speaker removal and installation, was Spent $120 and now I can ROCK!

[Bill]

After reading the forum pages, I bought a set of new Polk DB650's (6.5") on eBay for $57 and a set of MB Quart 113 (5.25") for $59.

I installed them this week and they really make a big difference. I was going to add an amp, but it is fine without it. I just don't like the amp mounting options at this point and the sound I'm getting is very good. And for $120 and a couple of hours, how can you go wrong? The stock head unit works well. I read all the post about buying a new head unit. I don't agree now that I've changes out the speakers. I suggest you do the speakers first, then change out the head unit. As for an amp, that could be added later too. So there is no need to rush into that either.

Installation notes

Rear speakers:

The rear speakers are easy to install. I removed the passenger seat to speed up the process. The hardest part is removing the seat's right-rear bolt. I used a flexable shaft drill to get the bolt out quickly. Spend $9 and save yourself some time.

Remove the speaker grill with a small pick. You pick out the mesh part, not the edge of the grill. Remove the speakers 4 screws and throw the POC in the trash.

Be sure to crimp the factory speaker plugs onto the new Polk speakers. Polk uses thinner connectors so the wires can fall off if you don't lightly crimp them.

Use a drill to enlarge the hole towards the outside. All you need is about 1/8th of an inch.

Front speakers:

Remove the speaker grill with a small pick. You pick out the mesh part, not the edge of the grill.

Remove the old plastic speakers (yes, made of plastic). You will need a screw driver that will fit. Read below to see some options.

Connect the new wires. No need to crimp them, they use the same sized connectors. The new speakers will fit, but at first you may think they won't. Just rotate the speakers into the hole and they'll pop right in.

Here's the tricky part. The new speaker grills don't want to fit flush because of the windshield. So I cut 1/4" off the enitire edge of the grill using a pair of tin snips. This can be tricky, so take your time if you choose to go this route. I bet you could just force the grills on, but I wanted a nice fit, so I cut mine.


Tools to remove the seat:
6mm allen head socket

(2) 3/8" flex sockets, using (2) 4" extentions or one flex shaft. This is to make it easy to remove the right-rear bolt. You can use 2 flex sockets and extensions, but this is easier:

This is a flex socket and extension:



To remove/install the rear speakers, the tools needed are:
Phillips head screw driver
1/8" drill bit and power drill (to enlarge the hole by just a little for the new speakers)
A small pick to remove the speaker grill.
Crimps (to make sure the new wires stay on the speakers)

To remove/install the front speakers, the tools needed are:
Small, ratching screw driver. This is optional, but will save you time!

Instead of buying the $9 ratching screw driver, you could use a small "L-Shaped" screw driver like this (off-set screw driver):

Or, another option would be to use a 1/4" socket and put a screw driver bit in the socket. Using a very small ratchet, you can get to most of the screws. Then the one's near the windshield you would have to find another way.
Or, if you have a 1/4" racheting wrench, you could put a 1/4" drive screw bit in and go to town. Here's a 1/4" rataching wrench and then you'll need a 1/4" (common size, you already should have) screw bit for an electric scew driver.

- A small pick to remove the speaker grill.
- Optional tin snips to cut the grill down a little.

Bill

[Bill]

Originally Posted by cjl

GREAT install instructions Bill! I'm considering the same, as I'm pretty happy with the Los Angeles HU in my rig. What other speaker options did you consider - if any?

I too am considering mouting a small 4x50W amp in the passenger footwell - but probably after I replace the speakers.

I did looks at some Alpine's, but after reading the forum, I stuck with what has been known to work. The front holes can not handle any deeper speaker. The MB Quart 5.25 is right at the max debth. I was really wondering how they fit because they are tight! The Polks fit so perfect and sound so good, don't worry about another brand. The Polks are the max debth. If you wanted deeper rears, you would need to install some spacers.

- Bill

[pinmagic]

Originally Posted by Bill

Also, are the wires that easy to find? I have my doubts about how easy it would be to get to the factory speaker wires. The underside of the dash is pretty sealed. While I was working on the stereo, I went ahead and added an RCA jack for my MP3 player and a remote control for the LA. I had a he** of a time getting the wires from the back of the radio to a hole near the steering wheel (in the storage tray). It is really tight.

I would like to hear from some other people about the wires.

- Bill

Bill:

Thanks for the instructions! I JUST finished sending a PM to an audio expert on this board, to ask what speakers I should use, and if the mounts are standardized. Your post answered all that!

I think I'll do exactly what you did. That's just about all I want to invest in this radio -- the car is so noisy, you can't expect great sound, but I do want something a bit better than what's in there.

The Blaupunkt wiring harnasses are readily available. There are a couple of places online that sell them. Here's one (but shipping here is EXPENSIVE):
Blaupunkt wiring harnasses Some pop up on ebay, too. One harnass came with the radio (it should have been in the Blaupunkt box in your trunk) -- can't recall which one, but I'm pretty sure it's the one for the amp.

As for running the wires behind the dash, I just did the same thing about a week ago, going from the Blaupunkt to the cubby below the Start button, and then up to the top of the dash, where I mounted my XM roady. I had a hard time, too, getting the wires acroos, but not terrible. It's a WHOLE lot easier if you remove the aluminum (steel?) frame that the radio slides into -- the frame snaps out of the dash (after you've removed the radio, of cousre!). It makes for a larger opening you can slide your hand into, and eliminates the jagged edges of that frame.

I also just read the directions in another posting for removing the instrument cluster cowl -- I wonder if that would have made it easier.

[Bill]

Someone sent me an email about cutting the grills, so I'm going to post my reply to his question here so everyone with the same problem can get the info.

I installed the same front speakers in my Elise... I however could not get the grilles to fit since the windshield blocks it.

What did you use to cut the grilles? I tried a scissors and I tried a plyers with a snip section.

thanx
Jason

Hi Jason,

You need the right tool. I have a three piece set of Craftsman Snip Set, Sears item #00942720000 Mfr. model #4272. They come in right hand cut, left hand cut and straight cut. I used the red handled snip, which is the left hand cut. The set of three runs $29.99, or you can just buy the one snip for $14.99.




With the speaker cover in my left hand and have the speaker grill facing the ceiling, I cut clock wise with my right hand. The snips need to be facing up so they are making a left hand cut. It sounds hard, but once you do it and see it in person, it's simple.

You have to make sure you cut even all around. If you don't have any experience with snips, use a piece of masking tape and mark the cut line. Start with a 1/8" cut and see if they will fit, then cut a little more if needed. Always cut as little as possible so you have less chance of messing up the covers. You can get some practice by only cutting a 1/16" first, then go for more once you are comfortable with how to make clean, straight cuts.

I have built several Factory Five Cobra's, which use aluminum panels, so I have more experience with snips than most. So I didn't think twice about cutting off 1/8" of the grill. But I did a small cut all around, then had to go a little more. It took me 2 minutes per grill, so this is not rocket science. Just go slow and make sure you cut a straight line all around.

The key to making a clean cut is make longer cuts, instead of a bunch of little cuts. As an example, if your snips have 3" cutting blades, you should make one 3" cut. Not six 1/2" cuts. Then when you are done with your cutting, make sure the edges are smooth. Just use your fingers to flatten any high spots.

Good luck!

- Bill

(edited to include images in Gallery)

[pinmagic]

I installed the Polks in the rear today. Fit pretty well. I just had to remove the spring clips from the edges of the hole (in the Elise), and expand the holes under the clips outward just a bit. Then, I put the spring clips back on, and the speaker fit.

Must say that pulling out the passenger seat was the biggest hurdle for me. I needed to figure out what tools would reach, buy them at Home Depot, and overcome the fear of cross-threading (which at least 2 people on this board say they've done). Worked out fine. Actually, the hardest bolt to remove was the front right, cause there's so little room to get an allen wrench under the seat there.

But the rear is done! Definitely sounds a lot better. Can't wait for my MB Quarts to arrive for the front!

[Dro]

Last weekend I installed the polk DB650's in the rear and the MB Quart's RKC 113's in the front. I wanted to pass along my experiences.

1. The flex shaft didn't work for me at all. I broke it about half an hour after I bought it. :-( Using two flex sockets and 2 extensions worked much better for me for removing the passenger seat.

2. The Polks fit perfectly. I had to push back with a little force to compress the padding/noise material behind the speakers but no problems besides that.

3. I don't know if the RKC's are a different size than the MBQ's Bill installed, but they were a bit of a pain to install and didn't fit perfectly. The mounting rings have about 1/8" gap above the dash, and they were very tight to fit. So tight in fact that I think it compressed the rings a bit and the speakers also do not sit flush in the rings. But the covers fit fine. I did not have to trim the covers to get them to seat correctly.

4. The RKC's have crossovers and they fit fine underneath the dash.

5. Despite the questionable fit of the RKC's, everything sounds awesome. It's hard to believe the sound I have now is thru the same head unit. Before, I didn't even bother turning it on, because it sounded so crappy. Now, it sounds great.

Grade: A-. Less than perfect fit, but awesome sound.

[Genjuro]

Originally Posted by JLElise

What a great idea...maybe it'll save me from having to remove the passenger seat

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshow...=360-179&DID=7

I couldn't find the skewdriver locally, but I picked up a set of these ratcheting drivers:



They had a kit of 3 (strait, offset, reverse offset) for $20. They are REALLY nice.

(edited to include images in Gallery)