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Old 03-22-2007, 12:15 PM   #1 (permalink)
El Jefe - Agent 111
 
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Elise/Exige Fasteners to check periodically

This thread is to detail the fasteners you should be checking, or have your mechanic check. The Elise, like any track car, should be checked periodically. Some fasteners may be fine for many thousand miles. Some, should be checked much more often. Some are safety, some are a nuisance issue. Some will depend if you track the car. Please add your findings to this thread. I will eventually make a table of all the suggestions.


Fastener---------------Tool--------------- Interval-------------------Note
Carpet Bolts Hand or a wide flat screw driver Monthly
Lid Latch Cap Screws ?mm Allen Key 10k Miles
Rear Toe Link Brace
Wheel Well Liners
Rear Diffuser (Main) Bolts
Rear Diffuser 8mm Bolts
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Old 03-22-2007, 12:17 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Carpet bolts. Those plastic things, two per, that hold down the carpeting (if you have it).

These can and will work loose in a quick time and will fly under the seats to be lost forever. I think the action of a passenger stepping on them getting in and out and moving their feet can loosen them. I recommend checking these every couple weeks. Simple to do from the driver's seat or when you gas up the car.
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We have been feeling the buzz since 2002

2006 Noble M400. Getrag tranny, Quaiffe LSD, Hinged clams. Duratec dual turbo V6. Hoosier 315-18 tires. 2350 pounds. 0-60mph in 2.9 seconds.

..is a stranger in an open car. Tempt you in and drive you far away
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Old 03-22-2007, 12:18 PM   #3 (permalink)
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The cap screws that hold in the latching mechanism to the rear lid. A sign you are coming loose is when the lid does not latch when you close it. The latching mechanism itself is moving up.

Use an allen wrench to tighten this up. Check every 10k miles?
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We have been feeling the buzz since 2002

2006 Noble M400. Getrag tranny, Quaiffe LSD, Hinged clams. Duratec dual turbo V6. Hoosier 315-18 tires. 2350 pounds. 0-60mph in 2.9 seconds.

..is a stranger in an open car. Tempt you in and drive you far away
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Old 03-22-2007, 12:21 PM   #4 (permalink)
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The rear toe link bolts! If you are not running an upgrade you should check them before every event and at a minimum install the nord lock washers from S111. They are extremely cheap insurance.
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Old 03-22-2007, 12:29 PM   #5 (permalink)
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The Phillips screw on the handle side of the door, at the top of the runner, just beneath the seal. This is usually the culprit for a window that won't close all the way, and will eventually work its way loose. Here's a pic originally posted by Steve W:
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Old 03-22-2007, 12:38 PM   #6 (permalink)
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* Main and 8mm bolts on the Engine Access cover - 8mm and ??? - 5k. Especially if you don't do your own oil (which you should).

* 8 bolts (4 on either side) that hold the exhaust up - 8mm Socket - 10k. They mount through thick rubber grommets, and you'll be unhappy when they loosen up and your exhaust starts making out with your diffuser.

I would like to see some torque spec numbers in this sticky, especially for those important suspension parts. Anyone have them?
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Old 03-22-2007, 12:40 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IBCJ
I would like to see some torque spec numbers in this sticky, especially for those important suspension parts. Anyone have them?
Agreed. We can add those.

At this point with some of us over 30k miles, we have learned what bolts work loose... and we have learned where to use loctite too. I will add loctite in the notes to the main post.
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Old 03-22-2007, 12:49 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Recommendations should include torque values where applicable.

Thanks,
xtn
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Old 03-22-2007, 12:51 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IBCJ
I would like to see some torque spec numbers in this sticky, especially for those important suspension parts. Anyone have them?
.
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Old 03-22-2007, 01:10 PM   #10 (permalink)
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My car has all those things?

Where did those come from (be specific you)?

I never thought I'd say this, but here goes:

"Thank you Alan."
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Old 03-25-2007, 02:54 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Good stuff!

Does anyone have the conversion? nm = lbs? and inch lbs?

Thanks!
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Old 03-25-2007, 07:49 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Elise/Exige Fasteners to check periodically

Uh... all of 'em?

xtn
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Old 03-26-2007, 08:10 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MyElise
1 Lb-Ft = 1.35582 Nm
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Old 03-26-2007, 09:20 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xtn
Elise/Exige Fasteners to check periodically

Uh... all of 'em?

xtn

I can't imagine the average person checking all the engine bolts periodically. I know I won't.
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We have been feeling the buzz since 2002

2006 Noble M400. Getrag tranny, Quaiffe LSD, Hinged clams. Duratec dual turbo V6. Hoosier 315-18 tires. 2350 pounds. 0-60mph in 2.9 seconds.

..is a stranger in an open car. Tempt you in and drive you far away
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Old 03-27-2007, 04:37 AM   #15 (permalink)
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If you keep the car long enough you will....
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Old 03-27-2007, 08:31 AM   #16 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xtn
If you keep the car long enough you will....
Fortunately, engine bolts were tightened in Japan, not Norfolk. No need to even think about them.

Edit: except for the engine mounting bolts. The 2zz is more likely to fall out of the car than it is to fall apart.
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Old 03-27-2007, 12:19 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Funny you mention that...

On sunday I was helping a couple of friends do tech inspections and brake/clutch fluid bleeds. One of the things we looked at while the belly pan was off is, you guessed it already didn't you?, the engine mount bolts.

xtn
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Old 03-29-2007, 11:34 PM   #18 (permalink)
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check every plastic bit in the fender well liners periodically.
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Old 05-23-2007, 11:18 AM   #19 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Serebo1
The Phillips screw on the handle side of the door, at the top of the runner, just beneath the seal. This is usually the culprit for a window that won't close all the way, and will eventually work its way loose. Here's a pic originally posted by Steve W:
Hey thats a pozi-drive screw and will strip if you use a philips screwdriver on it.
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Old 06-05-2007, 07:03 PM   #20 (permalink)
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At a recent track event, the exhaust system suddenly broke. We determined that the motor was rotating because, of the two bolts which secure the engine/trans to the rear lower motor mount, one was backed out half way and one was gone entirely. We replaced the bolts and I ran the rest of the weekend. When I took the car to the dealer to order the new exhaust, the tech noticed that both of the bolts from the front lower mount were also missing. In other words, 3 of the 4 bolts were gone and and the 4th was half way out. It is impossible to check these bolts unless you are specifically looking for them - they go into the motor or trans itself.
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