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Old 10-12-2005, 09:45 AM   #21 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tyger
I'm not sure I understand. Under normal circumstances, you'd hook up to the other battery at which point you can unlock your doors with the fob, then get in and start the car. If the fob really does not work at all, you'll have a problem with the immobiliser anyway.
Unless the doors are locked and the alarm backup battery is dead, then you have no way to unlock the doors.
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Old 10-12-2005, 09:46 AM   #22 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by TimMullen
Modifying wiring and using vampire taps is a great way to cause corrosion and electrical problems down the road in a few years...
That's why I wrapped the wire.
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Old 10-12-2005, 09:52 AM   #23 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by TimMullen
Knowing which wire to jump to open the doors is the important thing here. All you really need is a piece of wire with a clip on one end. In the unlikely even that you are locked out, unclip the connector on the inertia switch, clip the wire to the positive post on the battery, and touch the other end to the proper terminal in the connector. No need to cut up and modify the wiring for the safety switch...
Ding....Ding....Ding!!!!

I knew sooner or later we would agree on something Tim.

Thanks very much ScottyB.
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Old 10-12-2005, 10:37 AM   #24 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TimMullen
Knowing which wire to jump to open the doors is the important thing here. All you really need is a piece of wire with a clip on one end. In the unlikely even that you are locked out, unclip the connector on the inertia switch, clip the wire to the positive post on the battery, and touch the other end to the proper terminal in the connector. No need to cut up and modify the wiring for the safety switch...
I was thinking about the same as Tim, but with the alarm going off do you want to be fumbling around unhooking the connector (sometimes they can be tough), getting the wire out, pulling the battery cover off, and hooking it up when you could just push a button? You could carry the second FOB in the trunk.

So will I do this mod? Don't know have to give it some more thought.
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Last edited by Bruce : 10-12-2005 at 10:39 AM.
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Old 10-12-2005, 10:40 AM   #25 (permalink)
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Using the inertia switch harness -- that's clever!

I don't need something as convenient as a button, but in a bind, I think I could coerce a paper clip into service.
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Old 10-12-2005, 10:41 AM   #26 (permalink)
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You could also hide the momentary switch somewhere on the exterior...
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Old 10-12-2005, 10:45 AM   #27 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Ground Loop
I don't need something as convenient as a button, but in a bind, I think I could coerce a paper clip into service.
It would take a mighty long paper clip to reach to the battery. The other leads in that connector aren't hot unless the ignition key is on.
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Last edited by Bruce : 10-12-2005 at 10:47 AM.
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Old 10-12-2005, 10:46 AM   #28 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bruce
with the alarm going off do you want to be fumbling around unhooking the connector (sometimes they can be tough),
I believe the alarm only goes off for a couple of minutes then it automatically silences until set off again (i.e. motion sensor). I believe (but haven't tested) that opening the engine cover would trigger the alarm, but once it shuts off, it would stay off.
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Old 10-12-2005, 10:49 AM   #29 (permalink)
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I've also wondered if you would give the inertia switch a good "whack" , would it trip the switch? It's supposed to trip in an impact, so would "simulating" an impact should cause it to trip...
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Old 10-12-2005, 10:52 AM   #30 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scottyb
Unless the doors are locked and the alarm backup battery is dead, then you have no way to unlock the doors.
But the alarm's primary power source is the vehicle battery. When you hook it up for a jump everything ought then to work. The "backup" battery is just there to sound the alarm when someone cuts the main power to it.
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Old 10-12-2005, 11:20 AM   #31 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by TimMullen
I've also wondered if you would give the inertia switch a good "whack" , would it trip the switch? It's supposed to trip in an impact, so would "simulating" an impact should cause it to trip...
Yes, you can trip it but the locks wouldn't open because that circuit is not hot unless the ignition key is on.
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Old 10-12-2005, 11:30 AM   #32 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Tyger
But the alarm's primary power source is the vehicle battery. When you hook it up for a jump everything ought then to work. The "backup" battery is just there to sound the alarm when someone cuts the main power to it.
If your main battery is dead, and the alarm backup battery is dead, then your alarm system needs to be reinitialized (no memory). So it is doubtful that the alarm would recognize the FOBs.
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Old 10-12-2005, 11:33 AM   #33 (permalink)
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I've also wondered if you would give the inertia switch a good "whack" , would it trip the switch? It's supposed to trip in an impact, so would "simulating" an impact should cause it to trip...
Have you looked at it's position in the engine bay. I doubt you would be able to give it a good wack without hitting something else. I did try this when I got locked out of my car.
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Old 10-12-2005, 12:11 PM   #34 (permalink)
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How about connecting this circuit to a receiver which pairs with a low power transmitter that you carry on your keychain so that when you get close to the car, the doors automatically unlock. That would be convenient. Would need to be secure though, so I guess it would have to transmit some sort of a digital signal, and I can't imagine how the transmitter would work for very long without needing a new battery. Don't late-model Vettes have this feature? How do they do it? Perhaps the parts could be sourced from one of those cars.
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Old 10-15-2005, 08:07 PM   #35 (permalink)
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I drove my Elise today!!! First time in 4 weeks. Anyway I purposely hit my emergency door unlock switch while the engine was running. It didn’t trip the inertia reset switch (that was a concern I had given Lucus Wiring Gremlins). I was a little worried that if something hit the switch while I was driving, it might trip the inertia switch and cut off my fuel pump. Well my initial review of the schematics were correct and all it did was unlock the doors. So if someone was to do this mod, and something hit the switch while hard cornering, all it would do is unlock the doors. I don’t know about you guys, but I rarely lock my car doors while I’m driving, so it’s no big deal for me if something in my boot would hit the switch while cornering.
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Old 10-16-2005, 10:03 AM   #36 (permalink)
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When I am strapped in the harness on the track I doubt that I could reach the switch let alone find it quickly in an emergency. Another surprising ergonomic error.
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Old 10-16-2005, 07:17 PM   #37 (permalink)
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When I am strapped in the harness on the track I doubt that I could reach the switch let alone find it quickly in an emergency. Another surprising ergonomic error.
I’m not sure what you mean by that statement. The emergency switch is if you are locked out of the car and your FOB’s don’t work.
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Old 10-16-2005, 07:54 PM   #38 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MyElise
When I am strapped in the harness on the track I doubt that I could reach the switch let alone find it quickly in an emergency. Another surprising ergonomic error.

?? But you probably could reach the door unlock switch on the center console, although I'm not sure why you'd want to lock the doors in the first place when you're in the car and on the track.
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Old 05-22-2006, 10:13 PM   #39 (permalink)
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Lets say you tend to lock your keys inside your car quiet often. Would this work mod work if you made the switch hidden somewhere where you would NOT need to open up the trunk to get to. Lets say hide it somewhere hard to reach but only you knew about to open the door?
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Old 05-22-2006, 10:28 PM   #40 (permalink)
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Am I being a complete idiot here? Can't you unlock the doors... with the key?
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