Help! Hardtop bolt stripped, sort of

[MickOpalak]

Right now I can't remove my hardtop because one of the four bolts holding it on (the one behind the drivers head) is stripped. It's not the threads of the bolt that are stripped, but the bolt head where the six-sided socket goes in. This has been rounded off so that the socket no longer bites. I've tried other options like using a Phillips screwdriver, a flat head screw driver and even a set of pliers around the bolt head itself. None of these will get it to budge. I figure once I have the hard top off I can just replace this bolt.

Any ideas on how to get this bolt loose? I may just end up taking it to the dealer.

[lotuscar]

Sears has a tool that "bites" into the head of rounded screws.

[Tyger]

[quote=MickOpalak]Right now I can't remove my hardtop because one of the four bolts holding it on (the one behind the drivers head) is stripped. It's not the threads of the bolt that are stripped, but the bolt head where the six-sided socket goes in. This has been rounded off so that the socket no longer bites. I've tried other options like using a Phillips screwdriver, a flat head screw driver and even a set of pliers around the bolt head itself. None of these will get it to budge. I figure once I have the hard top off I can just replace this bolt.

Any ideas on how to get this bolt loose? I may just end up taking it to the dealer.

[/QUOTE

Did you try Vise-Grips? Usually you can get them to grip something round pretty tightly without the hand pressure that might cause it to slip.
If the bolt is completely stripped, there was probably a problem with the threaded part too. Why would it be on so tight as to cause the head to become stripped?
In any case, you will probably need to get to the dealer to replace the bolt because it is a special "captive" Torx bolt.

[Goose]

I'm just thinking aloud, to add ideas to the pile:

If you've got a Dremel tool, you could cut a slot into the head of the bolt. Then just take a big 'ole flathead screwdriver to it...

(I'd probably get one of those nifty "screw outs", as mentioned before. Wouldn't want to risk barking the paint with the Dremel.)

Trying to help...

[MickOpalak]

Thanks for all of the ideas.

I"m heading to Lowes after work to pick up a 'screw-out' type device.

[LOTUS 5]

Mike, here is link to another who had same problem. Unfortunately just how he got the screw loose is unclear. I have put my top back on once and adjusted all the fittings to align better. Just doing this I can see some rounding on the screws. I am looking into getting a flexible shaft drive to get a better angle with the bits as they are used to tighten and loosen the screws. Good luck with your problem. Regards, Bob.

http://www.elisetalk.com/forums/showthread.php?t=11608

[Cisitalia]

Get an appropriate sized "easy-out" and drill into the bolt. Then apply the easy-out with a wrench to remove the bolt.

[TimMullen]

Originally Posted by Cisitalia

Get an appropriate sized "easy-out" and drill into the bolt. Then apply the easy-out with a wrench to remove the bolt.

Before you start drilling and "easy-outing", try some of the available (from Sears) stripped screw removal tools. Easy-outs can often break and make things even more difficult. I'd first try the Sears stripped screw removal tool, and if that didn't work, I'd get out my Dremel and cut a slot in the head for a screw driver. Easy-outs should be the last (and usually the worst) resort.

[MickOpalak]

The fine gentlemen at Lotus of Atlanta got the bolt out in a matter of moments this morning with a solution so simple and straight forward that I never would have thought of it.

Obviously the metal of the hardtop bolt is a little soft to start with since I was able to round it off so easily. They took the appropriately sized six point socket that would normally be used to remove the bolt and put it up to the bolt and applied a couple of raps with a hammer. The socket was now sunk into the bolt. They added a socket wrench and the bolt rotated right out. Once loose, they removed it and replaced it with a brand new one. It took a total of five minutes.

Kudos once again to LOA.

[Tyger]

Originally Posted by MickOpalak

Obviously the metal of the hardtop bolt is a little soft to start with since I was able to round it off so easily. They took the appropriately sized six point socket that would normally be used to remove the bolt and put it up to the bolt and applied a couple of raps with a hammer.

Hmm. It's supposed to be a Torx socket. You weren't using a regular hex wrench on it, were you?? That would explain how it started to get stripped in the first place!

[MickOpalak]

Originally Posted by Tyger

Hmm. It's supposed to be a Torx socket. You weren't using a regular hex wrench on it, were you?? That would explain how it started to get stripped in the first place!

Yes, I was talking about the Torx socket. The six-sided, star-shaped type. I didn't know what they were called.

[LotusLust]

nice racket you are running there, mick

[AdamT]

Sorry to revive such an old post, but after a couple of seasons of taking the hardtop off and then putting it back on, this same problem has developed for me. One of the Torx bolts is almost completely stripped. After a lot of work, I finally got it out, but I am going to need to come up with a solution before I try to put the hardtop back on again next season since that bolt has had it.

I'm thinking of the Dremel tool trick mentioned above as one solution. But I'd rather just cut the old Torx bolt one out of there and put a new one in. Has anyone else done that? If so, does it really make a difference if the new Torx bolt isn't tethered to the roof permanently like the old ones? And why does it need to be a Torx bolt at all? I can't see why either of those things would make a difference, but I just figured I would ask before I gave it a shot.

[AZLotus]

Originally Posted by AdamT

Sorry to revive such an old post, but after a couple of seasons of taking the hardtop off and then putting it back on, this same problem has developed for me. One of the Torx bolts is almost completely stripped. After a lot of work, I finally got it out, but I am going to need to come up with a solution before I try to put the hardtop back on again next season since that bolt has had it.

I'm thinking of the Dremel tool trick mentioned above as one solution. But I'd rather just cut the old Torx bolt one out of there and put a new one in. Has anyone else done that? If so, does it really make a difference if the new Torx bolt isn't tethered to the roof permanently like the old ones? And why does it need to be a Torx bolt at all? I can't see why either of those things would make a difference, but I just figured I would ask before I gave it a shot.

I'm right there with you. It's the same bolt that was mentioned in the original post. The drivers side rear bolt. I'm thinking a new CF top is the best solution