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#1 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 91
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Spent $120 and now I can ROCK!
After reading the forum pages, I bought a set of new Polk DB650's (6.5") on eBay for $57 and a set of MB Quart 113 (5.25") for $59.
I installed them this week and they really make a big difference. I was going to add an amp, but it is fine without it. I just don't like the amp mounting options at this point and the sound I'm getting is very good. And for $120 and a couple of hours, how can you go wrong? The stock head unit works well. I read all the post about buying a new head unit. I don't agree now that I've changes out the speakers. I suggest you do the speakers first, then change out the head unit. As for an amp, that could be added later too. So there is no need to rush into that either. Installation notes Rear speakers: The rear speakers are easy to install. I removed the passenger seat to speed up the process. The hardest part is removing the seat's right-rear bolt. I used a flexable shaft drill to get the bolt out quickly. Spend $9 and save yourself some time. Remove the speaker grill with a small pick. You pick out the mesh part, not the edge of the grill. Remove the speakers 4 screws and throw the POC in the trash. Be sure to crimp the factory speaker plugs onto the new Polk speakers. Polk uses thinner connectors so the wires can fall off if you don't lightly crimp them. Use a drill to enlarge the hole towards the outside. All you need is about 1/8th of an inch. Front speakers: Remove the speaker grill with a small pick. You pick out the mesh part, not the edge of the grill. Remove the old plastic speakers (yes, made of plastic). You will need a screw driver that will fit. Read below to see some options. Connect the new wires. No need to crimp them, they use the same sized connectors. The new speakers will fit, but at first you may think they won't. Just rotate the speakers into the hole and they'll pop right in. Here's the tricky part. The new speaker grills don't want to fit flush because of the windshield. So I cut 1/4" off the enitire edge of the grill using a pair of tin snips. This can be tricky, so take your time if you choose to go this route. I bet you could just force the grills on, but I wanted a nice fit, so I cut mine. Tools to remove the seat: 6mm allen head socket (2) 3/8" flex sockets, using (2) 4" extentions or one flex shaft. This is to make it easy to remove the right-rear bolt. You can use 2 flex sockets and extensions, but this is easier: This is a flex socket and extension: To remove/install the rear speakers, the tools needed are: Phillips head screw driver 1/8" drill bit and power drill (to enlarge the hole by just a little for the new speakers) A small pick to remove the speaker grill. Crimps (to make sure the new wires stay on the speakers) To remove/install the front speakers, the tools needed are: Small, ratching screw driver. This is optional, but will save you time! Instead of buying the $9 ratching screw driver, you could use a small "L-Shaped" screw driver like this (off-set screw driver): Or, another option would be to use a 1/4" socket and put a screw driver bit in the socket. Using a very small ratchet, you can get to most of the screws. Then the one's near the windshield you would have to find another way. Or, if you have a 1/4" racheting wrench, you could put a 1/4" drive screw bit in and go to town. Here's a 1/4" rataching wrench and then you'll need a 1/4" (common size, you already should have) screw bit for an electric scew driver. - A small pick to remove the speaker grill. - Optional tin snips to cut the grill down a little. Bill |
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#3 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 293
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Thanks!!!
This will certainly simplify things and it's more or less the same thing I wanted to do except I will add an amp just to get the additional crispness the cleaner power provides. I'm looking for a nice 4-channel amp that will bolt behind the passenger seat. It needs to be about 9x11x1-3/4. Any recommendations? |
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#5 (permalink) |
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my name is not *cliff* !!
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: santa monica, ca
Posts: 993
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GREAT install instructions Bill! I'm considering the same, as I'm pretty happy with the Los Angeles HU in my rig. What other speaker options did you consider - if any?
I too am considering mouting a small 4x50W amp in the passenger footwell - but probably after I replace the speakers. |
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#6 (permalink) | |
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 91
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Quote:
Also, are the wires that easy to find? I have my doubts about how easy it would be to get to the factory speaker wires. The underside of the dash is pretty sealed. While I was working on the stereo, I went ahead and added an RCA jack for my MP3 player and a remote control for the LA. I had a he** of a time getting the wires from the back of the radio to a hole near the steering wheel (in the storage tray). It is really tight. I would like to hear from some other people about the wires. - Bill |
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#7 (permalink) | |
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 91
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Quote:
- Bill |
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#8 (permalink) | |
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I drank what?!?
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Tampa, FL
Posts: 4,220
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#11 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Southern California
Posts: 184
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Bill:
Great instructions, this will be my next project. Already took the car in once to the dealer to fix the buzzing factory speaker with no success.
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'05 Elise,SY,LSS,Touring,Hardtop,Starshield |
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#13 (permalink) | |
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The Only Sane One Here
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Arlington, VA, USA
Posts: 1,122
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Quote:
Thanks for the instructions! I JUST finished sending a PM to an audio expert on this board, to ask what speakers I should use, and if the mounts are standardized. Your post answered all that! I think I'll do exactly what you did. That's just about all I want to invest in this radio -- the car is so noisy, you can't expect great sound, but I do want something a bit better than what's in there. The Blaupunkt wiring harnasses are readily available. There are a couple of places online that sell them. Here's one (but shipping here is EXPENSIVE): Blaupunkt wiring harnasses Some pop up on ebay, too. One harnass came with the radio (it should have been in the Blaupunkt box in your trunk) -- can't recall which one, but I'm pretty sure it's the one for the amp. As for running the wires behind the dash, I just did the same thing about a week ago, going from the Blaupunkt to the cubby below the Start button, and then up to the top of the dash, where I mounted my XM roady. I had a hard time, too, getting the wires acroos, but not terrible. It's a WHOLE lot easier if you remove the aluminum (steel?) frame that the radio slides into -- the frame snaps out of the dash (after you've removed the radio, of cousre!). It makes for a larger opening you can slide your hand into, and eliminates the jagged edges of that frame. I also just read the directions in another posting for removing the instrument cluster cowl -- I wonder if that would have made it easier.
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My other car is an MR2 Spyder. My other other car is a Segway. |
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#15 (permalink) | |
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 91
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Someone sent me an email about cutting the grills, so I'm going to post my reply to his question here so everyone with the same problem can get the info.
Quote:
You need the right tool. I have a three piece set of Craftsman Snip Set, Sears item #00942720000 Mfr. model #4272. They come in right hand cut, left hand cut and straight cut. I used the red handled snip, which is the left hand cut. The set of three runs $29.99, or you can just buy the one snip for $14.99. With the speaker cover in my left hand and have the speaker grill facing the ceiling, I cut clock wise with my right hand. The snips need to be facing up so they are making a left hand cut. It sounds hard, but once you do it and see it in person, it's simple. You have to make sure you cut even all around. If you don't have any experience with snips, use a piece of masking tape and mark the cut line. Start with a 1/8" cut and see if they will fit, then cut a little more if needed. Always cut as little as possible so you have less chance of messing up the covers. You can get some practice by only cutting a 1/16" first, then go for more once you are comfortable with how to make clean, straight cuts. I have built several Factory Five Cobra's, which use aluminum panels, so I have more experience with snips than most. So I didn't think twice about cutting off 1/8" of the grill. But I did a small cut all around, then had to go a little more. It took me 2 minutes per grill, so this is not rocket science. Just go slow and make sure you cut a straight line all around. The key to making a clean cut is make longer cuts, instead of a bunch of little cuts. As an example, if your snips have 3" cutting blades, you should make one 3" cut. Not six 1/2" cuts. Then when you are done with your cutting, make sure the edges are smooth. Just use your fingers to flatten any high spots. Good luck! - Bill |
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#16 (permalink) | |
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Commence the jigglin'
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: New Orleans
Posts: 172
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Quote:
Smura - If you haven't gone yet, save yourself the time. I saw your post and couldn't wait to find out. I'm now about to return the 2 pairs (5.25 + 6.5) I just bought. I think they could maybe be made to fit with some work, but even then it looks like where the speaker wants the screws would be up in the raised portion of the dash. I was really hoping this would work, because I found this earlier thread where abechen says the db650's fit in the rear w/no problems.. ah well.
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Y HELO THAR! |
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#17 (permalink) | |
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 91
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Quote:
These are from CHRISN's install. Here's how the stock speaker sit in the dash: <div style="padding:6px"> <fieldset class="fieldset"> <legend>Attached Images</legend> <div style="padding:3px"> <img class="attach" src="attachment.php?attachmentid=9395&stc=1" border="0" alt="" /> <img class="attach" src="attachment.php?attachmentid=9396&stc=1" border="0" alt="" /> </div> </fieldset> </div> <!-- / attachments --> Here's how the MB Quart and any other 5.25" speaker would fit. These pictures are from agent orange's install: - Bill Last edited by Bill; 06-11-2005 at 12:22 PM. |
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#18 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 293
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Anyone have any experience with Lanzar?
Check out the Lanzar OPTI4X400D at http://www.lanzar.com/sucategorylist...ies=OPTI+Drive It runs between $200 and $250 from stores online and it's only 1.6" Deep. I think it would fit perfectly behind the passenger seat. |
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#19 (permalink) |
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The Only Sane One Here
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Arlington, VA, USA
Posts: 1,122
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Yep, I had the same problem. I bought the Polks for the dash, but they wouldn't fit. Even if I make new screw holes, it sure looks like the speaker magnet/frame won't fit thru the hole in the dash. What's there now appears to be a 4 inch speaker, so the hole is a lot smaller.
I'd hate to have to start cutting the dash. How would I even go about doing that? Looks like a job.At least the MBs have a nice grille. The grille on the Polks is tacky, and way too open.
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My other car is an MR2 Spyder. My other other car is a Segway. |
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#20 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Glen Carbon, IL
Posts: 95
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I installed the Alpine 9855 headunit and Alpine SPS 100 speakers ( 4" fronts and 5.25" rears) into my car today. Everything was pretty much plug-and-play, only needed the blaupunkt wiring harness. All screw patterns lined up perfecty. I didn't like Alpine's spoke speaker covers so I reused the blaupunkt grills. They fit perfectly. The sound is dramatically better and the headunit is much easier to use that the OEM unit.
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