Window adjustments - LotusTalk

ishur · 01-03-2008, 11:16 AM

I have been fiddling with the driver's window on my new '07. It rattles, so I first checked the screw everyone talks about at the back of the door, inside. It appears tight, so then I moved to the two adjustment screws on the outside of the door. Snugging those helped the rattle, but then the window hesitates partway while going up, instead of going up smoothly. I worry that this is not normal operation, but I'm also worried about continuing to play with it as I'm not mechanically inclined.

Should I try to get the adjustment screws back to where the window goes up smoothly again and just live with the rattle until the 1000 mile service? Should I leave it alone until the service? Is there some magical way to adjust the screws better other than trial an error? Is one or the other of them the one that causes the window to catch inside?

Please help the mechanically helpless.

codymac · 01-03-2008, 11:22 AM

http://elisetalk.com/forums/showthread.php?t=32509

Lots of other threads - search.

ishur · 01-03-2008, 12:13 PM

I did do a search, that's how I found the posts about the screws I could get to without taking the door panel apart, etc. I'm not prepared to try and start taking things apart as you did...

RegGuy · 01-03-2008, 12:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ishur

I have been fiddling with the driver's window on my new '07. It rattles, so I first checked the screw everyone talks about at the back of the door, inside. It appears tight, so then I moved to the two adjustment screws on the outside of the door. Snugging those helped the rattle, but then the window hesitates partway while going up, instead of going up smoothly. I worry that this is not normal operation, but I'm also worried about continuing to play with it as I'm not mechanically inclined.

Should I try to get the adjustment screws back to where the window goes up smoothly again and just live with the rattle until the 1000 mile service? Should I leave it alone until the service? Is there some magical way to adjust the screws better other than trial an error? Is one or the other of them the one that causes the window to catch inside?

Please help the mechanically helpless.

Does your window actually move or are you hearing a rattle? It is possible that the rattle is the cable inside the door that is causing the rattle. One of the links shows how to tie it down so it stops banging around. My driverside window got loose a bit and rattled, but it actually moved, both when fully up and when partially down. Tightening helped that. However the passenger side window was very tight and still "rattled" that was the cable issue. A quick tiedown fixed that noise. To do so requires removing those four screws on the panel on the door. Nothing to be frightened by really.

codymac · 01-03-2008, 12:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ishur

I did do a search, that's how I found the posts about the screws I could get to without taking the door panel apart, etc. I'm not prepared to try and start taking things apart as you did...

Then you probably want to just take to the dealer - should be a warranty fix.

ishur · 01-03-2008, 02:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RegGuy

Does your window actually move or are you hearing a rattle? It is possible that the rattle is the cable inside the door that is causing the rattle. One of the links shows how to tie it down so it stops banging around. My driverside window got loose a bit and rattled, but it actually moved, both when fully up and when partially down. Tightening helped that. However the passenger side window was very tight and still "rattled" that was the cable issue. A quick tiedown fixed that noise. To do so requires removing those four screws on the panel on the door. Nothing to be frightened by really.

No, I don't think the window is actually moving, so perhaps it's the cable. Maybe I will try removing the panel...or maybe I'll chicken out and do as codymac has suggested. If it's just the cable, it wouldn't hurt to just live with it until I take it in for the first service, I guess. Thanks.

codymac · 01-03-2008, 02:54 PM

Be sure to pull the visors back as far from the windscreen as they'll go too. It sounds odd, but the driver's side has a long tail on it and will smack the windshield as you go over bumps. It's an awful sound and it took me a while to figure out where that one was coming from as it tends to resonate through the cabin.

But, in the end - the actuator cable was smacking the glass in my driver's door when I'd go over bumps and I didn't find that one until I had the door apart to see why my window wouldn't go up (a screw in the track backed out enough to block the guide).

xtn · 01-03-2008, 04:36 PM

There are TWO screws that can be accessed without dismantling the door trim. One on the rear guiderail and one on the front guiderail. Either one could be loose.

xtn

ishur · 01-04-2008, 06:05 AM

Codymac, I don't think it's the visor since I can hear it the worse when I get out of the car and close the door with the window down. I do it as gently as I can but it still sounds horrible--like an old Yugo.

Xtn, I wasn't aware there was one on the front too--I will check that one out, thanks.

Of course, none of this is a big deal in the cosmic scheme of things--I am loving the car regardless.

apk919 · 01-04-2008, 08:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ishur

Of course, none of this is a big deal in the cosmic scheme of things--I am loving the car regardless.

One of the things I love about the car is how simple much of it is... it's a great car to do your own maintenance on and you'll find plenty of support from real enthusiasts here. Just about any question you can have about the car has probably already been covered by one of the forum threads. Enjoy!

xtn · 01-04-2008, 12:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ishur

Xtn, I wasn't aware there was one on the front too--I will check that one out, thanks.

It's located inside the little triangle area that the side mirror mounts to. Use a screw driver to hold open the weather stripping and peek in with a flashlight.

xtn

ishur · 01-04-2008, 12:45 PM

Got it. Thanks!

SGElise · 07-19-2008, 07:07 PM

I think Ishurs window sticking problem is that he turned in the rear adjust nut too much so that the glass-bonded track piece rubs up against the black plastic locking mechanism cover... Thus, that adjust nut only works so far, and is only intended for pressing the top of the glass against the weatherstripping when the glass is all the way up....

I've tightened both guide tracks, but still the driver's side glass rattles when rolled all the way down; while the passenger's glass is tight, up or down...

This leads me to believe the bonded "nylon slider" guides have worn over 3 years of use, so the slide clearance has grown far greater than the passenger side.

When the window is even half-way up, the glass moves around but can't rattle because it's buffered by "felt" lined rubber strips on top of the door body. But when the glass is below the exterior rubber strips, it's free to rattle around it's slide fit on the guide rails.

At some point, the adjuster screws can't make up for this extra clearance, and the nylon sliders keep rattling, no matter what....

So, as I see it, the only choice is to put something on the bottom of the guide rails so the sliders don't rattle...

I used a 5 inch long, 1/4" wide strip of Velcro, the felt-side, on the rear guide rail... Couldn't get my arms into the door panel to reach the front, so there's still some glass movement... but it no longer rattles while on the road... only a little as the door is closed shut.

Once the sliders are cleaned, the Velcro sticks extremely well, I think it'll stick there for at least a few years.

01-03-2008, 11:16 AM	#1 (permalink)
ishur Registered User Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Illinois Posts: 116	Window adjustments I have been fiddling with the driver's window on my new '07. It rattles, so I first checked the screw everyone talks about at the back of the door, inside. It appears tight, so then I moved to the two adjustment screws on the outside of the door. Snugging those helped the rattle, but then the window hesitates partway while going up, instead of going up smoothly. I worry that this is not normal operation, but I'm also worried about continuing to play with it as I'm not mechanically inclined. Should I try to get the adjustment screws back to where the window goes up smoothly again and just live with the rattle until the 1000 mile service? Should I leave it alone until the service? Is there some magical way to adjust the screws better other than trial an error? Is one or the other of them the one that causes the window to catch inside? Please help the mechanically helpless.

01-03-2008, 11:22 AM	#2 (permalink)
codymac short angry bloke Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: where the east tapers out and the west begins Posts: 8,562 Images: 19	http://elisetalk.com/forums/showthread.php?t=32509 Lots of other threads - search. __________________ torque (tôrk) n. - an excuse for the lack of momentum. - let's bring back CanAm & Group B! - have you hugged your Exige today? I'm currently working on my performance driving merit badge. There's always somebody faster, sometimes it's me.

01-03-2008, 02:54 PM	#7 (permalink)
codymac short angry bloke Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: where the east tapers out and the west begins Posts: 8,562 Images: 19	Be sure to pull the visors back as far from the windscreen as they'll go too. It sounds odd, but the driver's side has a long tail on it and will smack the windshield as you go over bumps. It's an awful sound and it took me a while to figure out where that one was coming from as it tends to resonate through the cabin. But, in the end - the actuator cable was smacking the glass in my driver's door when I'd go over bumps and I didn't find that one until I had the door apart to see why my window wouldn't go up (a screw in the track backed out enough to block the guide). __________________ torque (tôrk) n. - an excuse for the lack of momentum. - let's bring back CanAm & Group B! - have you hugged your Exige today? I'm currently working on my performance driving merit badge. There's always somebody faster, sometimes it's me.

01-03-2008, 04:36 PM	#8 (permalink)
xtn McLareghini Bugatterrari Join Date: May 2006 Location: Texas Posts: 5,848	There are TWO screws that can be accessed without dismantling the door trim. One on the rear guiderail and one on the front guiderail. Either one could be loose. xtn __________________ 2006 McLareghini Bugatterrari, Storm Titanium... <mods> installed: air horn, Scroth 4-point ASM harnesses, Sector111 halon extinguisher and mounting bracket, Von Hep exhaust and rear panel delete, Pagid brake pads, red Volks CE28n wheels, Toyo RA-1 tires, Nitron SA coilovers, Sector111 (WorksBell) quick-disconnect steering wheel kit. awaiting installation: Scroth "pull-up" lap belts, Sector111 RTD Brace, Tony's heater bypass mod, and dropped steering rack mounting plates. </mods>

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01-03-2008, 12:13 PM	#3 (permalink)
ishur Registered User Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Illinois Posts: 116	I did do a search, that's how I found the posts about the screws I could get to without taking the door panel apart, etc. I'm not prepared to try and start taking things apart as you did...

01-04-2008, 06:05 AM	#9 (permalink)
ishur Registered User Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Illinois Posts: 116	Codymac, I don't think it's the visor since I can hear it the worse when I get out of the car and close the door with the window down. I do it as gently as I can but it still sounds horrible--like an old Yugo. Xtn, I wasn't aware there was one on the front too--I will check that one out, thanks. Of course, none of this is a big deal in the cosmic scheme of things--I am loving the car regardless.

01-04-2008, 12:45 PM	#12 (permalink)
ishur Registered User Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Illinois Posts: 116	Got it. Thanks!

07-19-2008, 07:07 PM	#13 (permalink)
SGElise Registered User Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Houston Posts: 106	I think Ishurs window sticking problem is that he turned in the rear adjust nut too much so that the glass-bonded track piece rubs up against the black plastic locking mechanism cover... Thus, that adjust nut only works so far, and is only intended for pressing the top of the glass against the weatherstripping when the glass is all the way up.... I've tightened both guide tracks, but still the driver's side glass rattles when rolled all the way down; while the passenger's glass is tight, up or down... This leads me to believe the bonded "nylon slider" guides have worn over 3 years of use, so the slide clearance has grown far greater than the passenger side. When the window is even half-way up, the glass moves around but can't rattle because it's buffered by "felt" lined rubber strips on top of the door body. But when the glass is below the exterior rubber strips, it's free to rattle around it's slide fit on the guide rails. At some point, the adjuster screws can't make up for this extra clearance, and the nylon sliders keep rattling, no matter what.... So, as I see it, the only choice is to put something on the bottom of the guide rails so the sliders don't rattle... I used a 5 inch long, 1/4" wide strip of Velcro, the felt-side, on the rear guide rail... Couldn't get my arms into the door panel to reach the front, so there's still some glass movement... but it no longer rattles while on the road... only a little as the door is closed shut. Once the sliders are cleaned, the Velcro sticks extremely well, I think it'll stick there for at least a few years.

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