How to Detail Your Elise - Page 5 - LotusTalk

soulmn · 07-04-2005, 04:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Domer1974

Ever wonder how to get excess wax off the black grilles and rubber sections of your Elise? Wonder no more......peanut butter. Apply with your finger, rub a little, wipe it off. Works terrific....and lasts too! A guy at the track told me to try it and, son of gun, it works.

Would that be regular or the extra crunchy?

Jif or Skippy?

soulman

Praksis · 07-06-2005, 03:19 PM

Being near clueless in the area of auto-detailing, I thought I'd post a link to the single most useful document I've found to educate me on how to take care of my spyder (I only get to drool over the thought of owning an Elise for now)

It was written up by Dev on spyderchat, and is perfectly named 'Exterior Detailing 101'.

http://www.spyderchat.com/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=20887

Fighting For Air · 08-22-2005, 04:36 PM

OK... here's one for all you detailing experts. I got a gouge in the starshield on my front end from a flying rock. The hole has got some pretty noticable nasty looking edges. Any way of filling it in or smoothing it out without replacing the entire section of starshield?

J-Son · 08-22-2005, 05:23 PM

anyone want something like this:
http://www.spyderchat.com/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=22742

seems like someone should make these for the elise.

soulmn · 08-24-2005, 03:45 AM

I like the idea. Just need to get them in starlight black now.

soulman

vidoprof · 09-11-2005, 08:27 AM

Ok reviving an old thread.

So I looked at autopia.org and the whole place recommends SONUS. Is this THE detailers products? or are they just selling their own stuff?

I would like an all in one something that I can just order everything and then use them.

Or can someone recommend what i should buy from beginning to end for my car.

I will primarily use this WHEN i get the elise, but i have a new 05 Acura TL that I will be using this stuff on.

Any help would be much appreciated.

I was thinking the Meguir's stuff, but then I see Zaino's is pretty good too.. where do I start?

Ryan

Vantage · 09-11-2005, 11:22 AM

Hi Ryan,

DavidB, the owner of Autopia.org, has rights to the Sonus brand here and sells products under the label. I believe it's otherwise a German brand. Autopia does hype a lot of products, but it's not all unwarranted. It's less the product, but the technique you use.

I have not tried his entire line, but things that I have tried are very good. His SFX-3 polish (finest of the three) is a great finishing polish and is easy to use with a Porter Cable. I also have his green SFX Ultrafine clay, which is probably the least abrasive clay I have tried. It's great for mid year clean ups where you don't need much bite.

I wouldn't hesistate to try all of his products, but there are more than adequate substitues on the market too. There are so many good products on the market that you have to find what you like to use best. The other thing to keep in mind is that no one brand has a complete line of products. Sonus doesn't have a wax or sealant. Zaino is missing some misc. items like a wheel cleaner (though you can just use car wash shampoo). Not a huge fan of Meguiar's, but you still get great results with their products.

You could always try Detailer's Paradise's Starter bundle. It has microfiber towels, wash mitt, shampoo, and a lot of little items that are helpful. It doesn't have a real swirl mark remover or pure polish, so you may have to buy that on the side.

A lot of this also depends on how much effort you are willing to put into this. How often to rewax, how much polishing you want to do, etc.

- J

pushundersteer · 09-12-2005, 01:26 PM

I'm glad this thread was revived, I wanted to add a couple of things:

1. I know it's been pointed out, but it hasn't been emphasized enough for me - the dust on your dirty car combined with a high-pressure sprayer (even a normal hose with a good nozzle) become 'sandwater' (like sand paper). It will scratch your paint. A fine mist spray to completely soak the car left for a couple of minutes is a perfect start, to be followed by soapy water and a soft mitt or scrubber is perfect.

2. For those who don't want to take the time to tape all the open seams (like where the door meets the side panel), or who have a car that someone in the past left a wax buildup in those seams, I found a tool that makes removal quick and easy:

First, get one of these:

It is a surfboard wax comb, most designs will work, but the one pictured here seems to work best, it's called Wahoos wax comb, available from www.9star.com for $1.99, or most surf shops for around the same. It is made out of ABS or similar plastic, a fairly soft compound, which will not scratch paint.

Then, starting from the bottom left corner as pictured, cut the comb in half diagonally ending the cut at the upper right corner. Be sure to start in the curved, half-moon shaped section at the left, not in the teeth on the bottom. All the teeth should remain together. A hack saw will go through the thing like butter, and if you put a little oil on the blade first, you won't clog the teeth.

Now the corner where you started should have a couple of points of different sizes and angles. I have yet to come across the body panel I couldn't get one of those corners tucked into. You just run it back and forth a bit in the groove, and all the wax will flake right off. Once you get used to it, you can do a whole car in a couple of minutes. The leftover piece makes a great soft scraper, good for getting bird turds and tree sap off the car without scratching the paint.

Vantage · 09-12-2005, 02:57 PM

Interesting idea for the seams.

Note that for the surface of the paint, it's usually not that towel or item you are using, but the grit or dirt you're trying to wipe away that scratches.

I may give that a try for one specific area where scratches will not be visible.

autoxelise · 12-03-2005, 05:49 PM

Griot's is the brand I like. For car detailing and just keeping it pretty, there hasn't been a better soap, wax, sealer... you name it griot's probably has it. Plus, their products aren't ridiculously expensive. Just so you guys know what wax, or other car care product brand I recommend.

AttAkker · 12-22-2005, 04:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bellotech

Zaino is a great product. But just like someone else said.... it's all dependent on the surface preparation. If I see a car with many swirl marks, I'll start off with 3M compound and an applicator pad until the surface is smooth to the touch. Clay bar follows the process. Zfx+Z2 or Z5 to protect it.
Carlos
98 Supra TT

I live by Zaino as well. Have used it on my 00 Vette for years. And my 06 Elise just got it's 1st wash and I used the Zaino as well. Car looks awesome.

AttAkker

LARRY · 03-09-2006, 02:51 PM

California Car Cover. In Los Angeles. Evolution car cover in blue. Keeps car clean. Fights dings. Keeps prying eyes and fingers away. What they can't see they don't touch. I swear by 'em - they'll make it custom for the Elise.

Put it over the starshield.

LBC111 · 03-22-2006, 05:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ridgemanron

know this guy with a beautiful 1974 Toyota Corolla (owned it since new) and
he claims to never have washed the car with soap. It still looks pristine. Also, I
was told that if you must go to a car wash, then make sure it is 'touchless',
not 'brushless' if you want to avoid getting swirls.

I had a Jeep Wrangler that I also "almost" never washed with soap. I kept it out of the sun/rain when not driven, and just used mineral-free or distilled water, sprayed it down (lightly and often) at a coin wash, drove off so the wind could blow most of the water off, then would lightly dry the remainder with a clean cotton towel. I only off-roaded it about a dozen times, and only used soap when there was caked-on mud. The finish was always like new. I had the truck for 8 years before I finally waxed it, and there wasn't much of a difference after it was waxed. The only thing that REALLY helped to make it shine, was to dress up all the plastic, rubber, and metal. (It also helps to live in a very temperate climate.)

I don't buy the arguments that you have to wax every ____ months, or ____ wax is much better than ____ wax. Bottom line is how you treat the finish from the start. I think the key to maintaining a good finish is, keep these things away: Detergents; Scrubbing; Sun, and use the cleanest, most mineral-free water possible.

The Elise has been waxed once, but I have only washed it with soap 3 times.

BTW.. a great little trick to make the undercarriage, wheel wells, etc. of a truck look new again: Armor All (or similar product). It works WAY better, and lasts longer, on metal than it does on plastic!

30mpg · 03-28-2006, 08:35 PM

So -- I keep it pretty simple and am happy with my results. Wanted to give those that know better than I do a chance to share thoughts.

I use a cheap car-wash fluid. Had been using Zip-Wax Car Wash for about 15 years. Switched to Meguiars Car Wash fluid recently and am equally happy with the results. This leaves a thin layer of protection on the car and water does bead. Of course, I first rince the car with clean water at a low-medium pressure (not high!) and only then use a sheepskin-style sponge. I try to not let any part of the car dry with soap on. Then use a leather chammois to dry.

Every so often, I immediately follow the wash with a Meguiars #26. I will never wax unless I washed first, otherwise (even invisible) dust will cause scratches. Very simple to do, doesn't require a lot of elbow grease. This clearly makes water bead up.

If I'm really feeling work-happy, before I put the #26 on, I'll put a Meguiars #7 (show car glaze). This really does give an amazing deep shine, but needs a #26 afterwards to protect.

For the wax and glaze I use a CLEAN terry cloth to apply, and a CLEAN lint-free diaper-type cloth to remove. I find it important to keep changing the cloth when removing glaze or wax, even if the cloth looks clean, it seems to get clogged up reguarly. Also the applicator cloth gets caked on if not changed frequently enough.

I do one section of the body at a time, so as not to let it dry too long. I believe it's very important to, as all the instructions say, not do this in direct sunlight nor very hot climate. This cases the product to dry out and become very difficult to work with.

That's about it. I use either Armor All Tire stuff or the tire dressing du jour. I do not spray, as the instructions would have you do, because overspray gets onto the paint.

This results in an amazing looking car and a shine that lasts for some time.

Would appreciate any feedback on this, and hope it helps someone.

cheers,
Albert.

EburgE · 03-29-2006, 07:20 AM

Thanks for your write-up. I have been satisfied with Meguiars wax, but have never tried a glaze. Next time I'll try it.

One thing I do different is the tires. I prefer the natural (not shiney) look, so I do not use dressing. Instead I begin my detailing by spraying the rims with Meguiars wheel cleaner. Even after 5000 miles my wheels are always dirty with brake dust.

sanjoyp · 06-13-2006, 02:07 AM

Nothing more to say but read this and this thread is done!

http://www.polishedbliss.co.uk/acatalog/guides.html

soulmn · 06-15-2006, 07:55 PM

I like the thread. thanx. I've had a PC in the shed since winter. No time to practice on the beater car yet to get my technique down. Too chicken to start on the lotus.

soulman

TurnTen · 09-06-2006, 11:55 PM

I've just bought my first Elise, and am new to the forum. I've been reading all the great advice presented in this thread on detailing. But since I'm new to all of this, allow me to ask a somewhat ignorant newbie-style question...

How do I wash this thing?

OK OK, let me explain. All my life I've washed cars in the usual manner. I spray the car off from top to bottom with a garden hose, apply the proper soap and water solution, and then rinse the car off with the same garden hose. But if I do this to my Elise, water and soap will flow into the radiator as well as the engine compartment. Is this normal and OK, or should I attempt to give the car a "sponge bath?" I imagine rain won't hurt the car, so spraying the car down shouldn't either. The owner's manual isn't clear about spraying. Any suggestions?

Thanks in advance!

BTW, my Elise has a hardtop.

dododge · 09-07-2006, 01:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TurnTen

All my life I've washed cars in the usual manner. I spray the car off from top to bottom with a garden hose, apply the proper soap and water solution, and then rinse the car off with the same garden hose. But if I do this to my Elise, water and soap will flow into the radiator as well as the engine compartment. Is this normal and OK,

Should be fine, with one major caveat: do not wash while parked facing uphill! This is true for rain as well, but especially when spraying lots of water at it from the side and other strange angles. Facing downhill or on level ground should be okay, but when facing uphill the water will pool in various places around the engine lid and get into the trunk.

You might also want to lift the engine cover and give it a rinse afterward to make sure the soap is cleared off.

w00tw00t · 10-27-2006, 05:03 PM

Here's an great car detailing guide put together by someone over at the S2KI.com forum for the S2000 - a lot of it applies to any car including a Lotus ...

http://home.comcast.net/~michael.coh..._Hand_Book.pdf

08-22-2005, 04:36 PM	#83 (permalink)
Fighting For Air Yah mon, it's irie !!! Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Oregon Posts: 397	OK... here's one for all you detailing experts. I got a gouge in the starshield on my front end from a flying rock. The hole has got some pretty noticable nasty looking edges. Any way of filling it in or smoothing it out without replacing the entire section of starshield? __________________ - Rob O'

08-22-2005, 05:23 PM	#84 (permalink)
J-Son Registered User Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: long island NY Posts: 546	anyone want something like this: http://www.spyderchat.com/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=22742 seems like someone should make these for the elise. __________________ 2005 Ardent Touring Elise, 2007 Hummer H3, 2007 Infiniti Fx35, 2006 Infiniti M35x (sold), 2002 Audi TT quattro convertible (sold), 1999 Corvette (sold but not forgotten),

09-12-2005, 01:26 PM	#88 (permalink)
pushundersteer Registered User Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: Orange County, CA Posts: 32	I'm glad this thread was revived, I wanted to add a couple of things: 1. I know it's been pointed out, but it hasn't been emphasized enough for me - the dust on your dirty car combined with a high-pressure sprayer (even a normal hose with a good nozzle) become 'sandwater' (like sand paper). It will scratch your paint. A fine mist spray to completely soak the car left for a couple of minutes is a perfect start, to be followed by soapy water and a soft mitt or scrubber is perfect. 2. For those who don't want to take the time to tape all the open seams (like where the door meets the side panel), or who have a car that someone in the past left a wax buildup in those seams, I found a tool that makes removal quick and easy: First, get one of these: It is a surfboard wax comb, most designs will work, but the one pictured here seems to work best, it's called Wahoos wax comb, available from www.9star.com for $1.99, or most surf shops for around the same. It is made out of ABS or similar plastic, a fairly soft compound, which will not scratch paint. Then, starting from the bottom left corner as pictured, cut the comb in half diagonally ending the cut at the upper right corner. Be sure to start in the curved, half-moon shaped section at the left, not in the teeth on the bottom. All the teeth should remain together. A hack saw will go through the thing like butter, and if you put a little oil on the blade first, you won't clog the teeth. Now the corner where you started should have a couple of points of different sizes and angles. I have yet to come across the body panel I couldn't get one of those corners tucked into. You just run it back and forth a bit in the groove, and all the wax will flake right off. Once you get used to it, you can do a whole car in a couple of minutes. The leftover piece makes a great soft scraper, good for getting bird turds and tree sap off the car without scratching the paint. __________________ Matt Jared Holstein (SCC) once wrote of a turbocharged Elise, "A bingo hopper doesn't have enough balls to slide it on the street." Well that may be true, but given the right street at the right time, I do.

12-03-2005, 05:49 PM	#90 (permalink)
autoxelise BRG '06 :) Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: Tacoma, Washington Posts: 243	Griot's is the brand I like. For car detailing and just keeping it pretty, there hasn't been a better soap, wax, sealer... you name it griot's probably has it. Plus, their products aren't ridiculously expensive. Just so you guys know what wax, or other car care product brand I recommend. __________________ Ahh, can't wait to get my Lotus 2000 Honda S2000-Black/Red 1991 Acura NSX Coupe-Black/Black 1998 M-B ML320-White/Gray

03-09-2006, 02:51 PM	#92 (permalink)
LARRY It's a Lotus Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: Beverly Hills, Ca. Posts: 12,089	California Car Cover. In Los Angeles. Evolution car cover in blue. Keeps car clean. Fights dings. Keeps prying eyes and fingers away. What they can't see they don't touch. I swear by 'em - they'll make it custom for the Elise. Put it over the starshield. __________________ 2005 Saffron Yellow Elise, Sports & Touring Packages, Hard Top, Stage II Exhaust, '07 Probax leather seats. Los Angeles Lotus Service by Qais at 310-200-0022. "We know they're magical and worth every minute we spend on them. The whole Lotus owners' world is like a secret handshake among people who understand that." (R&T)

07-06-2005, 03:19 PM	#82 (permalink)
Praksis Registered User Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: chandler, AZ Posts: 98	Being near clueless in the area of auto-detailing, I thought I'd post a link to the single most useful document I've found to educate me on how to take care of my spyder (I only get to drool over the thought of owning an Elise for now) It was written up by Dev on spyderchat, and is perfectly named 'Exterior Detailing 101'. http://www.spyderchat.com/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=20887

08-24-2005, 03:45 AM	#85 (permalink)
soulmn Registered User Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Dover, DE Posts: 434	I like the idea. Just need to get them in starlight black now. soulman

09-11-2005, 08:27 AM	#86 (permalink)
vidoprof Patiently awaiting my car Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: Clearwater, FL Posts: 594	Ok reviving an old thread. So I looked at autopia.org and the whole place recommends SONUS. Is this THE detailers products? or are they just selling their own stuff? I would like an all in one something that I can just order everything and then use them. Or can someone recommend what i should buy from beginning to end for my car. I will primarily use this WHEN i get the elise, but i have a new 05 Acura TL that I will be using this stuff on. Any help would be much appreciated. I was thinking the Meguir's stuff, but then I see Zaino's is pretty good too.. where do I start? Ryan

09-11-2005, 11:22 AM	#87 (permalink)
Vantage Weekend Warrior Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: San Diego / Los Angeles Posts: 4,033	Hi Ryan, DavidB, the owner of Autopia.org, has rights to the Sonus brand here and sells products under the label. I believe it's otherwise a German brand. Autopia does hype a lot of products, but it's not all unwarranted. It's less the product, but the technique you use. I have not tried his entire line, but things that I have tried are very good. His SFX-3 polish (finest of the three) is a great finishing polish and is easy to use with a Porter Cable. I also have his green SFX Ultrafine clay, which is probably the least abrasive clay I have tried. It's great for mid year clean ups where you don't need much bite. I wouldn't hesistate to try all of his products, but there are more than adequate substitues on the market too. There are so many good products on the market that you have to find what you like to use best. The other thing to keep in mind is that no one brand has a complete line of products. Sonus doesn't have a wax or sealant. Zaino is missing some misc. items like a wheel cleaner (though you can just use car wash shampoo). Not a huge fan of Meguiar's, but you still get great results with their products. You could always try Detailer's Paradise's Starter bundle. It has microfiber towels, wash mitt, shampoo, and a lot of little items that are helpful. It doesn't have a real swirl mark remover or pure polish, so you may have to buy that on the side. A lot of this also depends on how much effort you are willing to put into this. How often to rewax, how much polishing you want to do, etc. - J

09-12-2005, 02:57 PM	#89 (permalink)
Vantage Weekend Warrior Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: San Diego / Los Angeles Posts: 4,033	Interesting idea for the seams. Note that for the surface of the paint, it's usually not that towel or item you are using, but the grit or dirt you're trying to wipe away that scratches. I may give that a try for one specific area where scratches will not be visible.

03-28-2006, 08:35 PM	#94 (permalink)
30mpg CO Touring, April '05 Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Stamford, CT Posts: 241 Images: 1	Mine looks great So -- I keep it pretty simple and am happy with my results. Wanted to give those that know better than I do a chance to share thoughts. I use a cheap car-wash fluid. Had been using Zip-Wax Car Wash for about 15 years. Switched to Meguiars Car Wash fluid recently and am equally happy with the results. This leaves a thin layer of protection on the car and water does bead. Of course, I first rince the car with clean water at a low-medium pressure (not high!) and only then use a sheepskin-style sponge. I try to not let any part of the car dry with soap on. Then use a leather chammois to dry. Every so often, I immediately follow the wash with a Meguiars #26. I will never wax unless I washed first, otherwise (even invisible) dust will cause scratches. Very simple to do, doesn't require a lot of elbow grease. This clearly makes water bead up. If I'm really feeling work-happy, before I put the #26 on, I'll put a Meguiars #7 (show car glaze). This really does give an amazing deep shine, but needs a #26 afterwards to protect. For the wax and glaze I use a CLEAN terry cloth to apply, and a CLEAN lint-free diaper-type cloth to remove. I find it important to keep changing the cloth when removing glaze or wax, even if the cloth looks clean, it seems to get clogged up reguarly. Also the applicator cloth gets caked on if not changed frequently enough. I do one section of the body at a time, so as not to let it dry too long. I believe it's very important to, as all the instructions say, not do this in direct sunlight nor very hot climate. This cases the product to dry out and become very difficult to work with. That's about it. I use either Armor All Tire stuff or the tire dressing du jour. I do not spray, as the instructions would have you do, because overspray gets onto the paint. This results in an amazing looking car and a shine that lasts for some time. Would appreciate any feedback on this, and hope it helps someone. cheers, Albert.

03-29-2006, 07:20 AM	#95 (permalink)
EburgE Super 7 Owner In Training Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Eldersburg, MD Posts: 2,416	Thanks for your write-up. I have been satisfied with Meguiars wax, but have never tried a glaze. Next time I'll try it. One thing I do different is the tires. I prefer the natural (not shiney) look, so I do not use dressing. Instead I begin my detailing by spraying the rims with Meguiars wheel cleaner. Even after 5000 miles my wheels are always dirty with brake dust. __________________ '05 Lotus Elise '07 Caterham Seven www.hals7.com

06-13-2006, 02:07 AM	#96 (permalink)
sanjoyp Registered User Join Date: Jun 2006 Posts: 1	Nothing more to say but read this and this thread is done! http://www.polishedbliss.co.uk/acatalog/guides.html

06-15-2006, 07:55 PM	#97 (permalink)
soulmn Registered User Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Dover, DE Posts: 434	I like the thread. thanx. I've had a PC in the shed since winter. No time to practice on the beater car yet to get my technique down. Too chicken to start on the lotus. soulman

09-06-2006, 11:55 PM	#98 (permalink)
TurnTen Registered User Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Southern California Posts: 41	I've just bought my first Elise, and am new to the forum. I've been reading all the great advice presented in this thread on detailing. But since I'm new to all of this, allow me to ask a somewhat ignorant newbie-style question... How do I wash this thing? OK OK, let me explain. All my life I've washed cars in the usual manner. I spray the car off from top to bottom with a garden hose, apply the proper soap and water solution, and then rinse the car off with the same garden hose. But if I do this to my Elise, water and soap will flow into the radiator as well as the engine compartment. Is this normal and OK, or should I attempt to give the car a "sponge bath?" I imagine rain won't hurt the car, so spraying the car down shouldn't either. The owner's manual isn't clear about spraying. Any suggestions? Thanks in advance! BTW, my Elise has a hardtop.

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10-27-2006, 05:03 PM	#100 (permalink)
w00tw00t Registered User Join Date: Sep 2006 Posts: 33	Here's an great car detailing guide put together by someone over at the S2KI.com forum for the S2000 - a lot of it applies to any car including a Lotus ... http://home.comcast.net/~michael.coh..._Hand_Book.pdf __________________ w00t w00t!! 2007 Exige S Aspen White (Delivery Unknown!) ..