Check your toe link! - Page 4 - LotusTalk

MattG · 10-22-2007, 08:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rfelise

What is the part number of the washer?

TIA

I don't know, but try emailing Sector111, they would either be able to sell you some, or would give you the P/N.

mikelr · 10-22-2007, 10:18 AM

Mcmaster sells them,

http://www.mcmaster.com/

Just type in Nord Lock into the search feature.

More than likely this P/N will do 91074A131

Shawn C · 10-24-2007, 06:29 AM

Torqued mine to 50lbs instead of 44, should be ok right?

davecarama · 10-24-2007, 06:32 AM

Hey Mikelr,

What is the size needed? Is that indeed the part number? I would hate to buy a 25 pack and get the wrong thing.

Dave

mikelr · 10-24-2007, 10:57 AM

The inner toe link shaft is an M10, that P/N is correct.

TimMullen · 10-25-2007, 02:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mike325ci

FYI, the lotus service manual that i had downloaded from lotus around august of 2007 shows the updated 60 Nm torque specification for this bolt.

mine were below that when i went to torque them for the first time (had to turn the bolt about 180 degrees more to reach 60 Nm). kinda scary considering i have just over 1400 miles on my car so far. will have to check often to see if they work themselves loose again.

Mike,

Would it be possible for you to post that page of the manual so that others might update their manual? Or maybe just a photo of it...

philou300 · 11-16-2007, 11:25 AM

Hello I have just bought the kit Teo-link of " elects parts " for one elects s2 I have to remove 2 flat capital here is photos in .........

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Toad · 01-09-2008, 12:52 PM

My heim joint bolt is a bit loose after ~4 track days (1st gen Lotus Track Brace)..any updated findings with fitted nordlocks?

ace10 · 01-09-2008, 01:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Toad

My heim joint bolt is a bit loose after ~4 track days (1st gen Lotus Track Brace)..any updated findings with fitted nordlocks?

let's hope everyone continues to check them. i've got them as part of the S111 delta brace and not had them back off at all... maybe 25 track days.

cruzin2 · 01-10-2008, 09:12 PM

Just an FYI. From a suspension engineer stand point, you need to watch the open end wrench on the hex close to the boot. It is easy to tear those things and then you're done. (contamination is the enemy to ball joint ends) At the factory (not Lotus but other OEM's), we use what we call "hold and drive" guns that drive the nut and "hold" the ball joint stud with the inner hex on the stud. If my experience we have seen allot of parts in service centers because a dealer services this link and is not careful to watch the boot to wrench clearance. Just trying to share info.

cruzin2 · 01-10-2008, 09:27 PM

Lot of comments in this post comparing clampload to torque. Torque is the necessary work needed to turn the nut or bolt where clampload is how "squeezed" the joint is. Many things can affect this. Thread pitch as was mentioned but also coating type of the bolt and nut, bolt / nut hardness, and stiffness of clampload area are factors in how much torque one gets in a joint for a given torque. I would recommend that you maintain the factory clampload specification +/- 10% as this is the general accuracy of the factory. If you see the joint loosing more than once there may be other issues at work that may need to be discussed. Different fastener options with different specs, or perhaps looking at replacing the factory link and tightening the link with an update torque to the higher end of the spec. Hope this helps. Lots more useless knowledge where this came from.

Cheers.

NVM

redguitar · 07-13-2008, 02:00 AM

Could someone please clarify whether you should FIRST loosen and THEN torque a nut? My Husky torque wrench instructions say to always loosen first.

Thanks for the help.

MikeW · 07-13-2008, 07:32 PM

Yes, you should loosen and then retorque. It's important not to stop tightening as you near the last several pounds. If you simply try to retorque a fastener in its static state, you have to overcome static friction, also known as breakaway torque. You wil be fooling yourself. You probably need to back off 1/4 turn and tighten in a continuous movement until you hit the torque or hear the click.

exarkun1178 · 07-14-2008, 05:43 AM

did mine yesterday, a good 180 turn to the right tq. glade i looked.

redguitar · 07-14-2008, 11:01 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MikeW

Yes, you should loosen and then retorque. It's important not to stop tightening as you near the last several pounds. If you simply try to retorque a fastener in its static state, you have to overcome static friction, also known as breakaway torque. You wil be fooling yourself. You probably need to back off 1/4 turn and tighten in a continuous movement until you hit the torque or hear the click.

Thanks for the info, will do!

apk919 · 07-26-2008, 09:21 PM

Checked mine today while changing brake pads... 9,500 miles (car was at the dealer for service at 7,000) and one side was around 25 nm, the other 35 nm. Both 60 nm now...

Mr.C · 07-27-2008, 12:01 AM

When I torqued mine to 60Nm I also put a dab of Torque Seal on the nut.
I still check the torque when I have the undertray off, but this way I can at least do a quick visual inspection every now and then to see if the nut is moving.

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Rubas · 08-06-2008, 05:14 AM

Don't forget to check your toe links, mates!

The picture was taken this sunday on the Nordschleife. Result: 360° spin but without an impact ... lucky guy!

fpitas · 08-06-2008, 05:20 AM

Check your ball joint torques, too. Several people have found them completely loose or (in my case) nowhere near the right torque.

apk919 · 08-06-2008, 06:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rubas

Don't forget to check your toe links, mates!

The picture was taken this sunday on the Nordschleife. Result: 360° spin but without an impact ... lucky guy!

Wow, great photo... toe link failure in progress. Who'd think you'd have excessive oversteer with 20° rear toe out?

10-22-2007, 10:18 AM	#62 (permalink)
mikelr <[^,^]> Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Newburgh, New York Posts: 642	Mcmaster sells them, http://www.mcmaster.com/ Just type in Nord Lock into the search feature. More than likely this P/N will do 91074A131 __________________ 00' S1 Exige (7.14lbs/hp) 94' S4 Esprit 07' Ram Quad cab 3500 hauler

10-24-2007, 06:29 AM	#63 (permalink)
Shawn C Registered User Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Florida Posts: 1,326	Torqued mine to 50lbs instead of 44, should be ok right? __________________ 06 Exige Ph Black/Black, 2bular 7", Von Hep Rear Panel delete, Green Filter, Snorkel delete, Xenons, Scroth belts, Carbon Rear view mirror, Binnacle, Console, Cup Roof and Rear Diffuser. Sector Extinguisher, Nitron Singles, Sector Rotors, R4's, BWR front Sway Bar, Weapon R Header and De-Cat, BWR Super Charger PCA, PBOC, Chin DE Instructor.

10-24-2007, 06:32 AM	#64 (permalink)
davecarama Driving it every day! Join Date: Jun 2006 Posts: 628	Hey Mikelr, What is the size needed? Is that indeed the part number? I would hate to buy a 25 pack and get the wrong thing. Dave __________________ Vision without execution is a hallucination.

10-24-2007, 10:57 AM	#65 (permalink)
mikelr <[^,^]> Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Newburgh, New York Posts: 642	The inner toe link shaft is an M10, that P/N is correct. __________________ 00' S1 Exige (7.14lbs/hp) 94' S4 Esprit 07' Ram Quad cab 3500 hauler

11-16-2007, 11:25 AM	#67 (permalink)
philou300 Registered User Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: France montpellier Posts: 72 Images: 1	Hello I have just bought the kit Teo-link of " elects parts " for one elects s2 I have to remove 2 flat capital here is photos in ......... 2Fimg162.imageshack.us%2Fimg162%2F8498%2F87016044j h0.jpg][/url] __________________ http://img229.imageshack.us/img229/4...ztsmvvjyi9.jpg http://k20a.free.fr/ It is a Race Tech (736 kg) 1622 lb version in a color rare tres lava Orange Nacré

01-09-2008, 12:52 PM	#68 (permalink)
Toad A lot of stickers! Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: 30 miles due east, take a right Posts: 1,602 Images: 9	My heim joint bolt is a bit loose after ~4 track days (1st gen Lotus Track Brace)..any updated findings with fitted nordlocks? __________________ Jeff Formerly known as brgm100 1991 Lotus M100 Elan 2005 Lotus Elise 2008 Saturn Astra XR 3 door 5 Speed

01-10-2008, 09:12 PM	#70 (permalink)
cruzin2 Registered User Join Date: Apr 2007 Posts: 11	watch those boots Just an FYI. From a suspension engineer stand point, you need to watch the open end wrench on the hex close to the boot. It is easy to tear those things and then you're done. (contamination is the enemy to ball joint ends) At the factory (not Lotus but other OEM's), we use what we call "hold and drive" guns that drive the nut and "hold" the ball joint stud with the inner hex on the stud. If my experience we have seen allot of parts in service centers because a dealer services this link and is not careful to watch the boot to wrench clearance. Just trying to share info. __________________ Past vehicles: 2002 C-Prepared SCCA Solo II Chevy S10 truck , 1998 Ram Air WS6 Trans Am Current vehicles: 2002 corvette with lots of mods., 2009 e-class 350, 2005 Saab 9-2x Aero Future vehicles: A lotus for track days either an exige or exige s.

01-10-2008, 09:27 PM	#71 (permalink)
cruzin2 Registered User Join Date: Apr 2007 Posts: 11	comments about torque vs. clampload Lot of comments in this post comparing clampload to torque. Torque is the necessary work needed to turn the nut or bolt where clampload is how "squeezed" the joint is. Many things can affect this. Thread pitch as was mentioned but also coating type of the bolt and nut, bolt / nut hardness, and stiffness of clampload area are factors in how much torque one gets in a joint for a given torque. I would recommend that you maintain the factory clampload specification +/- 10% as this is the general accuracy of the factory. If you see the joint loosing more than once there may be other issues at work that may need to be discussed. Different fastener options with different specs, or perhaps looking at replacing the factory link and tightening the link with an update torque to the higher end of the spec. Hope this helps. Lots more useless knowledge where this came from. Cheers. NVM __________________ Past vehicles: 2002 C-Prepared SCCA Solo II Chevy S10 truck , 1998 Ram Air WS6 Trans Am Current vehicles: 2002 corvette with lots of mods., 2009 e-class 350, 2005 Saab 9-2x Aero Future vehicles: A lotus for track days either an exige or exige s.

07-13-2008, 02:00 AM	#72 (permalink)
redguitar Registered User Join Date: Feb 2008 Posts: 43	Could someone please clarify whether you should FIRST loosen and THEN torque a nut? My Husky torque wrench instructions say to always loosen first. Thanks for the help.

07-13-2008, 07:32 PM	#73 (permalink)
MikeW Registered User Join Date: Feb 2006 Posts: 1,372	Yes, you should loosen and then retorque. It's important not to stop tightening as you near the last several pounds. If you simply try to retorque a fastener in its static state, you have to overcome static friction, also known as breakaway torque. You wil be fooling yourself. You probably need to back off 1/4 turn and tighten in a continuous movement until you hit the torque or hear the click.

07-14-2008, 05:43 AM	#74 (permalink)
exarkun1178 Registered User Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Point Pleasant Beach, NJ Posts: 3,624	did mine yesterday, a good 180 turn to the right tq. glade i looked.

07-26-2008, 09:21 PM	#76 (permalink)
apk919 No Acceptable Substitutes Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: NYC & SD Posts: 2,880	Checked mine today while changing brake pads... 9,500 miles (car was at the dealer for service at 7,000) and one side was around 25 nm, the other 35 nm. Both 60 nm now... __________________ 2007 AW Lotus Exige S. Opts: Track Pack, Touring Pack, LSD Mods: Multivex mirrors, JLAudio 525/Stealthbox/Focal 130 spkrs, Alpine PDX-5 Amp, Sector111 F&R Tow Hook, Fire Ext, HID Kit, Bootie and Bling, Lotus leather/alcantara interior, Braille Battery, LED Parking/Dome/License Lights, Bane's stealth bulbs, alex's 1/4 turn kit, Stan's shifter mod, jim-c's spkr rings, codymac's 1/4 turn kit, Lotus Cup roof w/fettled clam, Schroth 6pt harness, RAC's & R888's, ChaseCam

07-27-2008, 12:01 AM	#77 (permalink)
Mr.C German Import Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Portland, Oregon Posts: 538	When I torqued mine to 60Nm I also put a dab of Torque Seal on the nut. I still check the torque when I have the undertray off, but this way I can at least do a quick visual inspection every now and then to see if the nut is moving. __________________ If I die, my biggest fear is that my wife sells all my toys for the price I told her I bought them for...

08-06-2008, 05:14 AM	#78 (permalink)
Rubas Registered User Join Date: Nov 2007 Posts: 1	Don't forget to check your toe links, mates! The picture was taken this sunday on the Nordschleife. Result: 360° spin but without an impact ... lucky guy!

08-06-2008, 05:20 AM	#79 (permalink)
fpitas User, Registered Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Leesburg, VA Posts: 1,358	Check your ball joint torques, too. Several people have found them completely loose or (in my case) nowhere near the right torque. __________________ Francis 2006 Chrome Orange Elise: Base, Hardtop, LSD/TC, FF Engine Damper, Arqray Twin Muffler, Nitron SAs with 525/650 springs, Katana Supercharger, Smaay's fuel rail, Saikou Michi dual catch can, Eliseparts bumpsteer kit, BWR 7/8" Front Bar 2000 Black Integra Type R: Konis, Neuspeed Race Springs, Mugen 26mm Rear Bar, 16x8 SSR Integrals

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