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Old 12-27-2012, 07:38 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Condensation in Trunk = Mold + Smell

Hey guys, I've got mold growing in my trunk! I have no idea where the moisture is coming from. I'm pretty sure it's not rain water that is getting in (though I could be wrong) because I've had the car parked in the garage and out of the rain for a week or so now. There seems to be condensation building up in there. I can see the condensation just hanging out on the fiberglass of the trunk interior. The mold has taken over my trunk bootie and started growing on all the electrical harnesses of the taillights, too.

Anyone got any guesses as to how this is happening?!
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Old 12-27-2012, 07:50 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Mine done that too and after I switched to a dry cell battery it never happened again. Something to do with the moisture in the battery and not being ventilated enough is kinda what I thought it was.
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Old 12-27-2012, 07:52 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Hmm... that wouldn't be the case for me. I've got the Chimera C.B.S.
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Old 12-27-2012, 08:58 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Wow that sounds terrible. take everything out and leave the hatch open. you can use a bowl of baking soda to help control the moisture.

BTW post pics if you can.
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Old 12-28-2012, 01:56 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Throw a few large dessicant packs in there for the meantime to protect the wiring at the very least.
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Old 12-28-2012, 03:13 AM   #6 (permalink)
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One word

Name:  ImageUploadedByAutoguide1356696727.672690.jpg
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Size:  117.2 KB


Eh, suppose that's two... But, here in FL it's a commonly used word; and product.


And you probably should close the hatch while it does its work

Based on your description, I would think you'll need more than one "treatment"
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Old 12-28-2012, 01:17 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Yeah, I might try that. I have had two desiccant packs in the trunk for the week and it hasn't really helped. Somehow moisture is getting. I need to find the root cause. Ugh.
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Old 12-28-2012, 01:38 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Put one of these in and the next day it'll be full.

Don't know if its good or bad, but I usually ripped the inside paper lid off and allow the material to be fully exposed.
Used a couple of these after our last hurricane... A Florida staple.... Er, I was going to say DampRid is; but I suppose so are hurricanes


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Calcium chloride - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Good luck
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Old 01-04-2013, 11:30 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Have a look and the bolts (underside) that hold on the rear wing on........ that's where mine is leaking..
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Old 01-05-2013, 03:59 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Mine was leaking underneath the drain hole on the drivers side of the engine bay. The fiberglass was missing some glue. I could shine a flashlight from the engine bay and see light above the battery in the trunk. A little high temp silicon did the trick.
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Old 01-05-2013, 08:41 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Mine got really close to getting water when the drain holes got plugged. I knew about the issue from the Elise (which I got to the point of just taking all the carpet and foam inside) and I caught it just in time. Now I clean the holes constantly (even though it spends most of its time in the garage).
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Old 01-05-2013, 06:13 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Finman View Post
Have a look and the bolts (underside) that hold on the rear wing on........ that's where mine is leaking..
Ah! Just checked this today! There IS water coming from the bolts that hold the wing on! Wtf? How the heck can we fix this? Was thinking of using thread sealant...
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Old 01-05-2013, 07:07 PM   #13 (permalink)
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That sucks - I have mold in the cabin presently - due to the car sitting at the shop for a few weeks no doubt (it was probably outside, so any water which got in could contribute to the problem.)

One thing you could do is take a tad of silicone sealant and put it around the bolts. Ideally you would do it from the top side, but I don't think that's possible. Silicone sealant can be peeled off later, too.

Take the carpet out, steam clean it then then dry it thoroughly before putting it back in with some dessicant.
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Old 01-07-2013, 07:43 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Well, see the attached photos. All that spooge on the cables? Mold. And the label on the tailight housing? You can read the words on there because I wiped off a thick layer of mold. Awesome.

So I did indeed identify the leak as coming from the four mounting holes for the wing. Lotus decided not to seal those up... Thanks. I would recommend everyone undo those four bolts and buy some rubber washers to seal the wing against the top-side of the mounting points. That is if you can even remove the bolts in the first place!

One of my four bolts was rusted on and wouldn't come off.

First attempt stripped the allen head with a nice blast of sparks. That was cool. Then a buddy and I ground a slot into the head and tried turning it with a fatty flat-head. Still didn't budge. So we decided (like idiots) to just grind off the head completely and clamp it with a vice grip. That didn't work either. That sucker has become one with the wing.

Now I have no way of removing the wing from the hatch as the bolt is still in the wing and there's no way to angle it out because the mesh gets in the way. I was thinking if I can remove the mesh, I'd be golden. But I am not sure the best way to go about doing so. I've tried searching to see if anyone has removed the hatch mesh but haven't found anything. This was supposed to be a half hour and $3 at MOST. Now it's who-the-hell-knows how much time and money. Can anyone offer some advice?

Besides using this as an excuse to purchase a carbon fiber hatch and bigger wing.
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Old 01-07-2013, 07:57 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Can you take a pic of the bolt in question so we can get a look at how far gone it is? Just from the top of my head, is it possible to grind the head completely off to get the wing off of the car, and then once removed, you would probably have enough surface to properly grip with a pair of vise grips. If not, you might be able to drill a hole in the center of the bolt and use an easy out (I first recommend using some Aerokroil to loosen the rusted threads up a bit). If you do manage to get the bastard out, I highly recommend using stainless bolts in the future to prevent the rusting issue.

Hopefully this helps
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Old 01-07-2013, 08:32 PM   #16 (permalink)
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If you acquire a small amount of isothiazolone compounds, dilute it greatly down to ~10 ppm, and lightly spray your trunk, you will *never* have mold again. Or bacteria. or microorganisms of any kind....
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Old 01-09-2013, 05:25 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Ok, so here are some pictures I snapped of what the problem I'm having. You'll see in the wide shot the four bolts that hold the wing on. The bottom right one is the bolt that is rusted in, the bastard. As you can see in the close-up shots, the bolt extractor we tried using actually broke off IN THE BOLT. So... yeah. THAT happened. Which is pretty sweet. You can probably tell we tried widening the fibreglass around the bolt so we could try getting some vice grips on there, but no dice.

I also took a shot top-side of the wing to illustrate how the situation is totally fu cked here, dude. Thanks, Walter. Because the bolt is stuck in the wing strut, and the mesh is flush with the strut, there is no way for me to pull the wing out.

Any ideas?
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Old 01-09-2013, 05:26 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Also, sorry about the giant photos. Right click and open in a new tab and your browser should resize it to the window if you've set the preference for it.

EDIT: Fixed picture size.
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Old 01-11-2013, 04:25 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Couple of ideas. Do you have access to someone with a welder? If so, possible to spot weld another bolt onto the end of this one to allow you to get a hex wrench on it. Barring that, have you tried using a solder iron to heat up the bolt to loosen the threads a little? It will take a while to heat it up, but this has worked on some nasty little buggers on my old Spitfire before. Can't use a torch in there due to the tightness of the fiberglass around the bolt. Also, if you go to Tacoma Screw you can buy a coupling nut, effectively a nut that is about half inch to inch long. You could use this to grab the threads on the existing bolt and join it to another bolt, and use that bolt to remove the old one. Not sure if this is clear or not, but you can PM me for more details if you want. I might be able to venture over that way sometime next week, if I am off of work.


Later
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Old 01-11-2013, 04:27 PM   #20 (permalink)
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One other idea, but it will take some time. Use a Dremel to grind some flat spots on that rounded off end, might be able to get a small open end wrench on it.

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