Engine Light blues in Clovis ,CA

[Joe guraro]

I just drove home my Elise from LA about 215 miles ,What a blast. The ac sucks. On day 2 the engine light came on ,I call the old owner he said that happens when the gas cap is not on tight . How do I get the light to go off ?
Hope somebody can help me with the light problem. Thanks in advance.

[Tyger]

Originally Posted by Joe guraro

I just drove home my Elise from LA about 215 miles ,What a blast. The ac sucks. On day 2 the engine light came on ,I call the old owner he said that happens when the gas cap is not on tight . How do I get the light to go off ?
Hope somebody can help me with the light problem. Thanks in advance.

That IS one reason for the engine light to come on. After you tighten the cap (3 clicks) it might take a while for the light to reset, if that is indeed the problem.
Hey, if you drive with the top off, who needs AC?

[Optimus]

Originally Posted by Joe guraro

I just drove home my Elise from LA about 215 miles ,What a blast. The ac sucks. On day 2 the engine light came on ,I call the old owner he said that happens when the gas cap is not on tight . How do I get the light to go off ?
Hope somebody can help me with the light problem. Thanks in advance.

Cool, a new Fresno-Clovis owner! Congrats... If you pull the negative cable out of your battery for 10 min and put it back on this will also reset the CEL.

Dave

[Joe guraro]

Thanks to all who have read my thread,
I went ahead and discounted the batt over night, like 12 hours it didnot reset. I only have 4122 miles. Should put injection cleaner in the gas tank I am thinking it might have a cloged injector.
Any thoughts from all.
Thanks for any help ,

[Goose]

Hi Joe,

Other than pulling the fuse to the engine's computer (which you did by disconnecting the battery) or tightening the gas cap, there's not much else you can do. I assume there is no "local" dealer.

I'd give it a few more reasonable drives (nothing too aggressive) before making the trek to the closest dealer. Sometimes these check engine light resets take a number of start/drive/shutoff cycles to take effect.

I admit that this is just a guess. If you want to play it safe, take it to the dealer - it'll be covered under warranty.

[karajabola]

Originally Posted by Joe guraro

Thanks to all who have read my thread,
I went ahead and discounted the batt over night, like 12 hours it didnot reset. I only have 4122 miles. Should put injection cleaner in the gas tank I am thinking it might have a cloged injector.
Any thoughts from all.
Thanks for any help ,

assuming the warrenty is transferable, i'd just take it to a dealer, could be serious.

also, some auto parts stores rent diagnostic computers for free. here in MI, Murray's auto parts will take a deposit, then give you a 100% refund when you return it. you can keep the computer as long as you like, even indefinitely

you'd have to check the the diagnostic hookup just under the knee bolster is a standard connector (ODBE 2 or something like that) i'd imagine the connector is the same as other vehicles with that motor

get the codes and call any dealer, i'd imagine they'd be willing to translate the codes for you.

[Tyger]

Originally Posted by Joe guraro

Thanks to all who have read my thread,
I went ahead and discounted the batt over night, like 12 hours it didnot reset. I only have 4122 miles. Should put injection cleaner in the gas tank I am thinking it might have a cloged injector.
Any thoughts from all.
Thanks for any help ,

Could be a thousand things causing the fault, but as long as it's not flashing you don't need to stop driving it right away. Best thing to do is get it checked out with a dealer. Even if you get the OBD tool, you still wont know what the codes are, unless you have a service manual.
Hmm, come to think of it, can any of you guys with the service manual post the fault codes, if you do have them?

[cixelsyd]

Originally Posted by Joe guraro

Thanks to all who have read my thread,
I went ahead and discounted the batt over night, like 12 hours it didnot reset. I only have 4122 miles. Should put injection cleaner in the gas tank I am thinking it might have a cloged injector.
Any thoughts from all.
Thanks for any help ,

I wouldn't put any additives into the car yet, but thats just me.

Joe - Manuel says that the "solid" engine check light indicates a non-serious fault (he also says it in a cuban accent... strange); for me, it was that the gas cap wasnt on. Once I put the cap back on, it took a couple cycles of ignition on/off to reset the light... but it did reset automatically.

If, after you disconnected the battery, the light has not reset itself, the first thing I would do is call a dealership for help. I assume there is not one thats local: thats the position most of us are in. The idea to rent an OBD (whatever) code reader is a very good one, and what my dealership suggested to me when i called them with your problem. THey said they could tell me what the code meant over the phone, if I could get it read somewhere. Luckily, I found the gas cap at the gas station in the meantime.

Find a code reader and phone it in. In the meantime, dont get on the cams and drive as little as possible ... sorry to hear about the problems your experiencing!!!

-=cixelsyd

[cixelsyd]

Originally Posted by Tyger

Could be a thousand things causing the fault, but as long as it's not flashing you don't need to stop driving it right away. Best thing to do is get it checked out with a dealer. Even if you get the OBD tool, you still wont know what the codes are, unless you have a service manual.
Hmm, come to think of it, can any of you guys with the service manual post
the fault codes, if you do have them?

I am looking to see if the service info contains the OBD codes, but a quick scan doesn't show them ... I have all the engine codes, but that is something different and requires a lotus-specific tool to read from the engine ECU, I think... unless they are the same thing? someone instruct me here...

and in the meantime, heres the section on the check engine light from the book:


Malfunction Indicator Lamp (k)
The engine Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) is provided to warn the driver that the engine management
system has detected a fault which may result in increased noxious emissions from the exhaust. In order to
minimise emissions and potential engine damage, various operational limitations may automatically be applied.
i) If the MIL lights continuously whilst driving, immediately reduce speed and adopt a moderate driving style.
Seek dealer advice without delay and avoid all unnecessary journeys.
ii) If the MIL flashes, an engine misfire has been detected which is likely to cause overheat damage to the catalytic converter. Slow down immediately and be prepared to stop.
- If the MIL then stops flashing, and is lit continuously, proceed with caution and seek dealer advice.
- If the MIL continues to flash, stop the vehicle as soon as it is safe to do so, and switch off the engine. Seek
dealer advice.
Note:
- Continuing to drive the car with a flashing MIL may cause overheat damage to the catalytic converter and
increased noxious emissions.
- In order to comply with emissions regulations, data regarding activation of the MIL is recorded in the engine
electronic controller, and may be downloaded by Lotus dealers.



Here's the info from the service manual on engine codes... it mentions a "lotus" tool to read the code, so I donno if a "standard" code reader is gonna work...
(please ignore the number AFTER the problem description, this is the table of contents and that just indicates a page number for more info)

EMP.1 - DIAGNOSTIC TROUBLE CODE LIST
DTC Fault description Page
P0011 A Camshaft Position - Timing Over-Advanced or System Performance 4
P0012A Camshaft Position - Timing Over-Retarded 4
P0076 Intake Valve Control Solenoid Circuit Low 4
P0077 Intake Valve Control Solenoid Circuit High 4
P0101 Mass or Volume Air Flow Circuit Range/Performance 5
P0102 Mass or Volume Air Flow Circuit Low Input 5
P0103 Mass or Volume Air Flow Circuit High Input 5
P0106 Manifold Absolute Pressure/Barometric Pressure Circuit Range/Performance 7
P0107 Manifold Absolute Pressure/Barometric Pressure Circuit Low Input 7
P0108 Manifold Absolute Pressure/Barometric Pressure Circuit High Input 7
P0111 Intake Air Temperature Sensor 1 Circuit Range/Performance 8
P0112 Intake Air Temperature Sensor 1 Circuit Low 8
P0113 Intake Air Temperature Sensor 1 Circuit High 8
P0116 Engine Coolant Temperature Circuit Range/Performance 10
P0117 Engine Coolant Temperature Circuit Low 10
P0118 Engine Coolant Temperature Circuit High 10
P0121 Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch “A” Circuit Range/Performance 12
P0122 Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch “A” Circuit Low 12
P0123 Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch “A” Circuit High 12
P0128 Coolant Thermostat (Coolant Temperature Below Thermostat Regulating Temperature) 14
P0131 O2 Sensor Circuit Low Voltage (Pre Catalyst) 15
P0132 O2 Sensor Circuit High Voltage (Pre Catalyst) 15
P0133 O2 Sensor Circuit Slow Response (Pre Catalyst) 15
P0134 O2 Sensor Circuit No Activity Detected (Pre Catalyst) 15
P0135 O2 Sensor Heater Circuit (Pre Catalyst) 15
P0137 O2 Sensor Circuit Low Voltage (Post Catalyst) 18
P0138 O2 Sensor Circuit High Voltage (Post Catalyst) 18
P0139 O2 Sensor Circuit Slow Response (Post Catalyst) 18
P0140 O2 Sensor Circuit No Activity Detected (Post Catalyst) 18
P0141 O2 Sensor Heater Circuit (Post Catalyst) 18
P0171 System Too Lean 20
P0172 System Too Rich 20
P0201 Injector Circuit/Open – Cylinder 1 21
P0202 Injector Circuit/Open – Cylinder 2 21
P0203 Injector Circuit/Open – Cylinder 3 21
P0204 Injector Circuit/Open – Cylinder 4 21
P0300 Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected 22
P0301 Cylinder 1 Misfire Detected 22
P0302 Cylinder 2 Misfire Detected 22
P0303 Cylinder 3 Misfire Detected 22
P0304 Cylinder 3 Misfire Detected 22
P0324 Knock Control System Error 24
P0327 Knock Sensor 1 Circuit Low 24
P0328 Knock Sensor 1 Circuit High 24
P0335 Crankshaft Position Sensor “A” Circuit Range/Performance 25
P0340 Camshaft Position Sensor “A” Circuit 26
P0351 Ignition Coil “A” Primary/Secondary Circuit 27
P0352 Ignition Coil “B” Primary/Secondary Circuit 27
P0353 Ignition Coil “C” Primary/Secondary Circuit 27
P0354 Ignition Coil “D” Primary/Secondary Circuit 27
P0420 Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold 28
P0441 Evaporative Emission System Incorrect Purge Flow 29
P0442 Evaporative Emission System Leak Detected (small leak) 29
sn_emp_cyclone.indd 2 06/04/2005 15:45:27
Lotus Service Notes Section EMP
Page 3
DTC Fault description Page
P0444 Evaporative Emission System Purge Control Valve Circuit Open 31
P0445 Evaporative Emission System Purge Control Valve Circuit Shorted 31
P0446 Evaporative Emission System Vent Control Circuit 31
P0447 Evaporative Emission System Vent Control Circuit Open 31
P0448 Evaporative Emission System Vent Control Circuit Shorted 31
P0451 Evaporative Emission System Pressure Sensor/Switch Range/Performance 31
P0452 Evaporative Emission System Pressure Sensor/Switch Low 31
P0453 Evaporative Emission System Pressure Sensor/Switch High 31
P0455 Evaporative Emission System Leak Detected (large leak) 29
P0456 Evaporative Emission System Leak Detected (very small leak) 29
P0461 Fuel Level Sensor “A” Circuit Range/Performance 32
P0462 Fuel Level Sensor “A” Circuit Low 32
P0463 Fuel Level Sensor “A” Circuit High 32
P0480 Fan 1 Control Circuit 33
P0481 Fan 2 Control Circuit 33
P0500 Vehicle Speed Sensor “A” 34
P0506 Idle Air Control System RPM Lower Than Expected 35
P0507 Idle Air Control System RPM Higher Than Expected 35
P0508 Idle Air Control System Circuit Low 35
P0509 Idle Air Control System Circuit High 35
P0562 System Voltage Low 36
P0563 System Voltage High 36
P0601 Watchdog 37
P0606 Checksum 37
P0627 Fuel Pump Control Circuit /Open 38
P0646 A/C Clutch Relay Control Circuit Low 39
P0647 A/C Clutch Relay Control Circuit High 39
P1301 Misfire level causing emissions increase 40
P1302 Misfire level causing catalyst system damage 40
P2602 Coolant Pump Control Circuit Low 41
P2603 Coolant Pump Control Circuit High 41
P2646 A Rocker Arm Actuator System Performance or Stuck Off 42
P2647 A Rocker Arm Actuator System Stuck On 42
P2648 A Rocker Arm Actuator Control Circuit Low 42
P2649 A Rocker Arm Actuator Control Circuit High 42

When applicable, reference may be made under the 'Notes' heading to a page in the Toyota service manual.
This information should be used only for diagnosis and connection detail of the sensor. The Elise/Exige uses a Lotus ECU, the connections for which may be found in circuit diagrams in Section MP. Diagnostic Trouble Codes should be read using a Lotus Scan tool T000T1418F.

EMP.2 - ‘LOTUS SCAN’ DIAGNOSTIC TOOL
In order to provide for communication with the engine management system electronic control module, a hand held electronic scanner ‘Lotus Scan’ (part number T000T1418F), may be plugged into a special 16 terminal harness connector socket, known as a Data Link Connector (DLC), located at the front of the passenger footwell. Note that this tool may also be used on previous Elise models (excluding Exige, 340R and 160 models).

Amongst the operations available using the ‘Lotus Scan’ tool are:
- Reading of Trouble Codes
- Clearing of Trouble Codes
- Reading live data
- Test operation of individual solenoids
- Running engine history report
- Reprogramming ECU
Operating instructions are provided with the tool.

[Optimus]

Originally Posted by cixelsyd

I wouldn't put any additives into the car yet, but thats just me.

Joe - Manuel says that the "solid" engine check light indicates a non-serious fault (he also says it in a cuban accent... strange); for me, it was that the gas cap wasnt on. Once I put the cap back on, it took a couple cycles of ignition on/off to reset the light... but it did reset automatically.

If, after you disconnected the battery, the light has not reset itself, the first thing I would do is call a dealership for help. I assume there is not one thats local: thats the position most of us are in. The idea to rent an OBD (whatever) code reader is a very good one, and what my dealership suggested to me when i called them with your problem. THey said they could tell me what the code meant over the phone, if I could get it read somewhere. Luckily, I found the gas cap at the gas station in the meantime.

Find a code reader and phone it in. In the meantime, dont get on the cams and drive as little as possible ... sorry to hear about the problems your experiencing!!!

-=cixelsyd

Yes, I highley doubt it's anything major, most likely emission related. Can't be too sure until you pull the engine code. One of the closer dealers to us (Fresno) is in San Luis Obispo, Smith Lotus, which is over 100 miles away! I recently had my 1K service at SVAG in Cambell (which is also over 100 miles away), they seemed to have done a good job.

I don't think a standard obdii reader can read the lotus codes. I noticed the connector is smaller and doesn't fit my obdii reader. I would call one of the dealers and if ok, nurse the car to them. Meaning, don't floor it or rev high.

Good luck, Dave

[Joe guraro]

Thanks out to all of you who have helped me.
Can I take to a toyota dealer or must it be a lotus dealer ,I am new at this.
Thanks Again
Joe

[APOGEE]

Originally Posted by Joe guraro

Thanks out to all of you who have helped me.
Can I take to a toyota dealer or must it be a lotus dealer ,I am new at this.
Thanks Again
Joe

Lotus Elise has it's own E.C.M./ E.C.U. not a Toyota unit. Don.

[charliex]

its a standard obd ii port so any obd ii reader should be able to spit out the
codes, the only thing would be the lotus specific codes, which are here.
I haven't had a lotus specific code yet, but i'm guessing that most obd ii readers would still display it, just not know what it was, or documented in its manual.

autozone have a cheapish tool to do it, <100$ plus they rent the tools out too, i'm sure they'd allow you to test it first or rent one for a quick look, taks a few seconds the connector is centered under the dash below the ac controls

any garage should have an obd ii code reader.

[EspritS4S]

I have an Esprit S4S in Fresno, and my buddy has his new BRM Elise in Fresno. We should all meet up some time. We are also in the SCCA Fresno Chapter for Autocrossing.

Ed-

[Ground Loop]

Originally Posted by charliex

its a standard obd ii port so any obd ii reader should be able to spit out the
codes, the only thing would be the lotus specific codes, which are here.
I haven't had a lotus specific code yet, but i'm guessing that most obd ii readers would still display it, just not know what it was, or documented in its manual.

Yep, most of the code readers know just enough to show you the P number. They don't really care what it is.

I'd avoid Toyota scantools, since those are probably going to want to speak "Toyota" to your Lotus ECU. Stay generic.

[TimMullen]

FYI, all but the last 8 of the codes listed above are standard "generic" ODB-II codes used by all manufacturers. The "P" in the code stands for "Power train", the "0" indicates it's a generic code - the ones that start with "P1" or "P2" are manufacturer (Lotus in this case) specific codes that are not necessarily in common with other manufacturers. The last three digits indicate what system (fuel, emission, CPU, etc.) is having a problem and what the problem concerns.

There are three different protocols ("languages") that ODB-II readers can speak, and many readers can "speak" all three.

ISO - for European, Asian, Chrysler
VPW - for General Motors
PWM - for Ford

Some readers/scanners (especially the cheap ones) may only speak "GM" or "Ford" - our Elise uses the ISO protocol.

[Zeede]

Aunt Beru: Luke! Luke! Luke, tell uncle that if he gets a OBD-II make sure that it speaks ISO.

Luke: Doesn't look like we have much of a choice but I'll remind him.

. . .

Uncle Owen: What I really need is a ODB-II that understands the binary language of Ford evaporators.

C3PO: Ford evaporators? Sir, my first job was programming General Motors load lifters, very similar to your Ford evaporators in most respects.

Uncle Owen: Can you speak ISO?

C3PO: Of course I can sir, it's like a second language to me. I'm as fluent...

Uncle Owen: Alright shut up I'll take this one.

[CALtd]

I might as well use this existing thread as I am sure that someone will refer back to it.

/Begin long story
I went to the Mazda Zoom-Zoom (what a waste of time that was) in Pomona on Sunday and got to thoroughly test my A/C. It worked find driving up in the morning when it was 85, but after 3 hours of the car baking in the San Gabriel Valley heat, the temp in the car was over 100. The 1st half hour driving the A/C seemed to keep up but then it seemed like the fans were not pushing as much air. And what was coming out was warmer than the outside 75 mph breeze. When we got to San Clemented the outside temp drops to 75-80 and the A/C works great.

This morning I took it in to Symbolic and the checked the probed position and it was okay. The went ahead and evacuated the refrigerant and put in a dye. System seems to work okay so I go off to lunch and shopping.
/End long story

After the 2nd stop the CEL comes on and put on the ODB II scanner and get P0139 O2 sensor circuit slow response as the code. I do a reset and car starts up with no recurrence.

Any ideas if these are related events?

[e-Lise]

Well, I just got a CEL/MIL and it would not go away despite turning the car on and off several times and disconnecting the battery for 30 min or so. But thanks to the posts here I decided to go to my local Autozone (Wallingford, CT). The guy behind the counter came out and hooked up their OBD scanner - no problem. The scanner was able to read the code and gave out the correct error message too, based on the list Cixelsyd posted. I got a P0012 = Camshaft position over-retarded. I had hoped it was just the loose gas cap. Oh well. Oh, and at Autozone they *won't* reset the CEL.....

[Less Moore]

This is WAY too late to help anyone with this problem back in June, but I just now noticed the thread. My check engine light went on a few days after I picked up the car. To say the least, I was depressed, thinking I had to take it back. When I called the dealer, the service tech asked me if I was using BP gas, since they had some problems that seemed related to that. I do not use BP, so his next question was about how I was driving. When I told him I was taking it real easy on it until it was broken in, shifting short of 4,000 RPM, he said to run it through the gears a few times, shifting at 6,000 . . . basically, blow the carbon out and to shift it above 3,000 or 4,000 even when taking it easy. That did it! Only a mile or so of shifting above 4,000 and running it through 1st, 2nd and 3rd w/shifts at 6,000. Light out. The car doesn't like to be abused, but driving too easy apparently can clog the catalytic converter enough to trigger the check engine light. Hope this is a help to someone.