Remote Key Fob & Immobilizer Programming

[zygotesoup]

Finally got around to programming my other key fob last night... even though it took me about 5 times to get it right This thread definitely helped.

[TheViper]

The key to this programming is to become VERY familiar with the procedure BEFORE starting. I can not emphasize this enough.
Cheers,
Michael

[Vampyre]

I printed this and left a copy in the car, great info.. thanks!

[prowlerman99]

Is there some way to program a new fob without the pin #? I just bought this car a month ago and it only had one fob and no pin #. I recently bought another fob but it looks like you need the pin to program.
Would it work if I used the method of unhooking the battery?

Thanks,
Brian

[TheViper]

No, you need the PIN. A dealer will get it from Lotus when you provide ownership proof. Having the PIN is a "must", for situations where the remote will not work or lost or a need to program.
Cheers,
Michael

Originally Posted by prowlerman99

Is there some way to program a new fob without the pin #? I just bought this car a month ago and it only had one fob and no pin #. I recently bought another fob but it looks like you need the pin to program.
Would it work if I used the method of unhooking the battery?

Thanks,
Brian

[prowlerman99]

Thanks, I'll contact the dealer tomorrow.

Brian

[zygotesoup]

Originally Posted by prowlerman99

Thanks, I'll contact the dealer tomorrow.

Brian

I called Sports and Specialists dealership in NJ and they were able to get me my code in about 2 minutes. 609.466.5305

[zygotesoup]

Originally Posted by TheViper

The key to this programming is to become VERY familiar with the procedure BEFORE starting. I can not emphasize this enough.
Cheers,
Michael

im very meticulous/anal about doing work on my cars so I read and reread the directions in this thread, 2 others and the owners manual before I started but it still took me about 4-5 tries before it worked for some reason.

The directions are really quite simple compared to a lot of other manufacturers fob/key programming procedures. For my bmw I have to hop on 1 foot while turning the lock on the passenger door 19.5 times with the trunk open and a raw chicken in the back seat while sacrificing a virgin goat to satan with my eyes tied behind my back.

[TheViper]

I think in may cases it's sequence timing.

Originally Posted by zygotesoup

im very meticulous/anal about doing work on my cars so I read and reread the directions in this thread, 2 others and the owners manual before I started but it still took me about 4-5 tries before it worked for some reason..

[cherylclark01]

hi, i know this as already been asked but a still canny get it. ma original fob stopped working so am snookered for using that. at the moment if i want to use ma car i have to put code in and it will start, but its a hassle i rather do without and go back to just using ma fob. my problem as previously stated is it don't matter how many times i go through the process the light on tach never comes on to complete it. please help as am nearly bauld pulling out ma hair trying to get this lol.

[zygotesoup]

Originally Posted by cherylclark01

hi, i know this as already been asked but a still canny get it. ma original fob stopped working so am snookered for using that. at the moment if i want to use ma car i have to put code in and it will start, but its a hassle i rather do without and go back to just using ma fob. my problem as previously stated is it don't matter how many times i go through the process the light on tach never comes on to complete it. please help as am nearly bauld pulling out ma hair trying to get this lol.

can I assume that english is not your native language?

i couldn't really understand what you were trying to say so I'm not sure I can help. It sounds like you can't complete the programming process, specifically the part at the end after you enter the 4-digit code then the immobilizer light is supposed to stay illuminated so you can program each of the fobs you prepared. I ran into this problem the first 4 times I tried to do it, but it eventually just worked and it did not seem as though I did anything different.

I would say #1. make sure you have the correct PIN and #2. just keep trying using the instructions in this thread.

[Aedo]

Originally Posted by cherylclark01

hi, i know this as already been asked but a still canny get it. ma original fob stopped working so am snookered for using that. at the moment if i want to use ma car i have to put code in and it will start, but its a hassle i rather do without and go back to just using ma fob. my problem as previously stated is it don't matter how many times i go through the process the light on tach never comes on to complete it. please help as am nearly bauld pulling out ma hair trying to get this lol.

Since you can use the pin to get the car started that eliminates that as an issue. When you first start is the immobiliser on (tach light blinking) or off? You need to have it off first before going through the whole reprogramming feature. If all else fails give Hethel a call directly - they have a technical support line and are very helpful

Originally Posted by zygotesoup

can I assume that english is not your native language?

Don't you understand Scottish

[TheViper]

+1 In post #12 you will see someone else tried to program with the immobilizer left on. Turn immobilizer off, then start the whole programming procedure from the beginning.
Cheers,
Michael

Originally Posted by Aedo

When you first start is the immobiliser on (tach light blinking) or off? You need to have it off first before going through the whole reprogramming feature.

[Solo2Elise]

Got it to work just now. Really appreciated. Btw a Very dumb question here why N = 12 blinks? isn't it 14? Anyways I set it to 12 blinks and it works.

[petroboy]

I tried the immobilizer deactivation yesterday and Viper's instructions worked beautifully. Thanks for the help.

[TheViper]

They missed "J" & "K" so that it becomes the 12th option.
Michael

Originally Posted by Solo2Elise

Got it to work just now. Really appreciated. Btw a Very dumb question here why N = 12 blinks? isn't it 14? Anyways I set it to 12 blinks and it works.

[got_s54?]

PROGRAM FOR IMMOBILIZER "ACTIVE" ARMING
USE WHEN YOU DON'T WANT THE IMMOBILIZER TO ARM AUTOMATICALLY
STEP 1 – ENTER PIN NUMBER
1) Turn ignition ON and OFF 3 times within 5 seconds.
2) Tachometer security LED will blink once indicating that the security code can now be entered.
3) Enter security code as follows:
....a) Turn ignition ON & count number of blinks representing 1st digit of code then turn ignition OFF.
....b) Repeat for 2nd digit.
....c) Repeat for 3rd digit.
....d) Repeat for 4th digit.
4) Turn ignition ON and security LED will come on permanently if correct code has been entered

my dad's been trying to do this but can't get step 4 to work. after putting in the code for the 4th digit, a green light flashes on the tach, then he turns the ignition ON and instead of the security LED coming on permanently, it blinks once and then is gone.

any ideas why it won't stay on?

[TheViper]

Wrong PIN entered
Michael

Originally Posted by got_s54?

PROGRAM FOR IMMOBILIZER "ACTIVE" ARMING
USE WHEN YOU DON'T WANT THE IMMOBILIZER TO ARM AUTOMATICALLY
STEP 1 – ENTER PIN NUMBER
1) Turn ignition ON and OFF 3 times within 5 seconds.
2) Tachometer security LED will blink once indicating that the security code can now be entered.
3) Enter security code as follows:
....a) Turn ignition ON & count number of blinks representing 1st digit of code then turn ignition OFF.
....b) Repeat for 2nd digit.
....c) Repeat for 3rd digit.
....d) Repeat for 4th digit.
4) Turn ignition ON and security LED will come on permanently if correct code has been entered

my dad's been trying to do this but can't get step 4 to work. after putting in the code for the 4th digit, a green light flashes on the tach, then he turns the ignition ON and instead of the security LED coming on permanently, it blinks once and then is gone.

any ideas why it won't stay on?

[got_s54?]

we're wondering if it could be because of the wrong pin entered like you said, but after the light turns off (which by the way always isn't the case), he is able to start the car.

if the wrong pin had been entered, would the immobilizer still get disabled anyway allowing him to start the car?

the bottom line is that fob's somehow lost sync with the alarm system. so he's trying to re-sync them and also disable passive arming of the immobilizer so that if this happens again, he won't be left stranded.

but the alarm simply won't get into the state where the light stays on to allow him to sync the fobs and get into the mode to disable the passive arming of the immobilizer.

the PIN he's using is for sure the correct pin because he's used it in the past to sync the fobs. this time around though, the alarm just isn't doing what it's supposed to be doing after entering the PIN.

he hasn't been able to drive the car for over 2 weeks now because of this I'm already planning on helping him bypass the immobilizer by tapping the wires on the immobilizer harness for the fuelpump and starter like you showed, but it'd be great if he could be able to re-sync the fobs so he can use them again to lock/unlock the doors and arm/disarm the alarm. Any ideas?

[TheViper]

After entering the last digit of the PIN by turning the key off, are you then turning the key ON again?????
You also need to check the battery in the remote and resync it if needed.
After all is working you may want to consider Alarm/Immobilizer/CDL Emergency Overide
Michael

Originally Posted by got_s54?

we're wondering if it could be because of the wrong pin entered like you said, but after the light turns off (which by the way always isn't the case), he is able to start the car.
if the wrong pin had been entered, would the immobilizer still get disabled anyway allowing him to start the car?
the bottom line is that fob's somehow lost sync with the alarm system. so he's trying to re-sync them and also disable passive arming of the immobilizer so that if this happens again, he won't be left stranded.
but the alarm simply won't get into the state where the light stays on to allow him to sync the fobs and get into the mode to disable the passive arming of the immobilizer.
the PIN he's using is for sure the correct pin because he's used it in the past to sync the fobs. this time around though, the alarm just isn't doing what it's supposed to be doing after entering the PIN.
he hasn't been able to drive the car for over 2 weeks now because of this I'm already planning on helping him bypass the immobilizer by tapping the wires on the immobilizer harness for the fuelpump and starter like you showed, but it'd be great if he could be able to re-sync the fobs so he can use them again to lock/unlock the doors and arm/disarm the alarm. Any ideas?