Vanishing Oil Syndrome

[plastique999]

Has anyone ever had issues where they have been burning vast amounts of oil with no sign of leak?
After driving just under 1000 miles since oil change, my dipstick was dry and took 2 1/2 quarts to normalize (I also have Moroso oil pan).

[tsunami racer]

when the car was new, my exige drank oil a bit, but not that terribly much.

my audi RS4 used to consume a quart of oil every 1000 miles and everyone said it was normal.

[milehitom]

Originally Posted by plastique999

Has anyone ever had issues where they have been burning vast amounts of oil with no sign of leak?

Yes. it's called a Fiat Spider I keep a few quarts in my trunk at all times...
It's actually quite normal for a cast-iron block car.

Originally Posted by plastique999

After driving just under 1000 miles since oil change, my dipstick was dry and took 2 1/2 quarts to normalize (I also have Moroso oil pan).

I have an '05 Elise, as well. Zero disappearing oil issues with mine. I'd be tempted to pop the diffuser off and see if there's some oil splatter on the inside. Is it possible that with the Moroso pan, not enough oil was added at the last oil change?

Tom

[fzust]

If you didn't change it yourself, it could be that whoever did it, filled it and then whatever oil drained from the coolers was pumped back in and put you a couple quarts low. The second option is oil dillution. If you have fuel getting past the rings, then it could be dilluting the oil, which makes the oil much more prone to burning in the cylinder and without smoke. Compression & leakdown should tell the tale there. Probably better to top off the oil again and keep an eye on it.

[lt0302]

Originally Posted by plastique999

Has anyone ever had issues where they have been burning vast amounts of oil with no sign of leak?
After driving just under 1000 miles since oil change, my dipstick was dry and took 2 1/2 quarts to normalize (I also have Moroso oil pan).

I have an 05 with the Moroso Oil pan and my plug leaked........when to checkers got a teflon washer for 3 bucks and no problem. Might want to check yours......I know others have had that issue also.......

[fishguy]

make sure to check the oil level before every session that you are tracking you car.

[FLuXeXigeS]

Eddie, you might also want to check the OIL pan itself, i heard of a few people having leaks on them brand new, around the welds...my .02

time for me to check my oil

[plastique999]

Originally Posted by fzust

If you didn't change it yourself, it could be that whoever did it, filled it and then whatever oil drained from the coolers was pumped back in and put you a couple quarts low. The second option is oil dillution. If you have fuel getting past the rings, then it could be dilluting the oil, which makes the oil much more prone to burning in the cylinder and without smoke. Compression & leakdown should tell the tale there. Probably better to top off the oil again and keep an eye on it.

Compression and leak down tests have been done and were normal...

The vanishing oil happened once, as well, before the Moroso oil pan....so that's prob. not it either...

The other quandary is that both times this happened, my oil sensor Never lit up...so I'm assuming the oil sensor is faulty as well...

[apk919]

Originally Posted by plastique999

Compression and leak down tests have been done and were normal...

The vanishing oil happened once, as well, before the Moroso oil pan....so that's prob. not it either...

The other quandary is that both times this happened, my oil sensor Never lit up...so I'm assuming the oil sensor is faulty as well...

The sensor is a pressure sensor, not a level sensor... so even if your oil level is low, but not so low that it's below the pump's pickup in the oil pan, you'll still have pressure. Does the light go on before you start the engine, then go off as soon as it starts? If so, it's probably fine...

[plastique999]

Andy, not sure if the engine lit up then off after start....can't check now as my motor is apart...

So far, I think the oil loss was due to blow by - one of the rings may have been bad

[plastique999]

What are some ways to prevent oil starvation again?
I have the Moroso oil pan, and I will be adding Accusump, as well as sensors for oil pressure and oil temp.
I just want to ensure that this problem won't happen again.

[FLuXeXigeS]

if its due to blow by maybe sleeving the cylinders and getting better piston rings may also help

[Dragon]

Originally Posted by plastique999

Compression and leak down tests have been done and were normal...

If it's not a leak and since the above checked out my next guess would be valve guide seals.

[plastique999]

Originally Posted by FLuXeXigeS

if its due to blow by maybe sleeving the cylinders and getting better piston rings may also help

True Coi, but that would put me in the direction of building out a race engine, and at this point, I'm most concerned about building a Reliable engine.
After our discussion, I decided to replace the short block, and do some "tweaking" for more power and durability.

Originally Posted by Dragon

If it's not a leak and since the above checked out my next guess would be valve guide seals.

This is probably the diagnosis...should know soon as the motor is apart.

[FLuXeXigeS]

Originally Posted by plastique999

True Coi, but that would put me in the direction of building out a race engine, and at this point, I'm most concerned about building a Reliable engine.
After our discussion, I decided to replace the short block, and do some "tweaking" for more power and durability.

are you getting the short block we found online?

[turbophil]

Originally Posted by plastique999

True Coi, but that would put me in the direction of building out a race engine, and at this point, I'm most concerned about building a Reliable engine.
After our discussion, I decided to replace the short block, and do some "tweaking" for more power and durability.



This is probably the diagnosis...should know soon as the motor is apart.

A couple pennies for the jar...

You should be able to pick up a short block for ~1,400 bucks and 9:1 forged pistons from MWR for ~500 bucks. Install them yourself...You'll then have a short block good for all the power you will likely ever run... and be more reliable than stock... You can even reuse the head bolts one time for milder builds like you're probably doing... This can be a very reasonable operation and you'll come out with a heck of a nice setup with a lot of potential...

Best,

Phil

[plastique999]

Originally Posted by FLuXeXigeS

are you getting the short block we found online?

Hey Coi, I actually am replacing with the stock short block...

I am also upgrading the valve springs, installing Accusump, datalogger with sensors, possibly catch cans, and ACT clutch...adding the 2bular decat and GT3 exhaust....gonna be bitchin!

Future: TVS upgrade...

Originally Posted by turbophil

A couple pennies for the jar...

You should be able to pick up a short block for ~1,400 bucks and 9:1 forged pistons from MWR for ~500 bucks. Install them yourself...You'll then have a short block good for all the power you will likely ever run... and be more reliable than stock... You can even reuse the head bolts one time for milder builds like you're probably doing... This can be a very reasonable operation and you'll come out with a heck of a nice setup with a lot of potential...

Best,

Phil

Thanks Phil, I was strongly considering this, and Coi and I were looking at the blocks on the MWR website. I was debating whether or not to upgrade the pistons, but decided not to...perhaps should have

I am following your TVS thread closely, and after my motor is built, I would like to add your kit as an upgrade....
I have seen others upgrading to 255 fuel pump as well...any other suggestions with your kit?

[FLuXeXigeS]

^thats tight eddie, when is the ride gonna be ready?

[plastique999]

Should be picking it up this coming week....new data logger should be sweet!
And I can't wait to spit flames!