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Old 09-14-2009, 09:40 AM   #1 (permalink)
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A/C Compressor not turning on?

Hello all

I recently did some of the viper a/c mods to improve cabin air flow, but after doing it I realized the compressor doesnt seem to be cycling. I checked the flow door over the heater core and that seems to function. I checked both the C4 and F19 fuses and they appear to be intact. Its there anything else I need to check (relays, switches, etc) before I attempt to access the compressor itself? Im handy but havent worked on many cars so very simplified instructions are very helpful. Also while im asking the recirc switch doesnt light up anymore, even though I have taped off the front intakes I would still like everything to work...are any of the other switch buttons in the car interchangeable to this one so I can test that out?

Thanks,
Brett
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Old 09-17-2009, 05:43 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Well no one responded which is unusual for this board, but for those who read my post, I was just low on refrigerant. Filled it up and it came right to life.

I am still unsure what is wrong with the recirculation. I have removed the switch and tested it and it is functioning. My fan speeds all work correctly so it doesnt seem that it is the resistor pack, not that it is in the same circuit anyway. Could anyone possibly lead me in the proper direction on what to check next?

Thanks,
Brett
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Old 09-17-2009, 06:20 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Brett,
Sorry, I didn't see your post before. As you have taped over the front air intakes, the recirculation switch is redundant & does nothing, simply ignore it.
Michael
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Well no one responded which is unusual for this board, but for those who read my post, I was just low on refrigerant. Filled it up and it came right to life.

I am still unsure what is wrong with the recirculation. I have removed the switch and tested it and it is functioning. My fan speeds all work correctly so it doesnt seem that it is the resistor pack, not that it is in the same circuit anyway. Could anyone possibly lead me in the proper direction on what to check next?

Thanks,
Brett
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Old 09-17-2009, 06:32 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Viper,
Thanks...I know its obsolete but im one of those guys that likes everything to work also. I am unfortunelty getting ready to trade or sell the car so I want to get it right before I offer it to anyone. Any help is greatly appreciated.

Thanks again!
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Old 09-17-2009, 06:41 PM   #5 (permalink)
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If the indicator light is not working it can indicate a few of things;
1) The LED is inoperative
2) There is no signal from the Switch Pack Module, but then many other lights would not work either
3) Bad connection at SPM or switch
Michael
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Viper,
Thanks...I know its obsolete but im one of those guys that likes everything to work also. I am unfortunelty getting ready to trade or sell the car so I want to get it right before I offer it to anyone. Any help is greatly appreciated.

Thanks again!
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Old 09-17-2009, 07:23 PM   #6 (permalink)
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The button itself works as I hooked it up to the headlight circuit and it turned on the lights and the led lit up. The connecton at the switch seems to be ok. Where is the Switch pack module so I may check the connection there?
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Old 09-17-2009, 08:05 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Here it is, that big light colored box.

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The button itself works as I hooked it up to the headlight circuit and it turned on the lights and the led lit up. The connecton at the switch seems to be ok. Where is the Switch pack module so I may check the connection there?
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Old 09-18-2009, 09:17 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Well I removed my gauge cluster. I see a black box behind the cluster but my dash is significantly different than yours. I see two screws that might allow me access to this box. I am posting pictures to confirm this is the box I need to check. Also is it ok to remove the wires to the gauge cluster without messing up anything?
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Old 09-18-2009, 09:21 AM   #9 (permalink)
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here are the pics
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Old 09-18-2009, 09:42 AM   #10 (permalink)
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It is difficult to see your photos as they are so large, for future reference you need to re size them to 800 wide. The SPM in my photo only looks white because of the light, it is actually black. It has a large plug that covers the whole width.
I see no reason why you could not remove the instrument cluster connector, however I have never done it.
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Old 09-22-2009, 02:10 PM   #11 (permalink)
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I pulled the switch pack and the connectors are firmly seated. Could you direct me to the correct wires to check for the recirc circuit.

Thanks for your help and your patience.
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Old 09-22-2009, 02:11 PM   #12 (permalink)
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It is the solid blue wire that is the recirc. light. Turn on your side lights and see if you have 12V at that Blue wire terminal.
Michael
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Old 09-22-2009, 03:04 PM   #13 (permalink)
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If I am doing it correctly the reading is 5.7 volts. I tested at the spm end and the switch end of the blue wire got roughly the same reading at both ends.
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Old 09-22-2009, 03:16 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Seems like a SPM issue
There is a splice within the SPM that feeds the side lights, headlight indicator light, AC indicator light & instrument lights as well as the Recirc light. If all the others are ok, seems like a SPM issue to me.
Michael
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If I am doing it correctly the reading is 5.7 volts. I tested at the spm end and the switch end of the blue wire got roughly the same reading at both ends.
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Old 09-22-2009, 03:37 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Is there anything else to check...such as the item the switch controls...if that item is bad then it might not be sending the right signal back to the spm to switch the light on?
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Old 09-22-2009, 03:41 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Simply turning on the sidelight switch sends power to those items I mentioned. If you are only getting 5.7V I can only conclude it is a SPM issue. You tested the switch in another application and the light worked.
Michael
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Old 09-23-2009, 09:34 AM   #17 (permalink)
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I opened up the spm, Im not an electronics repair guy but the board looks fairly simple. Would it be safe to assume the switch relay is one of the
HG4117 units. I have a friend the works for a aerospace contractor and does alot of circuit board work, just wondering if that relay could be more easily replaced than trying to get another spm.
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