DIY Hardwire: Radar Detector, etc.

[txdude]

There's a couple threads in here using fuse-taps, but I decided to tap into the AC 12V line in the steering column. Benefits: you're getting your power from the "source" & not steeling it from other areas (such as using a fuse tap to piggy-back on the stereo fuse).

What you need: Phillips head screw driver, quick-splice connectors, electrical tape, volt-meter, radar detector hardwire kit (should come with a (+) & (-) & built in fuse--bought mine online for under $10)


Step 1Start by removing 6 screws from steering column & removing the lower section, take care not too rip the wire connected to trip-reset button (it's just long enough that the plastic piece can rest on the ground). The top piece will likely fall down now, but it's not necessary to remove.

Now you can see the ignition wires from the left side, the area highlighted in red.


Step 2 Remove rubber wire protector & electrical tape (very sticky stuff). I used a razor to slice the rubber section neatly so that I was able to reuse it.


Step 3 Once rubber thing & tape is removed, identify the Alt Current 12v wire. It's Yellow with a green line. I used a volt-meter & through trial & error figured it out. This wire is only "hot" when the key is turned to the ACC position (or when the car is running). If you want the "always-on" connection where your devices stay running even with the car off, then you want the purple wire (constant 12v). I chose the alt current wire because I want my radar detector to automatically turn off.


Step 4 Quick-splice about 8" (or however much you need depending on where you're running the wire) of new wire to the ignition wire & then put everything back together.

Note: I used an 18 gauge red wire from radio shack, about 8" in length to quick-splice into the ignition wire. I then put everything back together & ran my extended hot wire to that little cubby left of the steering wheel. 8" is much longer than needed, but it gives me the ability to easily add on other devices later on without actually getting into the steering column again. The pic below was taken after I wrapped all the wires back up with electrical tape & that rubber protective thing. You can see my new hot/red wire running down the side.


Step 5 Whatever device you're installing, make sure you ground it now. I chose one of the screws that holds the OBDII connector.


Step 6 Take the positive line of your radar hardwire kit (or other device) & quick-splice it to the end of the new "hot" wire that is running from the ignition.


Step 7 Lucky for me, I have this nifty filler plate (made by TheViper) that holds my 12v cigarette outlet & hides all my wires. Not sure if he makes them anymore, I actually bought this used one from Tesprit. It's simple, but top-quality & matches our interior.


Step 7 With the start panel area removed, remove the 2 screws securing plastic area where the vent is (Sorry, no picture here, but it's 2 screws that are visible once you've actually removed the start button panel area). You won't be able to completely remove the vented panel on the driver's side, but it will now move just enough that you can push the radar detector wire through & rout it along the windshield to the radar detector unit. Here's a rough finished picture. I plan on making the wire run along that groove right next to the windshield but didn't feel like doing it just yet. Anyways, the wire is just kind of laying there now...


I hope this helps someone. I originally had everything installed using fuse taps, but my boss told me I was crazy for doing so. Apparently he's actually seen someone fry their fuse panel before with the fuse taps (back in the day when he was a car alarm installer). Anyways, I didn't want to take any chances so I changed it to this.

[JWA]

Interesting, and it looks like you did a nice job and great write-up. I'd be afraid to use quick splices on major wires like that though. I've seen a lot more problems from them than from fuse taps. Besides, if you put the fuse tap on the supply side isn't the end effect about the same?

[txdude]

Originally Posted by JWA

Interesting, and it looks like you did a nice job and great write-up. I'd be afraid to use quick splices on major wires like that though. I've seen a lot more problems from them than from fuse taps. Besides, if you put the fuse tap on the supply side isn't the end effect about the same?

I seriously thought so too, I'm still unsure. Basically, my supervisor saw my original installation with the fuse-taps & made a huge deal. He apparently has actually seen a fuse tap fry out an entire panel. At one point in a past career, he was an auto alarm installer so I figure he's educated more so than I. I didn't want to take any chances so I just followed his lead here.

[txdude]

Again though, I'm not knocking the fuse-taps. I followed Viper's fuse-tap instructions on another thread & everything was simple & worked great. This is just one of those situations where I was getting conflicting information so I attempted to take the cautious route. Hopefully, it won't be a mistake. God I hope it's not a mistake, lol. I did use LOTS of electrical tape around all quick-splices.

[JWA]

You'll be fine. Next time you're doing some electrical work check out silicone fusion tape. I like it a lot better than electrical tape.

[Spudboy]

I solder everything on a car, I never trusted those quickie squeeze and go splice things.

[txdude]

Originally Posted by Spudboy

I solder everything on a car, I never trusted those quickie squeeze and go splice things.

Soldering, damn I wish I could do that. I tried once to solder a modchip on my xbox... I ended up buying a new xbox! Wish I had that skill.

[TheViper]

Actually soldered connections are not recommended on anything that is subject to vibration.
Michael