Rear clam removal: what a mess!

[onthebeach]

Hi.

I'm trying to remove the rear clam of my 08 Exige.
I have several problems for which I can't find the solution alone.
I hope you could help me...

Problem 1: the fuel cap
I have remove all the allen screws around the aluminium ring but I cannot take this out.
It seems that it is "glued" to the body and I do not dare to use some tools on the edges to take it out.
If I leave it mounted unscrewed, will it get off together with the clam?

Problem 2: the speakers panel behind the seats.
that is really the wall for me!
I learned that I should take this out for removing screws behind this panel.
The problem is as you can see in the pictures below that I cannot remove it as the Lotus harness bar in in front of the panel.
I removed the seat belt fixing point at the top but still could not go get access to remove the harness bar...

So please what are the next steps??????

Thanks for your help!

François

[azac]

I am trying to remove the rear clam of my 08 Exige.
I have several problems for which I can't find the solution alone.
I hope you could help me...

]Problem 2: the speakers panel behind the seats.[/b]
that is really the wall for me!
I learned that I should take this out for removing screws behind this panel.
The problem is as you can see in the pictures below that I cannot remove it as the Lotus harness bar in in front of the panel.
I removed the seat belt fixing point at the top but still could not go get access to remove the harness bar...

Drill out the plastic rivets for the speaker mounts, pull the mounts (disconnect speaker wires). This gives access to the harness bar bolts behind the rollbar. It is a bit awkward. There is a large spacer/washer behind each bolt head that is unique. Do not misplace those. Reassembly will require new plastic rivets. I used ones from Auveco that were brittle and difficult. The ones from Lotus may be better.

[Thomasio]

Re: prob 1: You need to separate them from the clam. There is a gasket between them that is probably stuck from being connected for a while. Gentle pressure will separate them, of course after you have removed the bolts.

Re: prob 2: No need to drill those out... use gentle pressure with a "pick" tool to pull the speaker covers off. Go slowly, working a star pattern around the speaker covers.. once off, there are four screws holding the speakers in.

PM me with your phone number, I can call you and walk you through the steps. Don't get frustrated, you are almost there!

[onthebeach]

Thanks for your help Azac and Tomasio.
Thomasio, are you sure I can remove the rivets wihtout drilling them?
From what I can see I understand I must drill the center pin.
Have you removed them already on this model?
If you remove the rivets, can you reuse them?
If not, what do you suggest: new plastic rivets or parker swrews + washers?
Thanks for your phone proposal but I'm in Belgium!

François

[tesprit]

Originally Posted by onthebeach

Thanks for your help Azac and Tomasio.
Thomasio, are you sure I can remove the rivets wihtout drilling them?
From what I can see I understand I must drill the center pin.
Have you removed them already on this model?
If you remove the rivets, can you reuse them?
If not, what do you suggest: new plastic rivets or parker swrews + washers?
Thanks for your phone proposal but I'm in Belgium!

François

You do not need to remove the rivets. Instead use a pin type tool to pull/pop the mesh grille of the speaker out of its plastic surround. Then remove the screws that you can now see that are behind those grilles.

[Thomasio]

Originally Posted by tesprit

You do not need to remove the rivets. Instead use a pin type tool to pull/pop the mesh grille of the speaker out of its plastic surround. Then remove the screws that you can now see that are behind those grilles.

Exactly. No need to remove the speaker flange that is riveted. The mesh covers come off to expose the screws.

[Clovis]

The speaker grills are honestly the easier part of all this. Getting the right combination of sockets to get to the harness bar bolts is the tricky part. Think deep socket....cut down...or maybe you'll have the perfect extension. The bulkhead is very close to the bar so there is almost no clearance for your rachet. Enjoy!

[Thomasio]

Originally Posted by Clovis

The speaker grills are honestly the easier part of all this. Getting the right combination of sockets to get to the harness bar bolts is the tricky part. Think deep socket....cut down...or maybe you'll have the perfect extension. The bulkhead is very close to the bar so there is almost no clearance for your rachet. Enjoy!

I agree 100%... that is the most frustrating part. Expect sore wrists. Compound - cussing will help ease the frustration.

[RoadDad]

This will help you get the rear panel off: Sport Pack Harness Bar and Rear Panel Removal?

[onthebeach]

Once again thanks for your help.
I'll try first to remove the grilles.
Have you removed them already on the ALPINE speakers?
If you did, do the grilles still hold once re-applied?

François

[Thomasio]

Originally Posted by onthebeach

Once again thanks for your help.
I'll try first to remove the grilles.
Have you removed them already on the ALPINE speakers?
If you did, do the grilles still hold once re-applied?

François

Francois - yes, this is the procedure for the Alpine speakers. The grilles are held in place with a friction fit. They will hold in place once they are re-installed.

[onthebeach]

Thanks Thomasio!
I try that this afternoon and let you know!

[onthebeach]

Hi, I'm back again!

I finally managed to get access to both clam bolts behind the speaker panel WITHOUT removing this panel.
Based on your help, I removed the speakers and got a (difficult) access to these bolts.

The fuel cap is also gone, perfect.

The only thing remaining is the weather strip.
I have two choices: take it off or cut it.
Based on the different threads I have seen, I would prefer to cut it at the right place.

Again, I need your precious help!
In the pictures below, where do you recommend to cut it and with which angle???

Regards.

François

[Thomasio]

You can , VERY SLOWLY and very carefully peel the weatherstrip away from the clam. You only need to do it across the top, you will see where the clam ends. Just peel it away enough to get access to pull the clam off. Basically just the flat section across the top. Make sure it is clear before you hoist the clam away, or you will tear it.

[onthebeach]

Thomasio,

Thanks for your advice but I'm afraid that It will not stick to the clam when I reinstall it, specially after a few removal of the clam. Do you agree?

I have seen some threads explaining that cutting the weatherstrip at a special place was waterproof.
Any idea where it can be?

What do you suggest?

François

[Thomasio]

Originally Posted by onthebeach

Thomasio,

Thanks for your advice but I'm afraid that It will not stick to the clam when I reinstall it, specially after a few removal of the clam. Do you agree?

I have seen some threads explaining that cutting the weatherstrip at a special place was waterproof.
Any idea where it can be?

What do you suggest?

François

It is held in place by double-sided tape. If it doesn't stick when you put it back, you can simply replace the double sided tape.

Cutting it is an option, but why do it if you don't need to? It will stick back if you are careful in removal and you don't get it dusty while the clam is removed.

[Amer]

Wow, never knew it was fairly easy to remove the rear clam.