Driving Lights in a "Non-PreWired" Elise - Page 2 - LotusTalk

Jim Itin · 03-23-2006, 07:46 AM

Tim and Randy,
I thought that the factory driving light kit contained a new lighting / starter switch panel which has a third lighting switch (on / off for the driving lights). Is this correct? If so, it sounds like for the early cars, the driving lights could be either on or off as long as the high beams were on.
Jim

Randy Chase · 03-23-2006, 08:18 AM

The kit does contain the switch, but the car does not contain the extra wiring for that switch, but one could add some custom wiring and use the switch.

knucklehead · 03-23-2006, 09:22 AM

Hey Randy,
Here's a short description on how to wire the lights so they become driving lights. The post is authored by Ronin.

http://www.elisetalk.com/forums/showthread.php?t=19840

I've driven in front of two cars with this mod and the lights are NOT pointed to blind other drivers.

DragonRider1 · 03-23-2006, 09:55 AM

I'm planning to order the lights here in about a week and would like to set it up so that I can run the driving lights independant of the other lights (same as I have done on all my vehicles). Anyone know what would be needed relay wise to do this?

DragonRider1 · 03-23-2006, 09:57 AM

Naturally his post arrives and pops in after I post mine... (open the ones I want to read then go back through them).. Doh! Thanks Knuck!

knucklehead · 03-23-2006, 10:13 AM

No problemo.
good luck

TimMullen · 03-23-2006, 10:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DragonRider1

I can run the driving lights independent of the other lights

Just keep in mind, the Lotus driving lights are not the typical "fog lights" as used on most other cars. They are very bright Auxiliary HIGH BEAMS. You probably don't want to be using them anyplace that you wouldn't have your regular high beams turned on.

Randy Chase · 03-23-2006, 05:56 PM

The lights themselves were an interesting install. A lot easier I think with the clam off.

Some things noted. I got a lot of little bags of hardware. Some of it made sense. Some did not. As Tim noted, you remove the existing bracket that is attached to the lights and this is discarded. It seems you could reuse the hardware for attaching the new bracket to the lights, but they also give you new stuff. There are also some screws that are close in size, but I am not sure yet what they are for. Make sure you use locking washers.

For attaching the new "bent" bracket (which attaches to the sides of the lights) to the new "flat" bracket (which attaches to the crash structure, there are some small bolts and star washers.

The attachment of the flat bracket to the two holes in the crash structure seemed interesting. They give you 4 black bolts, 4 split lock washers, 4 locking nuts, and 4 expanding nuts. My first attempt was: Bolt head. Locking Washer. Flat Bracket. Crash structure. Locking Nut. Bad idea as the locking nut just pulled out the hole in the crash structure and the light fell onto the ground. So I need a new light.

This would work, if there was larger flat washers to back up the crash structure, or maybe if I did this in the daytime where I could see this was a bad idea.

So I discarded the 4 locking nuts and instead used the supplied 4 expanding nuts. You have to hold these initially to get them to expand and stop rotating, but they worked very well.

Plugging in was easy and they lights work well (except for one broken glass lens) when the brights are on.

I still have the extra switch, relay, and 3-switch panel... so I will think about using is separately switched. Or not.

staggarlee · 03-23-2006, 06:05 PM

Where's a good place to purchase the driving lights kit? I haven't seen it listed on most mentioned parts sites.

Randy Chase · 03-23-2006, 06:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by staggarlee

Where's a good place to purchase the driving lights kit? I haven't seen it listed on most mentioned parts sites.

Your dealer or lotusgarage.com

CALtd · 03-23-2006, 09:17 PM

For those pre-wired cars, thus a 3rd switch for Driving Lights (DL). I propose a new way to function. If the Headlights (HL) are on, then the DL only work in conjunction with the High Beams (HB). If they are off then the DL switch turns on the DL. If the HB are flashed without HL, the DL invert DL if ON and nothing if OFF. In Boolean:

DLon = DLswitch && ((HL && HB) || (!HL && Ign))

See Canyon Lights discussion

30 years ago I knew how to build this in TTL, but how do I do this in 12v auto world?

slaughtr · 06-02-2006, 09:00 AM

I just got my driving lights kit and plan to install them this weekend. I have a later 2005 car so I assume it is prewired for the extra switch. Thing is, I can't see I'll ever want to use the switch. I don't want to mess around with it and have them come on with my normal lights and if I need high beams, I'm going to want the driving lights. Also, I'm not wild about tearing into the dash. Do I have to? Can I just mount the driving lights and hook up to the lights so they come on only with the high beams and leave the dash alone?

TimMullen · 06-02-2006, 09:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by slaughtr

I can't see I'll ever want to use the switch. I don't want to mess around with it and have them come on with my normal lights and if I need high beams, I'm going to want the driving lights. Also, I'm not wild about tearing into the dash. Do I have to?

Yep, you have to. You don't have to take apart much of the dash, just the left hand panel where the light switches are. The you install the new panel, and move the existing switches to it, and plug things together. The switch has a memory, so you can turn on the Driving Lights and forget about them - they will only come on when the high beams are on.

If you wanted to wire it differently, you would still have to take apart the panel and make wiring changes in there, so you might as well do it the way intended...

slaughtr · 06-02-2006, 09:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TimMullen

Yep, you have to. You don't have to take apart much of the dash, just the left hand panel where the light switches are. The you install the new panel, and move the existing switches to it, and plug things together. The switch has a memory, so you can turn on the Driving Lights and forget about them - they will only come on when the high beams are on.

If you wanted to wire it differently, you would still have to take apart the panel and make wiring changes in there, so you might as well do it the way intended...

Thanks, I'll just do as it was intended then. To take out the interior panel...just insert screwdriver and pop out, or will I beak something?

Randy Chase · 06-02-2006, 09:54 AM

There should be two screws up insde the cubby portion.

slaughtr · 06-02-2006, 10:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Randy Chase

There should be two screws up insde the cubby portion.

Thanks Randy, that's why I didn't want to go into the dash, I have a tendancy to rip into things and break them.

Randy Chase · 06-02-2006, 10:38 AM

This one is very easy. Remove the two screws inside the cubby.. rotate out, there are some tabs up at the top. If you do "pry" on dashboard bits with a screwdriver, wrap the flat blade of the tool with blue tape to protect the plastic.

slaughtr · 06-03-2006, 09:19 AM

I'm just starting with the install. How did everyone get the turn signals out. I can't reach behind and I'm afraid of scratching the paint from the outside. Any suggestions?

Randy Chase · 06-03-2006, 09:22 AM

There is a small hole inside the upper left corners of the air intake grill (you may want to snap out the grill).

Put a longer/skinny screwdriver into the hole and carefully feel around until you think the end of the blade is on the plastic snappy thing. Push gently to push in the plastic catch and release the turn signal.

slaughtr · 06-03-2006, 09:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Randy Chase

There is a small hole inside the upper left corners of the air intake grill (you may want to snap out the grill).

Put a longer/skinny screwdriver into the hole and carefully feel around until you think the end of the blade is on the plastic snappy thing. Push gently to push in the plastic catch and release the turn signal.

are you talking about the small hole in the corners of the radiator opening, just below each turn signal? mine are halfway covered in starsheild but I think I know what you mean. Just put a skinny flathead screwdriver in and find a release catch and it will pop out?
Thanks

03-23-2006, 07:46 AM	#21 (permalink)
Jim Itin Registered User Join Date: Aug 2004 Location: Delaware Posts: 472	Tim and Randy, I thought that the factory driving light kit contained a new lighting / starter switch panel which has a third lighting switch (on / off for the driving lights). Is this correct? If so, it sounds like for the early cars, the driving lights could be either on or off as long as the high beams were on. Jim __________________ '62 Alfa Sprint '65 Alfa Spider Veloce (2) '88 Alfa Milano 3.0L '91 Ducati 900 S/S '05 Elise (#0294),Magnetic Blue, Blk Touring, hardtop

03-23-2006, 08:18 AM	#22 (permalink)
Randy Chase Registered User Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: San Diego Posts: 28,282 Images: 761	The kit does contain the switch, but the car does not contain the extra wiring for that switch, but one could add some custom wiring and use the switch. __________________ Please do not PM me. My box is full. Thanks.

03-23-2006, 09:55 AM	#24 (permalink)
DragonRider1 Sports Photographer Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Knoxville, Tn Posts: 1,370	I'm planning to order the lights here in about a week and would like to set it up so that I can run the driving lights independant of the other lights (same as I have done on all my vehicles). Anyone know what would be needed relay wise to do this? __________________ 2005 Elise Ardent Red/Black LSS, TP, HT, Knoxville, TN. Surrounded by: Deal's Gap (318 curves in 11 miles) Cherohala Skyway (45miles of sweeping mountain curves) Devil's Triangle (Deal's Gap but with more attitude) ...and of course, the Great Smokey Mountains Parks! Welcome to Elise Country

03-23-2006, 09:57 AM	#25 (permalink)
DragonRider1 Sports Photographer Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Knoxville, Tn Posts: 1,370	Naturally his post arrives and pops in after I post mine... (open the ones I want to read then go back through them).. Doh! Thanks Knuck! __________________ 2005 Elise Ardent Red/Black LSS, TP, HT, Knoxville, TN. Surrounded by: Deal's Gap (318 curves in 11 miles) Cherohala Skyway (45miles of sweeping mountain curves) Devil's Triangle (Deal's Gap but with more attitude) ...and of course, the Great Smokey Mountains Parks! Welcome to Elise Country

03-23-2006, 05:56 PM	#28 (permalink)
Randy Chase Registered User Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: San Diego Posts: 28,282 Images: 761	The lights themselves were an interesting install. A lot easier I think with the clam off. Some things noted. I got a lot of little bags of hardware. Some of it made sense. Some did not. As Tim noted, you remove the existing bracket that is attached to the lights and this is discarded. It seems you could reuse the hardware for attaching the new bracket to the lights, but they also give you new stuff. There are also some screws that are close in size, but I am not sure yet what they are for. Make sure you use locking washers. For attaching the new "bent" bracket (which attaches to the sides of the lights) to the new "flat" bracket (which attaches to the crash structure, there are some small bolts and star washers. The attachment of the flat bracket to the two holes in the crash structure seemed interesting. They give you 4 black bolts, 4 split lock washers, 4 locking nuts, and 4 expanding nuts. My first attempt was: Bolt head. Locking Washer. Flat Bracket. Crash structure. Locking Nut. Bad idea as the locking nut just pulled out the hole in the crash structure and the light fell onto the ground. So I need a new light. This would work, if there was larger flat washers to back up the crash structure, or maybe if I did this in the daytime where I could see this was a bad idea. So I discarded the 4 locking nuts and instead used the supplied 4 expanding nuts. You have to hold these initially to get them to expand and stop rotating, but they worked very well. Plugging in was easy and they lights work well (except for one broken glass lens) when the brights are on. I still have the extra switch, relay, and 3-switch panel... so I will think about using is separately switched. Or not. __________________ Please do not PM me. My box is full. Thanks.

03-23-2006, 09:22 AM	#23 (permalink)
knucklehead TWRD & Blip advertising Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: Marina del Rey, CA Posts: 3,884	Hey Randy, Here's a short description on how to wire the lights so they become driving lights. The post is authored by Ronin. http://www.elisetalk.com/forums/showthread.php?t=19840 I've driven in front of two cars with this mod and the lights are NOT pointed to blind other drivers.

03-23-2006, 10:13 AM	#26 (permalink)
knucklehead TWRD & Blip advertising Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: Marina del Rey, CA Posts: 3,884	No problemo. good luck

03-23-2006, 06:05 PM	#29 (permalink)
staggarlee Registered User Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: N. VA Posts: 112	Where's a good place to purchase the driving lights kit? I haven't seen it listed on most mentioned parts sites.

03-23-2006, 09:17 PM	#31 (permalink)
CALtd only here to fight fires Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Ocean Beach, CA Posts: 1,150	For those pre-wired cars, thus a 3rd switch for Driving Lights (DL). I propose a new way to function. If the Headlights (HL) are on, then the DL only work in conjunction with the High Beams (HB). If they are off then the DL switch turns on the DL. If the HB are flashed without HL, the DL invert DL if ON and nothing if OFF. In Boolean: DLon = DLswitch && ((HL && HB) \|\| (!HL && Ign)) See Canyon Lights discussion 30 years ago I knew how to build this in TTL, but how do I do this in 12v auto world?

06-02-2006, 09:00 AM	#32 (permalink)
slaughtr Big head man Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Boise, Idaho Posts: 5,957 Images: 3	I just got my driving lights kit and plan to install them this weekend. I have a later 2005 car so I assume it is prewired for the extra switch. Thing is, I can't see I'll ever want to use the switch. I don't want to mess around with it and have them come on with my normal lights and if I need high beams, I'm going to want the driving lights. Also, I'm not wild about tearing into the dash. Do I have to? Can I just mount the driving lights and hook up to the lights so they come on only with the high beams and leave the dash alone?

06-02-2006, 09:54 AM	#35 (permalink)
Randy Chase Registered User Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: San Diego Posts: 28,282 Images: 761	There should be two screws up insde the cubby portion. __________________ Please do not PM me. My box is full. Thanks.

06-02-2006, 10:38 AM	#37 (permalink)
Randy Chase Registered User Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: San Diego Posts: 28,282 Images: 761	This one is very easy. Remove the two screws inside the cubby.. rotate out, there are some tabs up at the top. If you do "pry" on dashboard bits with a screwdriver, wrap the flat blade of the tool with blue tape to protect the plastic. __________________ Please do not PM me. My box is full. Thanks.

06-03-2006, 09:19 AM	#38 (permalink)
slaughtr Big head man Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Boise, Idaho Posts: 5,957 Images: 3	I'm just starting with the install. How did everyone get the turn signals out. I can't reach behind and I'm afraid of scratching the paint from the outside. Any suggestions?

06-03-2006, 09:22 AM	#39 (permalink)
Randy Chase Registered User Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: San Diego Posts: 28,282 Images: 761	There is a small hole inside the upper left corners of the air intake grill (you may want to snap out the grill). Put a longer/skinny screwdriver into the hole and carefully feel around until you think the end of the blade is on the plastic snappy thing. Push gently to push in the plastic catch and release the turn signal. __________________ Please do not PM me. My box is full. Thanks.

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