Really Light Stuff - Odyssey PC680 Bracket by NCI

[Thomasio]

Batteries + brackets out this morning. Sorry for the delay. Watch for UPS.

[Stale_Hotdog]

Why the switch in part numbers for the battery cable? Is it ok if I ordered the 112705 - 12" Lead Battery Cable, 6 Ga, Top Post?

Originally Posted by Thomasio

Great idea!

Note: just to install the BATTERY without the cutoff switch, you probably need only remove the post-adapters from your positive and negative battery cables. Lotus has configured the Elise / Exige different ways, to check to see if your post adapters are bolted to your positive and negative cables. If so, it's easy. You may need to drill the lug holes a tad larger, or they may fit as-is depending on what Lotus used that day.

Here is the parts list for adding the cutoff switch:

DelCity
5413 Cutoff Switch ($21.90)
412605 12" Lead Battery Cable ($2.27)
917655 Copper Compression Lug ($1.38)
900905 Battery Terminal Solder Slug, 4 Ga ($0.XX)

**EDIT** You may not need all of those part #'s, look at your OEM setup. I updated the 12" lead part number. **EDIT**

Watch the soldering video on the DelCity website to see how the solder slug works. It's pretty cool.

With shipping and everything I can add this kit for $33.00 or save a few bucks and source the stuff yourself. They give me no price break on quantity orders

[Thomasio]

Originally Posted by Stale_Hotdog

Why the switch in part numbers for the battery cable? Is it ok if I ordered the 112705 - 12" Lead Battery Cable, 6 Ga, Top Post?

Somehow they had the wrong # on my invoice (which is what I used to generate the post). When I re-ordered per my previous invoice, I discovered the error.

The battery cable that you ordered is made for a top post battery, so if you intend to use it with the Odyssey battery you will need to clip off the top post connector from the battery cable that you ordered, and you will replace it with a lug to fit the Odyssey. Just a little extra work.

The battery cable that is listed now is ready to go: it already has the proper lug on each end.

[Demonized]

Just got it in, looks good, just have to work on cleaning the way I connected it up.

[kmt63]

yea looks good.i think i need to buy one back from thomas.i like the red anodizing.i still have the prototype in my car.did you try mounting the battery lugs to the battery with some 6mil screws?thats what i did on mine.i found a smaller positive boot for it too.there is a pic of it on the other thread i started.i didnt have the pc680 post adapters.

[Demonized]

Originally Posted by kmt63

yea looks good.i think i need to buy one back from thomas.i like the red anodizing.i still have the prototype in my car.did you try mounting the battery lugs to the battery with some 6mil screws?thats what i did on mine.i found a smaller positive boot for it too.there is a pic of it on the other thread i started.i didnt have the pc680 post adapters.

No, I have some around so that's what I'll give a try.

I swapped over what I had on my giant thing of a battery, used posts from a post kit, and screwed some bolts tight.

[kmt63]

the pic doesnt have the positive boot installed.just so we are on the same page here.i just used some small button head 6 mil screws to hold the battery lugs to the postsAttachment 122647

[Thomasio]

Yep, that's how my battery cables are too.

[ACE51]

thats a beautiful setup, when my braille goes dead I'll get this and batt from you. They want $146 + tax just for the battery locally! good deal you got

[Stale_Hotdog]

Any pics of the cutoff switch installed?

[Thomasio]

I'll post some. New batch will be back from anodizer Monday / Tuesday, ready to ship. Batteries are in stock too.

[Stale_Hotdog]

What's everyone using for screws to hold the switch to it's face plate? It didn't come with any and the techies at delcity are gone for the weekend. :/ There also weren't any instructions or any markings on the switch so I'm not sure which terminal is for the battery and which is for the negative terminal on the car.

[Thomasio]

You can use double sided tape. With the cutoff switch, you can remove and replace the plastic gates at the four sides to suit the positioning of your cables.

[Stale_Hotdog]

So either terminal is fine?

Originally Posted by Thomasio

You can use double sided tape. With the cutoff switch, you can remove and replace the plastic gates at the four sides to suit the positioning of your cables.

[DWebb]

just a small point of interest on the solder slugs. Make sure you take penty of time to push the cable in.

If you go in too fast the solder will splash out.
wear gloves as the cable heats up real nice.
You'll want to hold the cable in as the solder sets up.

They make alot better connections than the crimp type.
If you wanna use the solder slugs with the copper eyelet types, I've had success using two slugs.

[Thomasio]

Battery brackets, batteries, and cutoff switches are all boxed and ready to ship. PM to order.

[JungleJim]

PM sent to order battery package.
Before pic:

[Thomasio]

Switches back in stock Thursday.

[christsay]

Haven't seen any posts comparing this to Sector's Xtender.

Looks like they both fit the PC680 and are price competitive if you add in the cost of the switch.

Xtender: 79.99
RLS: 54.00 + 33.00 = 87.00

The RLS comes in red. Am I missing anything?

-chris

[kmt63]

the big difference for me is that the nci bracket holds the battery on all for sides.uses both stock mounting points.the sector one wedges the battery in the corner.i didnt like that too much so i built this one.i read the story about the guy that totaled his rear clam when his battery came loose.so i wanted my battery very secure.