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Old 09-09-2008, 02:08 PM   #21 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheViper View Post
I am betting you have a high resistance connection somewhere. Check all connections at the battery.
I'm assuming you mean the pos/neg cable connections?

Thanks again everyone for helping out the village electrical idiot.
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Old 09-09-2008, 02:15 PM   #22 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by knucklehead View Post
OK...

Signals - nothing
Hazard - one blink when I press the button then nothing
Locks - work, both from the fob and the button on center console.
Inside cabin light - working

Checked the battery cable and it seems tight. Could it be the cable themselves? I have had the battery die for no reason twice. And there is a current draw that I've never figured out, but as I said before I don't know why the alternator doesn't seem to recharge the battery well.
Quote:
Originally Posted by TheViper View Post
I am betting you have a high resistance connection somewhere. Check all connections at the battery.
Good chance of that...

Quote:
Originally Posted by knucklehead View Post
I'm assuming you mean the pos/neg cable connections?

Thanks again everyone for helping out the village electrical idiot.
Yes, check to make sure all the battery connections are clean and tight...

If that doesn't help the next step is to check voltages at the battery, the alternator, and inside the car (i.e. cigarette lighter socket).

EDIT: What makes you think you have an unexplained current draw? The battery dying twice?
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Old 09-09-2008, 02:30 PM   #23 (permalink)
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Put a friends voltage meter to the batter cables and it read that I have a draw. I just didn't make the time to check every fuse to see where it was coming from.
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Old 09-09-2008, 02:50 PM   #24 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by knucklehead View Post
Put a friends voltage meter to the batter cables and it read that I have a draw. I just didn't make the time to check every fuse to see where it was coming from.
Hmm.... I assume you were measuring voltage across the battery cables, not current through them. Measuring voltage alone doesn't prove that you have a current draw... but if the voltage is low it would indicate some kind of problem.
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Old 09-09-2008, 03:08 PM   #25 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by apk919 View Post
Hmm.... I assume you were measuring voltage across the battery cables, not current through them. Measuring voltage alone doesn't prove that you have a current draw... but if the voltage is low it would indicate some kind of problem.
Did I mention the part about the village electrical idiot?
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Old 09-09-2008, 03:24 PM   #26 (permalink)
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Maybe because the high resistance battery connection that could be causing components not to operate, is also stopping the current from the alternator reaching the battery.
Quote:
Originally Posted by knucklehead View Post
I don't know why the alternator doesn't seem to recharge the battery well.
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Old 09-09-2008, 03:38 PM   #27 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by knucklehead View Post
Did I mention the part about the village electrical idiot?
Yeah, sorry if I rubbed it in

Quote:
Originally Posted by TheViper View Post
Maybe because the high resistance battery connection that could be causing components not to operate, is also stopping the current from the alternator reaching the battery.
+1

In the schematic below, the red wires are the connections between the battery, the alternator, and the positive voltage splices. They will be large red cables in the engine compartment. The blue wires in the schematic are the ground connections for the battery and the alternator. They will be large black or bare wires connected to the chassis or engine block. If you can, check their connection points to see if they're clean and tight.
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Last edited by apk919 : 09-09-2008 at 03:44 PM.
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Old 09-09-2008, 03:53 PM   #28 (permalink)
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Especially, check the additional connection in the positive lead a few inches from the battery terminal.
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1) Insulate the cockpit from Solar (3M Crystalline Tint) & Convected (insulate sills) heat.
2) Replace evaporator thermostat with an upgraded electronic version to prevent freeze up.
3) Increase airflow into cockpit by removing both driver & passenger side footwell intake panels & blocking 2 outside air intakes in nose.
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Old 09-09-2008, 04:03 PM   #29 (permalink)
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And of course, it's still possible that your alternator is not providing enough voltage/current to charge the battery...

Oh, and be careful if you put a wrench or socket to any of the positive (red) connectors... if you find one that's loose, the safest thing to do is to disconnect the battery ground (black wire) before trying to tighten them... just sayin'
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Old 09-09-2008, 04:05 PM   #30 (permalink)
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thanks again everybody.
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Old 09-09-2008, 08:12 PM   #31 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by knucklehead View Post
OK...

Signals - nothing
Hazard - one blink when I press the button then nothing
Locks - work, both from the fob and the button on center console.
Inside cabin light - working

Checked the battery cable and it seems tight. Could it be the cable themselves? I have had the battery die for no reason twice. And there is a current draw that I've never figured out, but as I said before I don't know why the alternator doesn't seem to recharge the battery well.
Try checking all the grounds too. Get a decent multimeter if you do not already have one as it will be a handy tool to have overall.
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Old 09-09-2008, 11:13 PM   #32 (permalink)
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jacob, i put some videos up that help show you how to check stuff like this.
on this thread.
Help! Crazy Flashing Battery Light on crack.
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Old 09-09-2008, 11:26 PM   #33 (permalink)
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thanks
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Old 09-14-2008, 11:54 PM   #34 (permalink)
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You guys were totally spot on. I looked at your diagram and went to the car. all the connections that I could find had locking connectors. They were all attached but I used my wealth of electrical experience and jiggled them all. Tah dah blinkers, hazards and radio all working. An hour later CEL goes off.

YOU GUYS ROCK!
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Old 09-14-2008, 11:57 PM   #35 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by knucklehead View Post
You guys were totally spot on. I looked at your diagram and went to the car. all the connections that I could find had locking connectors. They were all attached but I used my wealth of electrical experience and jiggled them all. Tah dah blinkers, hazards and radio all working. An hour later CEL goes off.

YOU GUYS ROCK!
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Mods: Multivex mirrors, JLAudio 525/Stealthbox/Focal 130 spkrs, Alpine PDX-5 Amp, Sector111 F&R Tow Hook, Fire Ext, HID Kit, Bootie and Bling, Lotus leather/alcantara interior, Braille Battery, LED Parking/Dome/License Lights, Bane's stealth bulbs, alex's 1/4 turn kit, Stan's shifter mod, jim-c's spkr rings, codymac's 1/4 turn kit, Lotus Cup roof w/fettled clam, Schroth 6pt harness, RAC's & R888's, ChaseCam
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Old 09-20-2008, 03:21 PM   #36 (permalink)
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ok, though my thread hijacker's issue is all fixed, mine isn't

I replaced the top left 20A fuse (accessories - 21) and there was no change. The car:

Runs great
Headlights work (low/hi)
all signals work
brake lights work
radio, fans, etc. work

what doesn't work:
dash illumination
dimmer to change dash illumination
top "parking" light switch

I swapped the headlight switch with the park light switch and the park switch operated the Headlights properly. I also got no voltage on my meter at that 20A fuse, odd.

So, a few questions:

Do your headlights stay light with the key out? Mine do, I don't remember that.
Anyone have any ideas? I'm wondering if there is a relay somewhere that's out. Thanks
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Old 09-20-2008, 04:56 PM   #37 (permalink)
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Uh... try jiggling wires? It worked for me.

the Highjacker
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Old 09-20-2008, 04:58 PM   #38 (permalink)
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In all seriousness I thought your issue was fixed. Sorry.
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Old 09-20-2008, 05:26 PM   #39 (permalink)
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Lol just kidding Knucklehead

I spent a lot of time a jigglin' No dice. I guess my elise is now not only a fair weather car but a daylight car too lol.
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Old 09-21-2008, 07:47 AM   #40 (permalink)
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What was the one you jiggled Knucklehead that brought you back to life?
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