Driving Lights in a "Non-PreWired" Elise - Page 3 - LotusTalk

slaughtr · 06-05-2006, 07:20 AM

Well, got my driving lights installed.

Thanks Randy for your help over the weekend. Next time feel free to tell me that I should consult the owners manual (found the description of the turning signal removal in there after getting help from you).

Thanks Tim for your excellent write up.

Thanks to who ever it was that wrote the desciption of installing the relay. I would have been lost without that.

They look and work great!

TimMullen · 06-05-2006, 02:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by slaughtr

I should consult the owners manual (found the description of the turning signal removal in there after getting help from you).

I find that removing the turn signal housings to be difficult even after I have done it a couple of times and have read the manual. Even after removing one, I have difficult time with the other side.

At least on mine, there feels like there is a "catch" that I find with the rod/screwdriver, but when I push, nothing happens. It appears that the actual "catch" is slightly behind that one (at least on mine). Once you get the right spot, it pops off easily without having to push hard at all. If you have to push hard and nothing happens, you probably need to move the rod/screw drive slightly back and try again.

There is definitely a feeling of satisfaction when you get them loose...

It's one of those things that is so simple, it can be frustraiting...

Randy Chase · 06-05-2006, 04:48 PM

One of my is very easy. Put slick tires on the car. Drive at 60mph. Slam on the brakes. Out it comes!

tvacc · 07-03-2006, 09:17 PM

Thanks for the excellent write up. I am going to buy these and install them.

tvacc · 08-16-2006, 11:29 PM

Did my lights today. Tim's thread and pictures helped a lot.

My only hang up now is that they only gave me 2 of the small screws that mount the lamp to the bracket...the smaller ones..
Oh well..that is Lotus and I will go out and try and find some tomorrow.

Took me about 2 hours. I had the same problem as Tim. The lip on my turn signal catch is thicker that the other side.

Also...why the heck do they tape the wires so out of the way. It took me a while to get them loose.

Is the spot for the relay under the dash? I think I read that somewhere in Tim's instructions.

I will install the new panel tomorrow and test the lights. Thanks Tim.

slaughtr · 08-17-2006, 06:48 AM

The relay is described in the instructions to be under the dash on the passenger side. It is not. It is on the driver's side, near the middle. You do not need to remove any relays that are already there. Find the blank spot and stick it there.

goelise · 08-18-2006, 10:35 AM

For the relay - mine ('06) was on it's own little box meant for just 1 relay. Accessible from the driver's side and near the middle.

TimMullen · 02-15-2007, 02:00 PM

I thought I posted this in this thread, but apparently I never got around to it. The two screws that you need to remove to get the light panel out of the car are not Phillips head screws, they are Posix Head Screws. They are close to Phillips and Phillips screwdrivers usually work, but it will be easier and the tool will fit better if you use a Posix bit in your screwdriver - the difference is that the Posix bits are not quite as pointy and the cross blades are a bit thicker. Using a Phillips on a Posix increases the risk of stripping the screw head, but for small light duty screws like this one, you probably will not notice the difference.

If you don't have any Posix bits, you probably ought to gets some if you plan on working on the Elise - there's a lot of them on the car.

Notorious L.R.G. · 05-05-2007, 03:03 PM

On a federal car, the driver side IS the passenger side, so it seems you have to reverse the instructions regarding the relay.

I tried omitting the switch panel and the lights would not come on, so if you are wired for the switch you have to put it in. (I would always leave it on.)

My mounting brackets were preinstalled, which is good, because I would have thought I screwed it up if I installed them like that. They used the funny looking crush washers at the factory.

The first ridge under the signal lights is the fiberglas body. Feel that first and then go lower to find the proper place to push.

Final note, the new switch for the driving lamps is a tight fit into the dashboard. It is longer, due to its "memory" and it HAS to go there. It will fit if you flex the panel as you insert it.

WHEW! (What an easy install!

)

TheViper · 05-05-2007, 03:44 PM

Maybe this will help

tvacc · 05-05-2007, 05:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TimMullen

If you don't have any Posix bits, you probably ought to gets some if you plan on working on the Elise - there's a lot of them on the car.

Where do you get Posix bits...?

Notorious L.R.G. · 05-05-2007, 05:31 PM

There seem to be a few of them in every set of bits I have. They look like Phillips head, but they are not "sharp".

ChrisB · 05-05-2007, 06:00 PM

Posix bits are found in a computer. I assume you are refering to Pozidriv bits.

TimMullen · 05-07-2007, 08:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tvacc

Where do you get Posix bits...?

Sorry, that should have been Posi bits (it's one of those things that different sources call it slightly different things - Posi; Posix; Pozi; Pozix; etc. The big thing is that the blades on the Posi drivers don't taper like the Phillips driver do. There is also slightly less of a point to the Posi driver than the Phillips - this tends to keep Phillips driver from fully seating in the Posi headed screws (the point bottoms out before the blades make complete contact).

Sears has a three bit set: http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...id=00926493000 (if that doesn't bring it up, search the sears site for "posi bit") for $3.99. Many bit sets include them with the bits. They look similar to the Phillips with the addition of slight extra ribs in the driver, and a "square" in the middle of the slot along with "tick marks" on the head of the screw.

The first photo show the difference between the drivers, the red arrow points to the "rib" on the posi driver. The green arrow points at the tapered end of the Phillips - not the Posi blades don't taper to a point as the Phillips blades do.

The second diagram shows various types of screw heads. Note the small square where the blades cross in the center of the Posi, and the "tick marks" between the blade slots.

TheViper · 05-18-2007, 12:37 PM

On sale at Sears tomorrow, Saturday 5/19 only.
On line it is $34.99, in store $29.99, Sale $14.99

83 pc. insert bit set of insert bits includes: 1 and 2 in. Phillips, square, Pozi, slotted and Torx insert bits and nut drivers for most household projects.

Samurai · 06-01-2007, 10:11 AM

Does anyone have some good ideas as to how to get the plugs out, without having to take the clam off? I got the passenger plug out with no problem... the driver side is another story. Whoever put this thing in was extra sadistic. The wire was taped just like the other side, but it is wrapped\taped to further down to what almost looks to be the depth of the nose badge. Now I admit that I workout and I am no spring chicken, but I there is no way I can even get 1/4 of my forearm into the turn signal hole. I am think about a long rod and a light coming through the other side to poke at it...

Dan

slaughtr · 06-01-2007, 10:34 AM

I used one of those spring loaded long grabber thingys.

Notorious L.R.G. · 06-01-2007, 05:01 PM

That seems to be what everyone finds. The tape must be removed first.
I freed the closer end and kinda pulled down, tucked under and pulled down again. To finally unravel and free the plug my wife and I each poked from opposite ends with long screwdrivers. Even her arms were not thin enough to reach in very far. We did it in one session. Don't give up.

Samurai · 06-04-2007, 10:11 AM

Still no luck on the wire... it looks like I am going to have to remove the clam to get to it.

I looked at the mounting brackets and I do not see how the lights mount to them. Are they different (right\left)? Is there a spacers that need to be installed between the brackets and the car? The holes on my brackets are so close the the car the light bracket will not go behind it and line up with the hole.

06-03-2006, 11:03 AM	#41 (permalink)
Randy Chase Registered User Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: San Diego and where ever the roads lead Posts: 28,175 Images: 761	Yes. __________________ * V E R I T A S * A E Q U I T A S * No Longer the ADMIN here, please do not PM me asking for help. Thanks! http://www.facebook.com/randychase 1991 Toyota MR2. AutoX Beast 2006 Noble M400. Track weapon. 2009 Rossion Q1. Monaco Orange. Canyon Carver. In build: 2009 Toniq R (300whp? 1100 pounds?). Chrome Orange. Lexus GX-470 tow vehicle. On Order: Lotus Evora Next: McLaren MP4-12C

06-05-2006, 04:48 PM	#44 (permalink)
Randy Chase Registered User Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: San Diego and where ever the roads lead Posts: 28,175 Images: 761	One of my is very easy. Put slick tires on the car. Drive at 60mph. Slam on the brakes. Out it comes! __________________ * V E R I T A S * A E Q U I T A S * No Longer the ADMIN here, please do not PM me asking for help. Thanks! http://www.facebook.com/randychase 1991 Toyota MR2. AutoX Beast 2006 Noble M400. Track weapon. 2009 Rossion Q1. Monaco Orange. Canyon Carver. In build: 2009 Toniq R (300whp? 1100 pounds?). Chrome Orange. Lexus GX-470 tow vehicle. On Order: Lotus Evora Next: McLaren MP4-12C

07-03-2006, 09:17 PM	#45 (permalink)
tvacc Head LOONY Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: Buffalo, NY Posts: 2,226	Thanks for the excellent write up. I am going to buy these and install them. __________________ Tony Vaccaro 2005 Ardent Red, Katana Supercharger, Touring, Hardtop, Driving Lights, HIDs, Rear Window Shield, Red Mounts, Laser Shifters, V1, LETSLA Shifter, www.lotusowners.com LOONY (Lotus Owners of New York) and the Church of the HolyLotus Supplier of Polycarbonate Shield for Rear Window IN STOCK , Drive Fast Take Chances

08-16-2006, 11:29 PM	#46 (permalink)
tvacc Head LOONY Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: Buffalo, NY Posts: 2,226	Did my lights today. Tim's thread and pictures helped a lot. My only hang up now is that they only gave me 2 of the small screws that mount the lamp to the bracket...the smaller ones.. Oh well..that is Lotus and I will go out and try and find some tomorrow. Took me about 2 hours. I had the same problem as Tim. The lip on my turn signal catch is thicker that the other side. Also...why the heck do they tape the wires so out of the way. It took me a while to get them loose. Is the spot for the relay under the dash? I think I read that somewhere in Tim's instructions. I will install the new panel tomorrow and test the lights. Thanks Tim. __________________ Tony Vaccaro 2005 Ardent Red, Katana Supercharger, Touring, Hardtop, Driving Lights, HIDs, Rear Window Shield, Red Mounts, Laser Shifters, V1, LETSLA Shifter, www.lotusowners.com LOONY (Lotus Owners of New York) and the Church of the HolyLotus Supplier of Polycarbonate Shield for Rear Window IN STOCK , Drive Fast Take Chances

08-17-2006, 06:48 AM	#47 (permalink)
slaughtr Big head man Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Boise, Idaho Posts: 5,953 Images: 3	The relay is described in the instructions to be under the dash on the passenger side. It is not. It is on the driver's side, near the middle. You do not need to remove any relays that are already there. Find the blank spot and stick it there. __________________ My car both sucks and blows. Now with added all natural smoky goodness!

06-05-2006, 07:20 AM	#42 (permalink)
slaughtr Big head man Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Boise, Idaho Posts: 5,953 Images: 3	Well, got my driving lights installed. Thanks Randy for your help over the weekend. Next time feel free to tell me that I should consult the owners manual (found the description of the turning signal removal in there after getting help from you). Thanks Tim for your excellent write up. Thanks to who ever it was that wrote the desciption of installing the relay. I would have been lost without that. They look and work great!

08-18-2006, 10:35 AM	#48 (permalink)
goelise AR #1275 Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Midwest, USA Posts: 2,527 Images: 1	For the relay - mine ('06) was on it's own little box meant for just 1 relay. Accessible from the driver's side and near the middle. __________________ '06 Ardent Red Elise - black interior with LSS, Touring, HT, Starshield, Lotus Sport Clutch, Moroso Oil Pan, 2ZZ(#2), Ekological HIDs, Lotus Driving Lights, Stebel Horn, Bootie, Razo '06 Pedal mod,Snorkel Delete,Odyssey 680 with s111 bracket. Future Mods:LETSLA (ordered), Rear toe link brace Thank you FVMC! WOO-HOO!

02-15-2007, 02:00 PM	#49 (permalink)
TimMullen Moderator Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Chantilly, VA Posts: 11,389 Images: 19	I thought I posted this in this thread, but apparently I never got around to it. The two screws that you need to remove to get the light panel out of the car are not Phillips head screws, they are Posix Head Screws. They are close to Phillips and Phillips screwdrivers usually work, but it will be easier and the tool will fit better if you use a Posix bit in your screwdriver - the difference is that the Posix bits are not quite as pointy and the cross blades are a bit thicker. Using a Phillips on a Posix increases the risk of stripping the screw head, but for small light duty screws like this one, you probably will not notice the difference. If you don't have any Posix bits, you probably ought to gets some if you plan on working on the Elise - there's a lot of them on the car. __________________ Tim Mullen --- There is no such thing as Touring suspension or Touring wheels. I love being married. It's so great to find that one person that you want to annoy for the rest of your life. - Rita Rudner Chantilly, VA http://members.cox.net/elans4/ 05 Lotus Elise - Chrome Orange - No Touring - No LSS - No Hardtop - Lotus Driving Lights - Lotus "Chin Guards" - plain and simple. 94 Miata R Package - Black 72 Lotus Elan Sprint - Colorado Orange/Cirrus White

05-05-2007, 03:03 PM	#50 (permalink)
Notorious L.R.G. Oh, NOW I get it! Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Georgia, U.S.A. Posts: 457	On a federal car, the driver side IS the passenger side, so it seems you have to reverse the instructions regarding the relay. I tried omitting the switch panel and the lights would not come on, so if you are wired for the switch you have to put it in. (I would always leave it on.) My mounting brackets were preinstalled, which is good, because I would have thought I screwed it up if I installed them like that. They used the funny looking crush washers at the factory. The first ridge under the signal lights is the fiberglas body. Feel that first and then go lower to find the proper place to push. Final note, the new switch for the driving lamps is a tight fit into the dashboard. It is longer, due to its "memory" and it HAS to go there. It will fit if you flex the panel as you insert it. WHEW! (What an easy install! )

05-05-2007, 03:44 PM	#51 (permalink)
TheViper Alarmed & Dangerous Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: Boca Raton FL Posts: 3,205	Maybe this will help Attached Images __________________ Cobra OEM - Alarm, Immobilizer, CDL Emergency Override with warranty Additional Emergency Touch Keys - see link above Brand New Cobra Alarm Remote with warranty Cobra Remote Key Fob Strap Cobra Window Closing Module - Add to your existing Cobra alarm 3 Piece Front Clam Protection Kit with Center Bumper Undertray Removal Tool INFORMATION Improved AC & Heating System Battery Choices & Information Remote Key Fob, Alarm & Immobilizer Programming Light Bulb Conversions 2005

05-05-2007, 05:31 PM	#53 (permalink)
Notorious L.R.G. Oh, NOW I get it! Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Georgia, U.S.A. Posts: 457	There seem to be a few of them in every set of bits I have. They look like Phillips head, but they are not "sharp".

05-05-2007, 06:00 PM	#54 (permalink)
ChrisB I'm Lovin' It! Join Date: Oct 2003 Location: Newport Beach, CA Posts: 3,968 Images: 1	Posix bits are found in a computer. I assume you are refering to Pozidriv bits.

05-18-2007, 12:37 PM	#56 (permalink)
TheViper Alarmed & Dangerous Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: Boca Raton FL Posts: 3,205	On Sale tomorrow only On sale at Sears tomorrow, Saturday 5/19 only. On line it is $34.99, in store $29.99, Sale $14.99 83 pc. insert bit set of insert bits includes: 1 and 2 in. Phillips, square, Pozi, slotted and Torx insert bits and nut drivers for most household projects. Attached Images __________________ Cobra OEM - Alarm, Immobilizer, CDL Emergency Override with warranty Additional Emergency Touch Keys - see link above Brand New Cobra Alarm Remote with warranty Cobra Remote Key Fob Strap Cobra Window Closing Module - Add to your existing Cobra alarm 3 Piece Front Clam Protection Kit with Center Bumper Undertray Removal Tool INFORMATION Improved AC & Heating System Battery Choices & Information Remote Key Fob, Alarm & Immobilizer Programming Light Bulb Conversions 2005

06-01-2007, 10:11 AM	#57 (permalink)
Samurai Registered User Join Date: Oct 2003 Location: Atlanta Posts: 302	Does anyone have some good ideas as to how to get the plugs out, without having to take the clam off? I got the passenger plug out with no problem... the driver side is another story. Whoever put this thing in was extra sadistic. The wire was taped just like the other side, but it is wrapped\taped to further down to what almost looks to be the depth of the nose badge. Now I admit that I workout and I am no spring chicken, but I there is no way I can even get 1/4 of my forearm into the turn signal hole. I am think about a long rod and a light coming through the other side to poke at it... Dan

06-01-2007, 10:34 AM	#58 (permalink)
slaughtr Big head man Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Boise, Idaho Posts: 5,953 Images: 3	I used one of those spring loaded long grabber thingys. __________________ My car both sucks and blows. Now with added all natural smoky goodness!

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06-01-2007, 05:01 PM	#59 (permalink)
Notorious L.R.G. Oh, NOW I get it! Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Georgia, U.S.A. Posts: 457	That seems to be what everyone finds. The tape must be removed first. I freed the closer end and kinda pulled down, tucked under and pulled down again. To finally unravel and free the plug my wife and I each poked from opposite ends with long screwdrivers. Even her arms were not thin enough to reach in very far. We did it in one session. Don't give up.

06-04-2007, 10:11 AM	#60 (permalink)
Samurai Registered User Join Date: Oct 2003 Location: Atlanta Posts: 302	Still no luck on the wire... it looks like I am going to have to remove the clam to get to it. I looked at the mounting brackets and I do not see how the lights mount to them. Are they different (right\left)? Is there a spacers that need to be installed between the brackets and the car? The holes on my brackets are so close the the car the light bracket will not go behind it and line up with the hole.