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Old 02-23-2006, 11:47 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Need Help with Shear Panel Re-torque

I've read from many previous post that a lot of the rattle noise is a result from the sheer panel and a simple retorque of the fasteners would fix the problem. I'm planning to give this a try. Does anyone know what lb-ft to retorque the fasterners to? Also any other tips from someone who have already done this would be very much appreciated. Thanks.
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Old 02-23-2006, 12:15 PM   #2 (permalink)
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While down there, you might want to stick some small pieces of foam between the shear panel and the gas tank.
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Old 02-23-2006, 03:34 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MattG
While down there, you might want to stick some small pieces of foam between the shear panel and the gas tank.
I did that too.
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Old 02-23-2006, 10:45 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Not sure that is such a good idea in the long run.

Gas tank == steel

Foam + water + gas tank == rust

rust == holes..

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Old 02-24-2006, 03:23 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Maybe I'll use some type of rubber that won't absorb water.

Does anyone know what lb-ft to retorque the fasterners to? Thanks.
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Old 02-25-2006, 10:52 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EliseAtLeast
Maybe I'll use some type of rubber that won't absorb water.

Ahh... but it will still trap moisture. Probably best just to leave it alone.
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Old 02-25-2006, 06:02 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MyElise
Why not just tighten it up a bit and see if the rattle goes away.
It not a problem with it being loose. If the tray bolts are not tightened down properly or in the proper order, the panel can be "bowed" - this flexing is what causes the noise.

The fix should be to loosen all the bolts, and starting with two bolts in the middle on the "long" side (one on each side), tighten them down. Then tighten two in the middle on the short side. Then work your way out to the corners. The idea is to stretch the panel out so that it remains flat. If you start with the corners, you will most likely end up with it bowed in the middle.

It's probably art as much as science...
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Old 02-25-2006, 06:08 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TimMullen
It not a problem with it being loose. If the tray bolts are not tightened down properly or in the proper order, the panel can be "bowed" - this flexing is what causes the noise.

The fix should be to loosen all the bolts, and starting with two bolts in the middle on the "long" side (one on each side), tighten them down. Then tighten two in the middle on the short side. Then work your way out to the corners. The idea is to stretch the panel out so that it remains flat. If you start with the corners, you will most likely end up with it bowed in the middle.

It's probably art as much as science...
Thanks Tim,

Since the Shear panel is structural, I want to make sure I torque the bolts correctly. Does the service manual list what lb-ft to torque them to? I don't have the service manual and I don't think the site that has the download is working yet.
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Old 02-25-2006, 07:23 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EliseAtLeast
Since the Shear panel is structural, I want to make sure I torque the bolts correctly. Does the service manual list what lb-ft to torque them to?
There is nothing directly in the Service Manual specifying the torque values.

From an earlier post:

The only thing even close that I found was the spec that the fuel tank cradle should be tightened to 24 Nm - these are tightened into "nut-zert" type of fittings in the chassis. The under tray screws are held on by "threaded clips", and are probably to be tightened to the highly technical of "tight enough", but not too tight. Which is better than the less technical value of "tighten it till it breaks and then back it off a half a turn". At least the clips are replaceable if you tighten them too tight and strip them.

I'd be very concerned about the fittings that are bonded into the aluminum - but then the 24 Nm might apply to those - but I assume no responsibility if you use that value...


Bottom line is that no one knows (or at least has posted that information) Try to get a feel for how tight they are when you remove the bolts???
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Old 02-25-2006, 08:55 PM   #10 (permalink)
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I hate to admit that I don't know, but where/what exactly is the "shear panel," that you're refering to?
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Old 02-26-2006, 06:42 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by char
I hate to admit that I don't know, but where/what exactly is the "shear panel," that you're refering to?
Tim can give you a much better explanation but basically the Shear Panel is on the bottom of the car (covered by the engine cover panel) and is part of the car's structure. A lot of us have rattle problem due to the Shear Panel bolts not being torqued evenly which causes it to "bow" and rattles against the gas tank. The fix as someone found was to unbolt the Shear Panel and re-torque the bolts correctly.
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Old 02-26-2006, 02:19 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MyElise
Kind of like changing the water pump on your Elan without pulling the head.
Doing that is what caused the massive oil leak around my front cover. Which lead to the "I'm going to do a quick engine rebuild anyway, since I have to pull the engine to remove the the head and oil pan". Which lead to the 16+ year restoration of my Elan (I mean, why not, since I already have the engine out?). All of which lead to the often repeated joke among my friends: "How long does it take to change a water pump in a Lotus? Sixteen years and counting..."
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Old 03-20-2007, 04:41 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EliseAtLeast
Does anyone know what lb-ft to retorque the fasterners to? Also any other tips from someone who have already done this would be very much appreciated. Thanks.
check the label pictured here, http://www.elisetalk.com/forums/show...r+panel+loosen it reads
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Old 03-20-2007, 05:30 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Thanks. Didn't expect to get an answer after over a year.
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Old 03-20-2007, 07:30 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Thanks. Didn't expect to get an answer after over a year.
You wouldn't have if I wasn't struggling with a similar issue today and I'd hadn't come to ET for some help. I just noticed your question still hadn't been answered
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Old 05-22-2007, 09:12 PM   #16 (permalink)
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The shear panel was very noisy on my car... when I tapped it with my hand it rang out quite a bit. I just spent a good deal of time removing and replacing the panel, with some strategically placed sound deadening material (Dynomat).

Now the shear panel is behaving.
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Old 05-15-2009, 06:15 PM   #17 (permalink)
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24Nm converts to 17.7 ft lbs, but my torque wrench only goes down to 20 ft lbs, is the 2.3 ft lbs going to make a big difference?
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Old 05-16-2009, 05:30 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by zygotesoup View Post
24Nm converts to 17.7 ft lbs, but my torque wrench only goes down to 20 ft lbs, is the 2.3 ft lbs going to make a big difference?
anyone? bueller?
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Old 05-17-2009, 12:34 PM   #19 (permalink)
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nm... im an idiot

after researching this problem and assuming it was my shear panel rattling, i ended up renting a crappy torque wrench from advance auto parts to torque the shear panel bolts down, then i get home and realize that one of my carpet buttons had come undone and was underneath my seat making the rattling noise

at least it was an easy fix
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Old 05-17-2009, 12:42 PM   #20 (permalink)
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^^^ LOL

I've also found that the "Y" in the e-brake cabling can rattle against both the shear panel above, and the undertray below... a bit of well placed Velcro loop material makes the sound just about disappear
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