pdf (123.7 KB, 94 views)
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Old 06-26-2007, 09:54 AM   #15 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xtn
Wasn't intentionally being unhelpful. Just figured your question was already answered so it would be okay to make the dumb joke.
Oh hey no problem. I'm the first to admit I have tons to learn but I'm trying. I take a lot of flak for it for some reason. I know there are a lot of others like me. Etalk is a great place for us. It may have been a dumb question because I just didn't know.

Thanks for the post Waydui. I've printed it and it helps.

have a good one,
crash
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Old 09-19-2007, 08:02 PM   #16 (permalink)
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so what did you end up doing? the tensioner is easy to take off.. I think its possible without taking off the wheel or undertray..

the easiest way is to..

-drive car on ramps
-pull undertray
-remove belt
-lift passenger side up
-remove passenger side wheel/liner
-2 10mm (I believe) and there's great access
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Old 09-20-2007, 10:08 AM   #17 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by choi0706 View Post
so what did you end up doing? the tensioner is easy to take off.. I think its possible without taking off the wheel or undertray..

the easiest way is to..

-drive car on ramps
-pull undertray
-remove belt
-lift passenger side up
-remove passenger side wheel/liner
-2 10mm (I believe) and there's great access
Well, I had my tensioner replaced under warranty, and the mechanic (a good one) swore he never wanted to do another one. He had to loosen the motor mounts in order to get enough clearance to remove the tensioner. It's not so hard to reach the bolts, but there's not much clearance for removing the tensioner itself. By the way, the reason I had it replaced was that the water temp would increase a lower engine speeds. With a good tensioner, the water temp should stay at 186 - 188 F regardless of engine speed (in normal weather, at least). I didn't want to deal with a bum tensioner on my own when the car goes off warranty this Nov.
Jim
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Old 09-20-2007, 10:13 AM   #18 (permalink)
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did he replace the cylinder only or the whole thing.. the cylinder is not hard to remove.. I've never pulled the whole assembly off.. cause anyone whose replaced the header has taken off the cylinder..
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Old 09-20-2007, 10:31 AM   #19 (permalink)
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did he replace the cylinder only or the whole thing.. the cylinder is not hard to remove.. I've never pulled the whole assembly off.. cause anyone whose replaced the header has taken off the cylinder..
You can get the header off without removing it. I cut the air pipe, but better yet unscrew the header studs from the head: http://209.59.172.12/forums/showthread.php?t=28408
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Old 09-20-2007, 11:58 AM   #20 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by fpitas View Post
You can get the header off without removing it. I cut the air pipe, but better yet unscrew the header studs from the head: http://209.59.172.12/forums/showthread.php?t=28408

Yes it's easier that way, but if you want to keep the pipe the cylinder is not that hard to take off..
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