Possible Fried Starter? - LotusTalk

08Blue240S · 09-29-2009, 06:16 AM

I was going for a short drive on Sunday but when I went to start the car, all I got was a loud click - click - click, slower than I would expect for a dead battery. Everything on the car dimmed or went black almost like a dead short. The needles on the gages both went to ~40% and back and the idiot lights flashed. I put on the battery tender and it immediately flashed green meaning better than 80% battery. About two weeks ago I noticed on one start a noise sounding like the starter did not immediatly disengage after starting (one second maybe). Just checking the board to see if anyone might have any ideas before I call FVMC to pick it up. The car is a 2008 Exige S240 with ~2,100 miles (no track time).

ZTEC · 09-29-2009, 06:25 AM

Double check your battery connections first and if you feel so inclined if that doesn't solve anything check the connection on the starter itself - Batteries and connections can do some weird stuff! eliminate the obvious first! good luck.

TheViper · 09-29-2009, 06:36 AM

As ZTEC said, check the battery connections first, especially the adapter at the terminals. If they are OK, then I would certainly expect it to be the battery. Refer to Battery Choices & Information and check the battery as described.
Michael

tesprit · 09-29-2009, 04:22 PM

As the others have said, it is either the battery or the cable connections at the battery, starter or the ground strap. Fried starters do nothing when you press the start button, they draw very little or no electricity at all, their solenoids don't start clicking (maybe one click when the button is pushed) and they don't effect the function of other electrical items on the car.

apxfndr · 10-03-2009, 06:49 AM

I am having the same problem now. What was the issue? Thanks. I pulled my battery out and my volt meter says 13.15 volts. The indicator on top of the Exide battery from my 06 Elise is green if that helps. I have yet to find the starter and tap on it with a hammer to rule out it's at a "dead spot." I may just reattach the battery and see if that does it.

TheViper · 10-03-2009, 07:13 AM

Probably a bad connection but be aware that a battery can indicate normal voltage but the available amperage output is too low. 13.15V is a voltage seen shortly after you shut off the engine (surface charge) and is not a true "at rest" indication, see Battery Choices & Information Could be a good idea to go to your local auto parts store and get them to "load test" the battery.
Michael

Quote:

Originally Posted by apxfndr

I am having the same problem now. What was the issue? Thanks. I pulled my battery out and my volt meter says 13.15 volts. The indicator on top of the Exide battery from my 06 Elise is green if that helps. I have yet to find the starter and tap on it with a hammer to rule out it's at a "dead spot." I may just reattach the battery and see if that does it.

apxfndr · 10-03-2009, 08:56 AM

Battery tested. 28 "cold cranking amps." As the woman at the auto parts store said-"It's TOAST." Time for a lightweight battery.

TheViper · 10-03-2009, 10:03 AM

This is an interesting lesson, battery showed sufficient volts but the cranking amps were way down. Taking a voltage reading is not indicative of a healthy battery.
Michael

Quote:

Originally Posted by apxfndr

Battery tested. 28 "cold cranking amps." As the woman at the auto parts store said-"It's TOAST." Time for a lightweight battery.

08Blue240S · 10-06-2009, 06:01 AM

I left my battery tender on long enough to get the battery to full charge. It started with no problem. I let it run long enough to get heat in the engine. On Sunday I wanted to take a short drive and nothing. Same problem. Built up charge with battery tender and started. Went out for ~40 minute drive and parked. Yesterday, nothing. Put the tender on again and not even at 80% after two hours. I've never seen a battery die like this in 18 months. The lack of vehicle charging now has me thinking alternator.

TheViper · 10-06-2009, 06:11 AM

Check the battery and charging system voltage voltage as per Battery Choices & Information
Michael

Quote:

Originally Posted by 08Blue240S

I left my battery tender on long enough to get the battery to full charge. It started with no problem. I let it run long enough to get heat in the engine. On Sunday I wanted to take a short drive and nothing. Same problem. Built up charge with battery tender and started. Went out for ~40 minute drive and parked. Yesterday, nothing. Put the tender on again and not even at 80% after two hours. I've never seen a battery die like this in 18 months. The lack of vehicle charging now has me thinking alternator.

tesprit · 10-06-2009, 08:25 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TheViper

Check the battery and charging system voltage voltage as per Battery Choices & Information
Michael

In addition to checking the voltages of the charging system, I strongly recommend having the battery load tested. Just take it out of the car and over to your local auto parts store. They will place a high load electrical drain on it to see if it still has sufficient CCA to consistently run the starter. Even though the battery is not that old, it is not uncommon for them to fail in the manner you are describing. The OEM batteries in these cars are not of the best quality and they have spent a lot of time sitting around when the cars were shipped to the US and again to the dealer and batteries don't do well when just sitting and slowly discharging.

Valenz · 10-06-2009, 10:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 08Blue240S

... Fried Starter ? ...

Before we can diagnose further we need to know: extra crispy or original ?

08Blue240S · 10-10-2009, 09:59 AM

Left car on battery tender all week. Tender indicated fully charged. Took battery out and had load tested. Showed 12.8V 370 CCA. Replaced battery in car and started. Tried three times and always started. Removed ground from battery and car continued to run. 370 CCA after a long charge seems low. I'm concerned that there might be another drain on the battery. Any thoughts?

TheViper · 10-10-2009, 10:17 AM

Electronic components, especially the alternator can be damaged by disconnecting the battery while the engine is running. The battery acts as stabilization for the alternator. The correct CCA is dependent on the model of battery you have, 370CCA may or may not be OK.
Michael

Quote:

Originally Posted by 08Blue240S

Left car on battery tender all week. Tender indicated fully charged. Took battery out and had load tested. Showed 12.8V 370 CCA. Replaced battery in car and started. Tried three times and always started. Removed ground from battery and car continued to run. 370 CCA after a long charge seems low. I'm concerned that there might be another drain on the battery. Any thoughts?

apxfndr · 10-10-2009, 02:40 PM

The print-out slip from the autoparts store (if they gave you one) should have what the battery should have for CCA on it. I think you can also look it up. Mine was at 28CCA when I had it tested. When they hooked it up they told me it was rated for 450CCA. I also found that on the battery info sheet on the link in tesprit's post above.

Battery Choices & Information

tomrev · 10-11-2009, 07:17 AM

Battery may have a bad cell inside; it will take a charge from charger/alternator, and show a fully charged state, but once unhooked, will not crank car. I'v had a few over the years, both new replacements that did this, as well as the battery that was in my Elise when purchased, with only one year on it. The fix is a new, undefective battery.

09-29-2009, 06:16 AM	#1 (permalink)
08Blue240S Gone Fission Join Date: May 2008 Location: Chicagoland Posts: 23	Possible Fried Starter? I was going for a short drive on Sunday but when I went to start the car, all I got was a loud click - click - click, slower than I would expect for a dead battery. Everything on the car dimmed or went black almost like a dead short. The needles on the gages both went to ~40% and back and the idiot lights flashed. I put on the battery tender and it immediately flashed green meaning better than 80% battery. About two weeks ago I noticed on one start a noise sounding like the starter did not immediatly disengage after starting (one second maybe). Just checking the board to see if anyone might have any ideas before I call FVMC to pick it up. The car is a 2008 Exige S240 with ~2,100 miles (no track time). __________________ 2008 Exige S 240, Persian Blue, Touring Pak, Track Pak, LSD, Starshield. "Everybody has to believe in something.....I believe I'll have another drink." -W.C. Fields Last edited by 08Blue240S : 09-29-2009 at 06:29 AM.

09-29-2009, 06:25 AM	#2 (permalink)
ZTEC Third Eye Open Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Florida Posts: 1,737 Images: 3	Double check your battery connections first and if you feel so inclined if that doesn't solve anything check the connection on the starter itself - Batteries and connections can do some weird stuff! eliminate the obvious first! good luck. __________________ GO: Vision Function Stage II Intercooled Bliss with Charlie's ECU magic and Ronin's Tenacity! STOP: DBA 4000's, Porterfield R4! TURN: Nitron S/A's Toyo RA1's 225/245 on Rota's!

09-29-2009, 06:36 AM	#3 (permalink)
TheViper Alarmed & Dangerous Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: Boca Raton FL Posts: 3,201	As ZTEC said, check the battery connections first, especially the adapter at the terminals. If they are OK, then I would certainly expect it to be the battery. Refer to Battery Choices & Information and check the battery as described. Michael __________________ Cobra OEM - Alarm, Immobilizer, CDL Emergency Override with warranty Additional Emergency Touch Keys - see link above Brand New Cobra Alarm Remote with warranty Cobra Remote Key Fob Strap Cobra Window Closing Module - Add to your existing Cobra alarm 3 Piece Front Clam Protection Kit with Center Bumper Undertray Removal Tool INFORMATION Improved AC & Heating System Battery Choices & Information Remote Key Fob, Alarm & Immobilizer Programming Light Bulb Conversions 2005

10-06-2009, 06:01 AM	#9 (permalink)
08Blue240S Gone Fission Join Date: May 2008 Location: Chicagoland Posts: 23	I left my battery tender on long enough to get the battery to full charge. It started with no problem. I let it run long enough to get heat in the engine. On Sunday I wanted to take a short drive and nothing. Same problem. Built up charge with battery tender and started. Went out for ~40 minute drive and parked. Yesterday, nothing. Put the tender on again and not even at 80% after two hours. I've never seen a battery die like this in 18 months. The lack of vehicle charging now has me thinking alternator. __________________ 2008 Exige S 240, Persian Blue, Touring Pak, Track Pak, LSD, Starshield. "Everybody has to believe in something.....I believe I'll have another drink." -W.C. Fields

10-10-2009, 09:59 AM	#13 (permalink)
08Blue240S Gone Fission Join Date: May 2008 Location: Chicagoland Posts: 23	Left car on battery tender all week. Tender indicated fully charged. Took battery out and had load tested. Showed 12.8V 370 CCA. Replaced battery in car and started. Tried three times and always started. Removed ground from battery and car continued to run. 370 CCA after a long charge seems low. I'm concerned that there might be another drain on the battery. Any thoughts? __________________ 2008 Exige S 240, Persian Blue, Touring Pak, Track Pak, LSD, Starshield. "Everybody has to believe in something.....I believe I'll have another drink." -W.C. Fields

09-29-2009, 04:22 PM	#4 (permalink)
tesprit Registered User Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Racine, WI Posts: 1,925	As the others have said, it is either the battery or the cable connections at the battery, starter or the ground strap. Fried starters do nothing when you press the start button, they draw very little or no electricity at all, their solenoids don't start clicking (maybe one click when the button is pushed) and they don't effect the function of other electrical items on the car.

10-03-2009, 06:49 AM	#5 (permalink)
apxfndr Registered User Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: La Crosse, WI Posts: 26	I am having the same problem now. What was the issue? Thanks. I pulled my battery out and my volt meter says 13.15 volts. The indicator on top of the Exide battery from my 06 Elise is green if that helps. I have yet to find the starter and tap on it with a hammer to rule out it's at a "dead spot." I may just reattach the battery and see if that does it.

10-03-2009, 08:56 AM	#7 (permalink)
apxfndr Registered User Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: La Crosse, WI Posts: 26	Battery tested. 28 "cold cranking amps." As the woman at the auto parts store said-"It's TOAST." Time for a lightweight battery.

10-10-2009, 02:40 PM	#15 (permalink)
apxfndr Registered User Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: La Crosse, WI Posts: 26	The print-out slip from the autoparts store (if they gave you one) should have what the battery should have for CCA on it. I think you can also look it up. Mine was at 28CCA when I had it tested. When they hooked it up they told me it was rated for 450CCA. I also found that on the battery info sheet on the link in tesprit's post above. Battery Choices & Information

10-11-2009, 07:17 AM	#16 (permalink)
tomrev Registered User Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Traverse City, Mi. Posts: 87 Images: 10	Battery may have a bad cell inside; it will take a charge from charger/alternator, and show a fully charged state, but once unhooked, will not crank car. I'v had a few over the years, both new replacements that did this, as well as the battery that was in my Elise when purchased, with only one year on it. The fix is a new, undefective battery.

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