Elise/Exige Fasteners to check periodically - LotusTalk

Randy Chase · 03-22-2007, 12:15 PM

This thread is to detail the fasteners you should be checking, or have your mechanic check. The Elise, like any track car, should be checked periodically. Some fasteners may be fine for many thousand miles. Some, should be checked much more often. Some are safety, some are a nuisance issue. Some will depend if you track the car. Please add your findings to this thread. I will eventually make a table of all the suggestions.

Fastener---------------Tool--------------- Interval-------------------Note
Carpet Bolts Hand or a wide flat screw driver Monthly
Lid Latch Cap Screws ?mm Allen Key 10k Miles
Rear Toe Link Brace
Wheel Well Liners
Rear Diffuser (Main) Bolts
Rear Diffuser 8mm Bolts

Randy Chase · 03-22-2007, 12:17 PM

Carpet bolts. Those plastic things, two per, that hold down the carpeting (if you have it).

These can and will work loose in a quick time and will fly under the seats to be lost forever. I think the action of a passenger stepping on them getting in and out and moving their feet can loosen them. I recommend checking these every couple weeks. Simple to do from the driver's seat or when you gas up the car.

Randy Chase · 03-22-2007, 12:18 PM

The cap screws that hold in the latching mechanism to the rear lid. A sign you are coming loose is when the lid does not latch when you close it. The latching mechanism itself is moving up.

Use an allen wrench to tighten this up. Check every 10k miles?

lancer360 · 03-22-2007, 12:21 PM

The rear toe link bolts! If you are not running an upgrade you should check them before every event and at a minimum install the nord lock washers from S111. They are extremely cheap insurance.

Serebo1 · 03-22-2007, 12:29 PM

The Phillips screw on the handle side of the door, at the top of the runner, just beneath the seal. This is usually the culprit for a window that won't close all the way, and will eventually work its way loose. Here's a pic originally posted by Steve W:

IBCJ · 03-22-2007, 12:38 PM

* Main and 8mm bolts on the Engine Access cover - 8mm and ??? - 5k. Especially if you don't do your own oil (which you should).

* 8 bolts (4 on either side) that hold the exhaust up - 8mm Socket - 10k. They mount through thick rubber grommets, and you'll be unhappy when they loosen up and your exhaust starts making out with your diffuser.

I would like to see some torque spec numbers in this sticky, especially for those important suspension parts. Anyone have them?

Randy Chase · 03-22-2007, 12:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by IBCJ

I would like to see some torque spec numbers in this sticky, especially for those important suspension parts. Anyone have them?

Agreed. We can add those.

At this point with some of us over 30k miles, we have learned what bolts work loose... and we have learned where to use loctite too. I will add loctite in the notes to the main post.

xtn · 03-22-2007, 12:49 PM

Recommendations should include torque values where applicable.

Thanks,
xtn

Serebo1 · 03-22-2007, 12:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by IBCJ

I would like to see some torque spec numbers in this sticky, especially for those important suspension parts. Anyone have them?

.

IBCJ · 03-22-2007, 01:10 PM

My car has all those things?

Where did those come from (be specific you)?

I never thought I'd say this, but here goes:

"Thank you Alan."

Ol'Racer · 03-25-2007, 02:54 PM

Good stuff!

Does anyone have the conversion? nm = lbs? and inch lbs?

Thanks!

xtn · 03-25-2007, 07:49 PM

Elise/Exige Fasteners to check periodically

Uh... all of 'em?

xtn

Ol'Racer · 03-26-2007, 08:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MyElise

1 Lb-Ft = 1.35582 Nm

Randy Chase · 03-26-2007, 09:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by xtn

Elise/Exige Fasteners to check periodically

Uh... all of 'em?

xtn

I can't imagine the average person checking all the engine bolts periodically. I know I won't.

xtn · 03-27-2007, 04:37 AM

If you keep the car long enough you will....

Taxcheat · 03-27-2007, 08:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by xtn

If you keep the car long enough you will....

Fortunately, engine bolts were tightened in Japan, not Norfolk. No need to even think about them.

Edit: except for the engine mounting bolts. The 2zz is more likely to fall out of the car than it is to fall apart.

xtn · 03-27-2007, 12:19 PM

Funny you mention that...

On sunday I was helping a couple of friends do tech inspections and brake/clutch fluid bleeds. One of the things we looked at while the belly pan was off is, you guessed it already didn't you?, the engine mount bolts.

xtn

Dietrich · 03-29-2007, 11:34 PM

check every plastic bit in the fender well liners periodically.

buzzy · 05-23-2007, 11:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Serebo1

The Phillips screw on the handle side of the door, at the top of the runner, just beneath the seal. This is usually the culprit for a window that won't close all the way, and will eventually work its way loose. Here's a pic originally posted by Steve W:

Hey thats a pozi-drive screw and will strip if you use a philips screwdriver on it.

Terry · 06-05-2007, 07:03 PM

At a recent track event, the exhaust system suddenly broke. We determined that the motor was rotating because, of the two bolts which secure the engine/trans to the rear lower motor mount, one was backed out half way and one was gone entirely. We replaced the bolts and I ran the rest of the weekend. When I took the car to the dealer to order the new exhaust, the tech noticed that both of the bolts from the front lower mount were also missing. In other words, 3 of the 4 bolts were gone and and the 4th was half way out. It is impossible to check these bolts unless you are specifically looking for them - they go into the motor or trans itself.

03-22-2007, 12:15 PM	#1 (permalink)
Randy Chase Registered User Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: San Diego and where ever the roads lead Posts: 28,174 Images: 761	Elise/Exige Fasteners to check periodically This thread is to detail the fasteners you should be checking, or have your mechanic check. The Elise, like any track car, should be checked periodically. Some fasteners may be fine for many thousand miles. Some, should be checked much more often. Some are safety, some are a nuisance issue. Some will depend if you track the car. Please add your findings to this thread. I will eventually make a table of all the suggestions. Fastener---------------Tool--------------- Interval-------------------Note Carpet Bolts Hand or a wide flat screw driver Monthly Lid Latch Cap Screws ?mm Allen Key 10k Miles Rear Toe Link Brace Wheel Well Liners Rear Diffuser (Main) Bolts Rear Diffuser 8mm Bolts __________________ * V E R I T A S * A E Q U I T A S * No Longer the ADMIN here, please do not PM me asking for help. Thanks! 2006 Noble M400. Getrag tranny, Quaiffe LSD, Hinged clams. Duratec dual turbo V6. Hoosier 315-18 tires. 2350 pounds. Over 500hp. Track weapon. 2009 Rossion Q1. Monaco Orange. Wing. Black leather/Alcantara with orange stitching. The street car. In build: 2009 Toniq R (300whp? 1100 pounds?). Chrome Orange. Lexus GX-470 tow vehicle.

03-22-2007, 12:17 PM	#2 (permalink)
Randy Chase Registered User Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: San Diego and where ever the roads lead Posts: 28,174 Images: 761	Carpet bolts. Those plastic things, two per, that hold down the carpeting (if you have it). These can and will work loose in a quick time and will fly under the seats to be lost forever. I think the action of a passenger stepping on them getting in and out and moving their feet can loosen them. I recommend checking these every couple weeks. Simple to do from the driver's seat or when you gas up the car. __________________ * V E R I T A S * A E Q U I T A S * No Longer the ADMIN here, please do not PM me asking for help. Thanks! 2006 Noble M400. Getrag tranny, Quaiffe LSD, Hinged clams. Duratec dual turbo V6. Hoosier 315-18 tires. 2350 pounds. Over 500hp. Track weapon. 2009 Rossion Q1. Monaco Orange. Wing. Black leather/Alcantara with orange stitching. The street car. In build: 2009 Toniq R (300whp? 1100 pounds?). Chrome Orange. Lexus GX-470 tow vehicle.

03-22-2007, 12:18 PM	#3 (permalink)
Randy Chase Registered User Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: San Diego and where ever the roads lead Posts: 28,174 Images: 761	The cap screws that hold in the latching mechanism to the rear lid. A sign you are coming loose is when the lid does not latch when you close it. The latching mechanism itself is moving up. Use an allen wrench to tighten this up. Check every 10k miles? __________________ * V E R I T A S * A E Q U I T A S * No Longer the ADMIN here, please do not PM me asking for help. Thanks! 2006 Noble M400. Getrag tranny, Quaiffe LSD, Hinged clams. Duratec dual turbo V6. Hoosier 315-18 tires. 2350 pounds. Over 500hp. Track weapon. 2009 Rossion Q1. Monaco Orange. Wing. Black leather/Alcantara with orange stitching. The street car. In build: 2009 Toniq R (300whp? 1100 pounds?). Chrome Orange. Lexus GX-470 tow vehicle.

03-22-2007, 12:21 PM	#4 (permalink)
lancer360 Registered User Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Charlotte, NC Posts: 1,215	The rear toe link bolts! If you are not running an upgrade you should check them before every event and at a minimum install the nord lock washers from S111. They are extremely cheap insurance. __________________ '05 Lotus Elise Saffron Yellow, Touring, Sport, Stainless Brake Lines, Moroso Oil Pan, RTD Brace KBS Mark 7 Formula 500 with a heart transplant in progress '09 600cc GSX-R Due to hit the track in August '09

03-22-2007, 12:29 PM	#5 (permalink)
Serebo1 fm78.tv - check it. Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Los Angeles Posts: 6,824 Images: 4	The Phillips screw on the handle side of the door, at the top of the runner, just beneath the seal. This is usually the culprit for a window that won't close all the way, and will eventually work its way loose. Here's a pic originally posted by Steve W: Attached Images __________________ Matte Black, Sport, Touring, ***** intake (TBA), RAC Mono wheels, Painted Shift knob, smoked turn signals, Alpine SPS 6.5" rear speakers, MB Quarts, JVC Nav, Starshield, LBH exhaust, Dpic perf. gauge, Custom true HID projectors, GUT wing and splitter, Mesh side pods, Sector111 harness bar and 4-point harness, Lotus Sport Ohlins double-adjustable suspension, swaybar, '06 LED tailights, Toda flywheel, Lotusport interior.

03-22-2007, 12:38 PM	#6 (permalink)
IBCJ my name is not cliff !! Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: santa monica, ca Posts: 983	* Main and 8mm bolts on the Engine Access cover - 8mm and ??? - 5k. Especially if you don't do your own oil (which you should). * 8 bolts (4 on either side) that hold the exhaust up - 8mm Socket - 10k. They mount through thick rubber grommets, and you'll be unhappy when they loosen up and your exhaust starts making out with your diffuser. I would like to see some torque spec numbers in this sticky, especially for those important suspension parts. Anyone have them? __________________ cjlittle[dºt]com 05 Elise #113 w/ Touring, Black LSS wheels, Alpine CDA-9857, Polks all around, integrated V1, one-of-a-kind two-tone Saffron Yellow paint

03-22-2007, 12:49 PM	#8 (permalink)
xtn McLareghini Bugatterrari Join Date: May 2006 Location: Texas Posts: 6,845	Recommendations should include torque values where applicable. Thanks, xtn __________________ 2006 McLareghini Bugatterrari, Storm Titanium... <mods> installed: air horn, Scroth 4-point ASM harnesses, Sector111 halon extinguisher and mounting bracket, Von Hep exhaust and rear panel delete, Pagid brake pads, red Volks CE28n wheels, Toyo RA-1 tires, Nitron SA coilovers, Sector111 (WorksBell) quick-disconnect steering wheel kit. awaiting installation: Scroth "pull-up" lap belts, Sector111 RTD Brace, Tony's heater bypass mod, and dropped steering rack mounting plates. </mods>

03-22-2007, 01:10 PM	#10 (permalink)
IBCJ my name is not cliff !! Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: santa monica, ca Posts: 983	My car has all those things? Where did those come from (be specific you)? I never thought I'd say this, but here goes: "Thank you Alan." __________________ cjlittle[dºt]com 05 Elise #113 w/ Touring, Black LSS wheels, Alpine CDA-9857, Polks all around, integrated V1, one-of-a-kind two-tone Saffron Yellow paint

03-25-2007, 02:54 PM	#11 (permalink)
Ol'Racer Registered User Join Date: Jan 2007 Posts: 414	Good stuff! Does anyone have the conversion? nm = lbs? and inch lbs? Thanks!

03-25-2007, 07:49 PM	#12 (permalink)
xtn McLareghini Bugatterrari Join Date: May 2006 Location: Texas Posts: 6,845	Elise/Exige Fasteners to check periodically Uh... all of 'em? xtn __________________ 2006 McLareghini Bugatterrari, Storm Titanium... <mods> installed: air horn, Scroth 4-point ASM harnesses, Sector111 halon extinguisher and mounting bracket, Von Hep exhaust and rear panel delete, Pagid brake pads, red Volks CE28n wheels, Toyo RA-1 tires, Nitron SA coilovers, Sector111 (WorksBell) quick-disconnect steering wheel kit. awaiting installation: Scroth "pull-up" lap belts, Sector111 RTD Brace, Tony's heater bypass mod, and dropped steering rack mounting plates. </mods>

03-27-2007, 04:37 AM	#15 (permalink)
xtn McLareghini Bugatterrari Join Date: May 2006 Location: Texas Posts: 6,845	If you keep the car long enough you will.... __________________ 2006 McLareghini Bugatterrari, Storm Titanium... <mods> installed: air horn, Scroth 4-point ASM harnesses, Sector111 halon extinguisher and mounting bracket, Von Hep exhaust and rear panel delete, Pagid brake pads, red Volks CE28n wheels, Toyo RA-1 tires, Nitron SA coilovers, Sector111 (WorksBell) quick-disconnect steering wheel kit. awaiting installation: Scroth "pull-up" lap belts, Sector111 RTD Brace, Tony's heater bypass mod, and dropped steering rack mounting plates. </mods>

03-27-2007, 12:19 PM	#17 (permalink)
xtn McLareghini Bugatterrari Join Date: May 2006 Location: Texas Posts: 6,845	Funny you mention that... On sunday I was helping a couple of friends do tech inspections and brake/clutch fluid bleeds. One of the things we looked at while the belly pan was off is, you guessed it already didn't you?, the engine mount bolts. xtn __________________ 2006 McLareghini Bugatterrari, Storm Titanium... <mods> installed: air horn, Scroth 4-point ASM harnesses, Sector111 halon extinguisher and mounting bracket, Von Hep exhaust and rear panel delete, Pagid brake pads, red Volks CE28n wheels, Toyo RA-1 tires, Nitron SA coilovers, Sector111 (WorksBell) quick-disconnect steering wheel kit. awaiting installation: Scroth "pull-up" lap belts, Sector111 RTD Brace, Tony's heater bypass mod, and dropped steering rack mounting plates. </mods>

03-29-2007, 11:34 PM	#18 (permalink)
Dietrich I can run very fast Join Date: Sep 2006 Posts: 722	check every plastic bit in the fender well liners periodically. __________________ my favorite Elise sites: http://www.elisemods.com http://www.sandsmuseum.com/cars/elise/index.html

06-05-2007, 07:03 PM	#20 (permalink)
Terry Registered User Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Philadelphia, PA Posts: 379	At a recent track event, the exhaust system suddenly broke. We determined that the motor was rotating because, of the two bolts which secure the engine/trans to the rear lower motor mount, one was backed out half way and one was gone entirely. We replaced the bolts and I ran the rest of the weekend. When I took the car to the dealer to order the new exhaust, the tech noticed that both of the bolts from the front lower mount were also missing. In other words, 3 of the 4 bolts were gone and and the 4th was half way out. It is impossible to check these bolts unless you are specifically looking for them - they go into the motor or trans itself.

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