Nxt Mod: Replace Stock Gauge Cluster with DASH2

[charliex]

its 29, its lame that its not a settable divisor, it probably has the ability to do it, just needs a software change.

[turbophil]

Originally Posted by charliex

its 29, its lame that its not a settable divisor, it probably has the ability to do it, just needs a software change.

If the definition of being lame has to do with the divisor being settable, then fear not, as it's still not lame The divisor is settable to whatever the user defines. However, for some reason-- just the Dash2 (i.e. not the DL-1) runs out of "capacity" after about 80mph at your 29p/min. It has plenty of capacity for "normal" wheel speed sensors, it just runs short with such a high pulse rate. For instance at ~16 p/min, it will log odo readings to 160mph, at 8 p/min it will register up to 320mph and so on. Most non-ABS wheel speed sensors trigger 1-4 p/min so it's not an issue in *most* cases. No doubt that a firmware update could probably cure the glitch, but the fact is that it's simply not a big issue. Short of myself and John, I don't think anyone has attempted such "drastic" mod on the stock dash.... or those that have, haven't finished it, so why the fuss?? It's a killer mod (IMO) with hardly any strings attached.... and is certainly not lame...

Best,

Phil

[charliex]

Installing a $250 sensor to fix something that could probably be done in a couple of lines of code for a dash that runs for $1000 ? so the sensor is a quarter of the price of the dash, that is indeed lame.

but i suppose there is little point having the divisor settable that high if the units hardware is too slow to handle it, but 29 pulse per revolution isn't exactly what i'd call high.

[2-Y-CHROMOSOMES]

Originally Posted by charliex

Installing a $250 sensor to fix something that could probably be done in a couple of lines of code for a dash that runs for $1000 ? so the sensor is a quarter of the price of the dash, that is indeed lame.

but i suppose there is little point having the divisor settable that high if the units hardware is too slow to handle it, but 29 pulse per revolution isn't exactly what i'd call high.

I knew you were a Software guy at heart.

[turbophil]

Ah come on Charlie, you're changing your definition of lame hehehe, I'm just giving you a hard time...

Actually they limited the user settings to 12000 pulses per mile from the factory for that very reason. I personally asked them to send me a custom firmware update that would allow me unlimited user input to see if the hardware could deal with ~24,000 pulses per mile that our cars put out. What was *not* lame is that they sent me the unlocked firmware within about 2 hours of asking for it. But as I found out, the dash2 hardware isn't as advanced as the DL-1 hardware to pick up the high pulse numbers of our ABS sensors.

You have to remember this dash was designed for race cars that typically don't have ABS wheel speed sensors simply there to pick up odometer readings. Most race cars would wire independent wheel speed sensors to the DL-1 and then have the DL-1 feed the dash2 through the serial port. This issue is exclusively related to the odometer which they have setup to only take input from a hardwired wheel speed sensor and not the GPS...

Also this system is under $1,700 (complete with DL-1 or 600 for the dash2 alone) and has all the "stuff" needed for a street legal dash, complete with idiot lights and a ton of user input and customizable tools along with some of the best and most widely used data logging software out there via the DL-1. It also can install cleanly into our binnacles with a little creativity. So if a slight work-around is needed to fix a odometer specific issue above 80mph then so be it...

I personally hate suction cup loggers or the added pod-type devices/gauges cluttering up my already small cabin when something like this will do as good or, in this case, a better job. If you come up with a comparably clean installable and comprehensive solution to monitoring a multitude of things on the car, logging, and analysis, I'd be happy to give it a try. Until then, I appreciate your ideas to help solve a problem like the one mentioned above (as you did on Monkey, and thanks for that)...

Best,

Phil

[rob13572468]

Originally Posted by charliex

Installing a $250 sensor to fix something that could probably be done in a couple of lines of code for a dash that runs for $1000 ? so the sensor is a quarter of the price of the dash, that is indeed lame.

but i suppose there is little point having the divisor settable that high if the units hardware is too slow to handle it, but 29 pulse per revolution isn't exactly what i'd call high.

I agree with this they should have it work off the bat by doing a bug fix.

Additionally the easiest workaround besides fixing the dash is to use a CAN to speed pulse converter. 4 wires at the obd plug and proper pulse out.

[Tang0_au]

are you able to map what gear you are in ? if so, how did you do it ?

[reganfin]

About the BASIC Stamp Microcontroller

easy to program & very versatile. i havent used one in this application but you should be able to use something like this to divide the pulse frequency from the wheel sensor and reformat the output to your heart's content. you can pick up a basic beginners kit with parts for about 50 buck on ebay.

[RoadDad]

Originally Posted by turbophil

Also this system is under $1,700 (complete with DL-1 or 600 for the dash2 alone)

Phil,

Where can you purchase a Dash2 for $600 or am I reading that wrong? Direct from RT the Dash2 is $965...

You can PM me your discount code if you want .

[MaineLotus]

I bought Dash2 and DL1 as a package deal, check out the Race Technology website.

[turbophil]

Originally Posted by RoadDad

Phil,

Where can you purchase a Dash2 for $600 or am I reading that wrong? Direct from RT the Dash2 is $965...

You can PM me your discount code if you want .

Hehe, I wish I had a code to give you You just have to catch their "specials". They're often running one and they're not in the internet. Simply call Al Seim (US Racetech distributor) to get pricing. Often times it's a package deal. If I recall correctly I paid 1,600 for the DL-1 and Dash2 combo...

Originally Posted by Tang0_au

are you able to map what gear you are in ? if so, how did you do it ?

You bet, it's one of the most basic features (like RPM and speed). The Dash2 actuallly shows what gear you're in (as seen in the pics of the unit that I posted). Anything it displays can/will be recorded through the DL-1. The gear is figured through by the Dash2 via math. You simply input the gear ratios and final drive of the tranny (available in your owners manual) and then it figures out what gear you're in for display and mapping purposes...

Best,

Phil

[robains]

Phil,

Great work!! I have similar plans for my IQ3 dash and yes the gear display is cool, you also have to input your drive wheel diameter.

Does you 05 Elise have an immobilizer? If so, how did you get around the bond between the immobilizer and the stock dash? If I unplug my stock dash, the car will not start. Is this unique to 07 Exige S?

Any assistance is most welcome.

Thanks, Rob.

P.S. Agree on the sensors, way over priced. I'm sure when RackPak release their CanBus module it'll be the same ridiculous price.

[MaineLotus]

Morning Phil,

Did you wire in the oil pressure sensor? Thanks for the help, planning to finish wiring the dash this weekend.

Regard,

John

[turbophil]

Hey John,

Man, that's really coming together nicely! As always, well done!

Embarrassingly enough, I've still not got around to wiring in oil system monitoring. I've been taking my oiling system for granted for sure---probably not the best car to be so cavalier given the reputation the oil pump has, but oh well... I'm quasi looking forward to an engine build anyway

When I do wire the oil pressure in, I plan to simply remove the switch type sensor that's in the car now and replace with a true variable pressure sensor. Racetech has very nice sensors and theirs are the ones that I've been using. They're pricey, but high quality...

To expand on that, I've also thought about simply tapping into the stock on/off oil pressure sensor. It would be super easy to figure out what the voltage out is with engine off (no pressure) and engine running (pressure) and just tell the Dash2 to flash a warning if the no pressure voltage is reached... I just haven't had time to do either at this point...

I can't recall, did you add the DL-1 as well?

Best,

Phil

[MaineLotus]

Hi Phil,

Thanks! The Dash and DL1 wiring is almost done. I'd like to tap into the existing oil pressure sensor located on the sandwich plate. Do you see any problems with that? I did buy the DL-1, my goal is to log everything possible - boost, temps, speed, RPM, fuel pressure, boost temps (pre/post chargecooler), H20 temps, AFR, etc. It's a bit of work setting all this up, but hopefully will be worthwhile.

I did see the RaceTech sensors, they are pricey. Is the OEM oil sensor not the correct type? Not familiar with the sensor types out there.

How did you pick up RPM? I have a MSD 8918, which I think will work.

Regard,

John

[robains]

Since I've done some of this already for my RackPak IQ3 Dash/Data Logger.

I use the same MSD 8918 on cylinder #4 coil pak wire (green), works very well.

I was told the stock oil pressure unit is more an ON/OFF trigger and not very accurate -- I can't confirm this -- I ended up using a T for stock and RackPak oil pressure sensors.

Suggest you look into running an EGT also -- I put one on what I believe is going to be the hot cylinder (#4).

[ItsThaMonsta]

About 6 months or so I seen a digital dash similar to this in a Lotus thats owned by a guy I know. His name is Jason... I think he has the BWR turbo in his car. And I also know he has an engine cut-off switch in the back. Maybe someone here knows who I am referring to. Black lotus.

[turbophil]

Originally Posted by MaineLotus

Hi Phil,

Thanks! The Dash and DL1 wiring is almost done. I'd like to tap into the existing oil pressure sensor located on the sandwich plate. Do you see any problems with that? I did buy the DL-1, my goal is to log everything possible - boost, temps, speed, RPM, fuel pressure, boost temps (pre/post chargecooler), H20 temps, AFR, etc. It's a bit of work setting all this up, but hopefully will be worthwhile.

I did see the RaceTech sensors, they are pricey. Is the OEM oil sensor not the correct type? Not familiar with the sensor types out there.

How did you pick up RPM? I have a MSD 8918, which I think will work.

Regard,

John

Hey John,

THe 8918 will work just fine... I used to use it myself. You can keep it even simpler with a wire tap on the green wire (common among all coil packs) while using the stock ECU or the blk/red (If I recall correctly) on cylinder 4 with the EFI. That is how I have it wired now... If I were to do it over again, I'd grab the wire near the ECU to keep the install cleaner. Mine is tapped at the valve cover...For whatever reason, the tach signal pics up differently between the two ECUs. In either case, there will be some noise in the signal so you'll want to limit your tach gain in the dash2 configuration to avoid the occasional RPM spike. I can't recall what I set mine to but can look it up on the software when I get home...

RE: the oil pressure switch, I haven't tested it, but my understanding (As Rob said) is that it's an oil pressure switch rather than a sensor. So to use it, you would simply tell the dash that when X volts is obtained, the readout is 1 and below X, the read out is 0 for an example. Then on the D2 software, set an alarm to show on the display if the value ever drops below 1. The Dash would say "Oil Low" provided that you named the channel Oil. Similar to the stock idiot light. Hope that makes sense. Always happy to visit over the phone to clarify...

Best,

Phil

[MaineLotus]

Thanks for the info, appreciate it. I think I may add a better sensor, so I can fine tune warnings based on exact oil pressures. Seems that would be better than an on/off signal.

[MaineLotus]

Originally Posted by robains

Suggest you look into running an EGT also -- I put one on what I believe is going to be the hot cylinder (#4).

How are you using your EGT?

Thanks,

John