Installing the ForcedFed's Cold Air Intake

[Randy Chase]

Step by Step Instructions

Tools needed-

Floor Jack
Tools to remove rear wheel
Flat and Philips Screwdriver
Set of Sockets (specially 13mm)
Set of wrenches (specially 7,8,9,10mm)
Allen Wrench
A couple of tie wraps

I recommend another person or a small clamp. I also recommend ratcheting wrenches to speed things up.

1. Remove the stock air inlet tube. This is the rubber tube going from the air box to the intake manifold. Using a flat screwdriver, loosen the stainless steel clamps on both ends. Once loose enough, pull away from the manifold and then the air box. The inlet tube and the clamps will not be re-used.

2. Unplug the VSV connector. Always use care when removing the connectors. Depress the tab on the side to unlock the connector and then remove the mating part. The VSV is the module with the orangish connector in the next picture. Here you see the intake tube has been removed, and the mating connector from the VSV has also been removed.



3. Unplug the mating connector to the MAF (Mass Air Flow sensor). This is the black squarish device located on the air box. The connector is longer and has a similar locking tab on the side.

4. Remove both vacuum lines going to the VSV. You may find it easier to use a combination of gentle pulling and a flat bladed screwdriver to get the tubes to release.

5. In the above picture, you can see a "T" fitting on the vacuum lines. There is a small rubber plug on one port on the "T." The vacuum lines are either going to the airbox, or they were from the VSV. One line was going to the engine. Remove that line from the engine and using the rubber cap you just removed, cap off the engine vacuum port. The rest of the vacuum lines and fittings you removed will not be re-used.

6. Using the factory jacking point, jack up the car to gain access to the rear driver's side wheel. Remove wheel from car. You may want to use a jackstand or some other method to insure your safety. You will not be working under the car, but you will be working inside the rear wheel well.

7. Remove the wheel well splash guard. This is held on with 7 plastic screws. You will probably have to also remove (pull out) the mating plastic fasteners, specially the front two. Once all screws have been removed, the trick is to bend it away from the lip of the wheel well and then extract the entire piece.



Side note, it was kinda cool seeing the date of the manufacturer for my car-

[Randy Chase]

8. From inside the wheel well, reach up and unclip the clips that hold on the airbox cover. Remove this cover and the air filter inside. You will not be reusing these.



9. From the engine bay side, remove the three 13mm hex bolts that hold the air box base to the bracket on the engine firewall. This requires some dexterity and different tools. A 13mm socket on an extension is best for the most visible bolt. Remove the air box base. Set aside the three bolts. You will not be reusing these parts, except for one 13mm bolt.

This is what it looks like now, looking up from the wheel well.

[Randy Chase]

10. Remove the MAF from the stock air box. There are two very small phillips screws. You will not be reusing the screws.

11. Unpack the new Intake Tube. Make sure the two brass hex standoffs are securely tightened down by using a wrench on them. Temporarily remove the two small allen head bolts that are threaded into the brass standoffs.

12. Install the MAF into the Intake Tube. Note orientation of the MAF. It will obviously fit one way. Using the two allen head bolts and an Allen wrench, tighten the MAF so that it sits flush on the Intake Tube. Set the Intake Tube aside.

(here things get a little interesting)

13. Unpack the heat shields. There are two black sheetmetal parts that are connected with two DZUS fasteners. If these are together, separate them now.

14. From the wheel well side, roughly fit the small heat sheild into position. It will sort of wedge in there. The two DZUS fasteners will be towards the top. The shield's bend will be towards you and the shield will sit at an angle with the two rounded openings or reliefs on the sides going around the tubes and harness bundles.

15. Remove the two bolts holding on the engine coolant reservoir. One bolt is accessed from the engine bay side easily using a 10mm wrench. The other is accessed from the wheel well side. Unbolt that one from the top using an 8mm (I think) wrench. Carefully set aside these two bolts. From the engine bay side, pull the coolant reservoir away from its mounting points. Leave all tubes attached. You will only need to just pull the reservoir aside a short distance.

16. Now place the upper shield in the engine compartment (working from engine bay side). This will take a bit of angling in to get it in. Roughly place it where it will end up. The mounting tab will be near the 13mm bolt mounting hole for the stock air box. I recommend lining up this hole and then starting to thread in the 13mm bolt. Do not fully install this bolt yet.

17. Now line up the DZUS fasteners on both the upper and lower shields. This is tricky to do and to also have access to the turning side of the fasteners. I found I could turn them with either my fingers or the edge of a dime. It may take a second person to hold things or to have three hands. My solution which worked a treat, was to use a small clamp to hold things in alignment, and then I would go to the engine bay side and tighten the fasteners (one at a time).







ForcedFed's instructions take note that you may have to reroute some coolant or wiring harness bundles, but I found I did not have to do any of that.

[Randy Chase]

18. Back to that new Inlet Tube. Slide one of the new stainless steel clamps onto the throttle body end. This is the end farther away from the MAF. Slide a silicone coupler onto that same end, making sure it extends well past the band on the end of the tube.

19. Place the other band on the tube on the throttle body. Check placement of bands so that you have easy access to the tightening screws. You may have to loosen up the bands before installing.

20. Insert the end of the Intake Tube without a silicone coupler into the hole in the new heat sheild. Slide the Intake Tube with the silicone coupler over the throttle body, sliding the stainless steel clamp over the coupler. Adjust band positions and then tighten using a flat screwdriver or a hex nut driver.





21. Going through the wheel well, install a stainless steel band and then a coupler onto the exposed end of the Intake Tube.



Note location of screwdriver and position of clamp tightening fasteners. I found you can gain access to this screw from around the suspension bits quite nicely. I also found that after initial tightening with a flat screwdriver, that I preferred final tightening with a nut driver. In my kit, to my surprise, the 4 bands required two different socket sizes.

[Randy Chase]

Almost done!

22. Install the last stainless steel band clamp onto the exposed end of the silcone oupler. Install new air filter by pushing into the coupler. Align band and tighten well.



23. Position the coolant reservoir back to where it was and tighten the two bolts.

24. Install the removed wheel well liner.

25. Put the rear wheel back on the car using standard procedures. Lower the car. Torque the lug nuts!!!

26. Plug the connector into the MAF.

27. Remove the VSV from the stock air box using the two screws.

28. Plug the VSV back into its connector. Zip tie the VSV to somewhere in the engine compartment. I used the vertical metal bracket for the coolant reservoir.

29. Close the boot. Put away the tools. Place all the stock items no longer being used in a container so they won't be lost.



30. Drive.

31. BIG GRIN

[Randy Chase]

My thoughts about the CAI and the install.

* Everything looked top drawer. Face it, if someone was motivated enough, one could do this from Home Depot, Kragen, and a lot of time and swearing. What you pay for is a nicely designed kit that makes it very simple and looks professional, and works. This does that.

* Fit was perfect.

* Everything was well packed in a lot of bubble wrap.

* I think the instructions are a work in progress. Since this is a new poduct, this is not a surprise. Perhaps Brett can use some of my instructions? I don't want to be presumptious. But not everyone is going to know that the VSV is for example. I personally really like it when instructions include wrench sizes. It makes the job go easier.

* Installation was not hard. Once I kinda figured out where the heat shields went, that was easy. Total time was about an hour to do this entire job. Maybe 90 minutes if you took your time.

* Driving impressions? Well, it turns out I was down a little on power anyway because my air filter was so dirty.



And I am also not a great believer in subjective butt dynos. But holy crap, the car comes alive now in the upper power band. At least I think it does. Only a dyno would provide real data and it would have to be vs a clean stock air filter. I can only say it feels good.

* Sound? This is the best part. There is this inner kid that just likes making noise and seeing food that is on fire. I missed the Quicksilver exhaust since I removed it and went back to stock. This easily makes me just as happy. The difference is that the exhaust makes noise based on RPMs, the intake of course makes noise based on throttle. At idle and staying off the gas, you can really hear some intake sounds, but it is not obviously loud or anything. Just a little hiss or quiet woosh. But when you floor it, OH MY GAWD. I REALLY like it. REALLY. I want to just drive and floor it all over town.

So, overall I love this CAI. I think ForcedFed has a nice product, specially for those of us not interested in going to the turbo route (yet).

[Stan]

In post #3, PIC #2 you can see the split tube grommet aound the ID of the intake tube hole in the black shield. If it would be visible when completed, it might be nice to reposition the cut end of the grommet from around 8 o'clock to something like 4 o'clock. That way the split is not apparent when gazing into the engine bay.

[MickOpalak]

How much for the intake? How many HP did it get you?

[AZRED]

Randy,
does the cold air box move you out of SS?
Thanks
AZRED

[Randy Chase]

Originally Posted by AZRED

Randy,
does the cold air box move you out of SS?
Thanks
AZRED

Yes, we have decided to take the yellow car to ASP and keep the green car in SS. That way we can go down two develoment paths and see what we can learn.

[Randy Chase]

Originally Posted by MickOpalak

How much for the intake? How many HP did it get you?

http://www.forcedfed.com/elise/airintakes.html

$425.00

Brett did some dyno testing. I have not. I just put this on last night.

[Randy Chase]

Originally Posted by Stan

In post #3, PIC #2 you can see the split tube grommet aound the ID of the intake tube hole in the black shield. If it would be visible when completed, it might be nice to reposition the cut end of the grommet from around 8 o'clock to something like 4 o'clock. That way the split is not apparent when gazing into the engine bay.

Good point Stan.

[Ground Loop]

Originally Posted by Randy Chase

I don't want to be presumptious. But not everyone is going to know that the VSV is for example.

Some of us still don't.

Nice writeup! This looks like something within reach of my meager tools and skills. Can't wait to hear yours.

And since nobody else asked the cliche, I'll pretend I care -- what did the spare parts weigh vs. the kit?

If I could change one thing, it would be to make all the parts Black. Nothing seems to irritate smog inspector putz's like purple silicone parts. Once they see hose clamps and purple pipe, they start asking for CARB EO stickers and... a tip.

From the sound of it, the kit is entirely reversible, though.

[Randy Chase]

Vacuum Switching Valve(s)

I did not weigh anything, but I am guessing it is a weight savings.

The filters are about the same.

The intake tubes are about the same.

The stock airbox and all of it's stuff... vs the heat shield is the only difference, and I think the heat shield weighs less. But I am not taking it out of the car to check.

[Randy Chase]

Originally Posted by Ground Loop

If I could change one thing, it would be to make all the parts Black. Nothing seems to irritate smog inspector putz's like purple silicone parts. Once they see hose clamps and purple pipe, they start asking for CARB EO stickers and... a tip.

From the sound of it, the kit is entirely reversible, though.

I think it would be incredibly simple to change out the one silicone coupler, you would not have to remove anything else but those two hose clamps. Perhaps some high temp paint would work on it before installing?

[ChrisStarrUSA]

Randy,

Nice documentation on the install. Was wondering - what kind of maintenance is required on the new filter? How often is it cleaned/replaced? Any special recommendations? Also, is it a big deal to change the filter (does the wheel need to come off again, etc.)? Thanks!!

Chris

[Randy Chase]

Originally Posted by ChrisStarrUSA

Randy,

Nice documentation on the install. Was wondering - what kind of maintenance is required on the new filter? How often is it cleaned/replaced? Any special recommendations? Also, is it a big deal to change the filter (does the wheel need to come off again, etc.)? Thanks!!

Chris

I am wondering also about maintenance on the filter. I am used to using K&Ns with the oil applied to it. I hope Brett adds to his instructions the cleaning requirements.

To get to it, will require removing the rear wheel and wheel liner. I am wondering if you have to do that to get to the stock air filter? It seems like it would have been hard to reach those clips from the top.

Anyway, removing the wheel and wheel liner is a 10 minute job. No biggie.

[MitchT]

Do u have to access the new filter thru the wheel well arch, or can u find a way to go thru the intake grill at the end of the driver side door?

Just asking, I would not want to take out the heat shield to change the air filter in the future , looks like a excellant part .

[LarryB]

I'm sure Brett can chime in. When I talked to him about maintenance, said it was like a K&N and would needed to be oiled. At some point it may need to be replaced, would be nice to know the details for a replacement filter.

Randy thanks for the great write-up. If I hadn't been so lazy this weekend would have picked one up and installed it by now.

[Randy Chase]

Originally Posted by MitchT

Do u have to access the new filter thru the wheel well arch, or can u find a way to go thru the intake grill at the end of the driver side door?

Just asking, I would not want to take out the heat shield to change the air filter in the future , looks like a excellant part .

You do not have to touch the heat shield. The simplest way is to remove the wheel and wheel liner, it is very easy.