How to Detail Your Elise

[Vantage]

Typically I don't prefer to use a orbital to remove a product, as hand removal is more effective in the smaller spots and is generally more safe. Griots also sells an attachment for your buffer to clay with. That sounds terrible to me! If you like machine removal though, then do what you like.

The key to getting any wax to remove quickly and with little effort is to apply it as thin as possible. For Zaino I put it on so thin that I can barely see it head one and have to shift around a bit to see the application. Effort increases quite a bit with thickness. P21S is a wipe on, wipe off product which aids removal. Still, it can be fussy if you really slop it on, but you don't have to be that carefull with it. In any case, go thin! It will at the very least save product.

[Vantage]

BTW, in an upcoming issue of the Club111 newsletter, JamesA is working on an exterior and interior detailing overview to get people started when they first take delivery.

What other articles are of interest?
- chip repair
- swirl removal, using a Porter Cable
- synthetic and carnauba combos?
- using detailing clay
- tools for detailing, how to look for proper microfiber, wash mitts
- name your own...

- J

[Peter R]

Originally posted by MattG
Peter, any tips for removing and buffing the excess wax when using the Best of Show stuff? Do you use the orbital for that? I always have a hard time with that with this wax.

(Sorry for the late reply, I forgot to check back on this thread in the last few days...)

Yes, I've had the same problem and like Vantage says, apply in small amounts. The first time I used this stuff, I put too much on and man, were my arms sore from all that buffing (remember in the Karate Kid movie: "wax on, wax off..."? ). Yes, I manually remove it, I don't trust machines.

Do many light coats, not one heavy coat.

[Vantage]

I received this PM from a user and wanted to reply to all those who were wondering:

Why not use REJEX instead of a lot of time consuming steps and then use Mr Clean's 'auto-dry system' to remove water stains? So all you have to do is spray and walk away. REJEX is suppose to last for several months?

There is really no problem using this solution. In fact, it may cater exactly to your detailing needs. These may be ease of use, minimal maintenance, minimal cost, and improved aesthetics, among others. As with the Elise, this solution to the basic problem involves compromise. The best product is the one that works best for YOU.

You may find many of these extra steps time consuming, and I might even agree with you there. It can be! However, for my personal needs, the cost of time and effort is worth it when it comes to the final results. To some extent detailing becomes a hobby for some, and for others it's just a chore. Let's find out more about your needs...

Durability: There are other products that can outperform Rejex. Steve@Gurureports was able to get 6 weeks out of the product. Can't confirm them myself, but even if it lasts 12 weeks, there are sealants on the market that outperform it. Six months out of Klasse Sealant Glaze is not uncommon. How often are you willing to rewax?

Maintenance: This category can tie into durability to some extent. Keeping your car garaged and clean can increase the durability of your wax. This is basically a zero effort item. Wiping your car down with a quick detailer after each wash also helps improve the durability and surface quality. Using a California Car Duster keeps the dust off and helps with aesthetics. Mr. Clean Auto Dry's may indeed save you drying time, but it may fall short in other areas. For example, Einszett Perls solution smells great, provides more lubrication, and some gloss enhancement. Zaino car wash also improves longevity for Zaino'd vehicles specifically. Perls also does this for regular waxes by keeping the surface clean, but Zaino has some kind of replenishing effect. The tradeoff is that I must dry my car, but it only takes me 20 minutes or so to do this.

It has been said that Rejex doesn't let things stick to it. It's made by a lubrication company BTW. Dirt washes off a waxed surface more easily than an unwaxed surface, in so far as our paint discussion goes. Is Rejex so superior in this regard that you are willing to discontinue use of any other product? That's for you to judge.

Aesthetics: I will preface this by saying the new cars looking pretty darn good when you take delivery! Simply topping a new car with your favorite wax will be good enough for most people by far. There isn't much to touch or do to it as far as prep.

How good your paint looks after it's all said and done is really a product of the surface preparation, not just the wax you used. If you only do the minimum of applying a wax layer like Rejex, it's not going to look as good as what Nick@Detailer's Paradise can do with polishes, and two different kinds of wax layered. In terms of pure looks with the wax, a lot of people find other products superior to Rejex, but at the cost of something else like effort or durability or cost to buy the product. Rejex will benefit from surface prep like polishing and swirl removal, just like any other product. It's also attention to "detail" that makes a car look good. Not only what is done to the paint, but protecting the rubber trim, keeping the tires dressed, the wheels clean, exhaust tip polished, diffuser free of soot, the leather in good conditon, the interior clean, etc. All this takes time.

Monetary cost: It's possible to spend hundreds of dollars on orbital buffers, microfiber towels, cotton towels, applicators, different kinds of polishes, chemical cleaners, degreasers, vacuums, brushes, waxes, and things of this nature. It's really a hobby. How far to you want to go with it?

So basically you have to weigh all of these considerations when choosing. Rejex is pretty straightforward, provides pretty good shine and is comparable to a product like Liquid Glass. Coupled with Mr. Clean Autodry you can keep your car fairly clean.

Personally, I'm not into the concours thing, as the effort really isn't worth it. But what I do like is an outstanding looking car to drive around with relatively low maintenance (to me), that may require substantial initial effort when applying the products. This means not merely using Rejex and something a little more robust. If you just want a product to apply every couple months and forget about it, then you might not care about what else there is out there.

If you made it this far, I'm very very sorry for writing this much.

- J

PS: And while I preach on, I have a very dirty black car sitting at home that needs some serious work.

[fzust]

Just picked up my car and the dealer's detail shop zinged the windshield trip and a bit of the venting trim with wax. Any good ideas how to actually remove this and not just cover it up?


THANKS

[Vantage]

I've had good luck with 3M Tar and Adhesive remover for infrequent spot treatments. A few online retailers also sell products especially for this purpose, so check it out...

[Samurai]

Mequire's makes an all purpose cleaner that I use, $10-$15 a gallon. You can mix it to any stregth you want. I use a 10:1 water mixture to clean plastic and the top on my spyder and Jeep. I just spray a little on and use an old tooth brush to loosen the dried wax.

BTW, a 4:1 mixture degreeses the enigne very well and pulls oil off the driveway.

[fzust]

Thanks for the helpful advice. Dried wax on black plastic has to be the hardest thing to remove.

[James A]

Prior to waxing or polishing detail your rubber and plastic parts with something like 303 Aerospace Protectant or other rubber/plastic protectant. You will find that the was/polish wipes off.

[Samurai]

Becarefull about oil and grease like streaks from applying 303 and other products. Usually I water down painted area around the plastic and rinse the 303 off to avoid the streaking.

[vistatical]

Okay, so I want to use zaino... but I see a few different products on their website.. zaino 1, zaino 2, ZFX, etc...

Which one should I use?

And should I use a 'synthetic' wax before applying one of those zaino products, or is zaino a synthetic wax? (if so, which one?)

Thanks.

[Gojira]

Has anyone used any of the "quick detail" sprays to shine up an area in a hurry?

Are they harmful in any way?

[raggedy1]

Originally posted by vistatical
Okay, so I want to use zaino... but I see a few different products on their website.. zaino 1, zaino 2, ZFX, etc...

Which one should I use?

And should I use a 'synthetic' wax before applying one of those zaino products, or is zaino a synthetic wax? (if so, which one?)

Thanks.

check their website.
they recommend you wash your car with Dawn liquid to strip off any wax before applying their products.

[Vantage]

Zaino is a synthetic wax and their website explains the differences between the products. You will need ZFX, Z2, and optionally Z5 if you prefer. Z6 and Z7 are also good products and are beneficial if the paint has Zaino on it, but it's up to you.

Quick detail sprays are great to help remove excess wax residue or after washes to both liven up the finish and remove any water spots. Some people use it in conjuction with the California Car Duster between washes to keep the car clean. You tend to go through a good amount of it if you detail frequently. They aren't harmful to the paint at all, but the usual rules apply. If there is dirt on the surface or you use a bad towel, you can scratch the surface up. Otherwise, they are generally fine.

If you find some odd product that is abrasive, then it could be harmful, but I can't think of any. 4Star Ultimate Gloss Enhancer and Zaino's are my favorites. Meguiars and Eagle One make decent products if I need to get something off the shelf locally. Almost every company makes a quick detailer and there are many good products out there. Some contain wax.

BTW, I hear Detailer's Paradise (forum sponsor) is going to be carrying 4Star products in the future.

[J-Son]

i have learned about three products i am waiting to use when i get my elise.....this site made me go out and buy plexus, s100, and rejex.
i havent heard much about peoples opinions on the best product to shine the tires.....well??

[aletes]

Originally posted by Arno
Heh heh..

Why wash it at all?

Just drive it until it is filthy...

Then drive it some more!!

You won't be able to resist driving it.. Muhaaahaahaaa!! (diabolical laughter...)

Bye, Arno.

Hmmm ... Wash or drive, wash or drive? Maybe if I go fast enough the dirt will fly off.

[Ground Loop]

Originally posted by rucnok

i havent heard much about peoples opinions on the best product to shine the tires.....well??

I like Zaino's Z-7 tire dressing, but I'm sure there are others like it. I don't like the high-gloss look, just the clean "new tire" look.

Avoid aerosol sprays, as they tend to be like shellac, get on everything, and ruin your clearcoat. Even when applied carefully, they have a huge fake gloss to them. Last a long time, though -- maybe that's your look.

Z7 is runny stuff, like skim milk. I put it on with a thin sponge, then go around all the tires and wipe off the excess with an old towel. The wheels look nice for weeks, and the stuff seems pretty mild-mannered. I like it.

[atyclb]

Originally posted by rucnok

i havent heard much about peoples opinions on the best product to shine the tires.....well??

meguiar's endurance gel

[Samurai]

Originally posted by atyclb
meguiar's endurance gel

I would use 303 or Lexol. Lexol has a little more shine, but both are good at protecting against UV.

I think someone else posted it already, but Autopia is the best place to get information about products and detailing.

[Goose]

Rather than create a new thread, I'll tack these questions onto this one:

- Does any body have scratches on their aluminum interior? Any idea how to make these less noticable? Since it's got that "brushed" finish, I'm trying to avoid an agressive metal polish.

- what do you use to clean the aluminum interior?