Update pics on my S ...

[robains]

Work in progress

The CF wing/splitter will arrive on Thursday, off to the track Friday evening, hopefully the car is more drivable/reliable now. Installing IQ3 oil temp, pressure, water temp sensors tomorrow (uses Vnet but wiring is ready for plug and play).

Wiring is done, dash brackets built - designed to be easy to remove when done with my track days and back on the street. Still need to powder coat brackets black.

Catch cans have arrived will install tomorrow.

Opening the roof inlet was easy. Wiring was a nightmare, but I wanted to do a quality job and heat wrapped all connections. Switches work great, Red for IQ3 dash, Green for AMB lap timer, Blue is spare.

The sprayer is for show, not hooked up to anything.

Car cleaned up nicely after my ButtonWillow off at 120 or so.

Goal is to keep the car as stock looking as possible, the IQ3 dash and lap timer removes with 2 bolts and simple disconnects leaving no trace it was there. Heck, I even used grommets for any wiring holes.

More updates later this week.

Rob.

[Brent Bauman]

Rob did you change the mount for your IQ3? I liked how you had it at Buttonwillow.

[robains]

Yes, moved it over -- the problem with the mount at BW was that I couldn't see the shift lights and it was a little too close to my hands and it blocked my view of the fuel level.

I had thought about replacing the stock dash with this unit, but the car will not start without the stock dash (guessing immobilizer) so I would have to find a place to "hide" the stock dash. Also, I'd need to get fuel level sensor and figure out how to make it work with my IQ3.

If anyone knows how to make these cars work without the stock dash (immobilzer), please let me know -- I know it can be done because the cup cars do it.

Purpose of this mount is to be easy to remove/install for track events. When I have time I would love to make the IQ3 my perminant dash, but I'll need some help figuring out how to get around the immobilizer/stock dash bond.

RackPak folks are working on a CanBus module so I can tap into CanBus - not sure when that will be available so I'm holding off on any more sensors til I know (currently have Oil Pressure, Oil Temp, Water Temp). Since these are data logged, I'll know if I'm running into any oil pressure issues and where on track they might be -- if I see problems then I will need an Accusump or some other solution. My hope, is the Moroso pan is enough, but I need validation of that.

It's not about saving money for Accusump, it's more about reducing another possible failure point and increasing the already LONG distance the oil travels (to the front cooler). I'm not a big fan of long distance oil lines.

[charliex]

the immobiliser needs to have the outside pins jumpered vertically.

example , but not the connector.
1 2 3 4 5 6
7 8 9 A B C

1+7 and 6+C need to be jumpered together.

[robains]

Charlie,

I'll post pics of the connector I think you're talking about. So if I jumper these, then the immobilizer is disabled and I can disconnect the stock dash?

Thanks, Rob.

[turbophil]

Would it work if you just disarmed the immobilizer via the alarm menu? or is something different about newer cars?

Best,

Phil

[robains]

Didn't know that was an option - what Alarm menu?

I assume it would automatically re-arm when I reconnect battery? Battery disconnect is pretty common at the track.

[turbophil]

Originally Posted by robains

Didn't know that was an option - what Alarm menu?

I assume it would automatically re-arm when I reconnect battery? Battery disconnect is pretty common at the track.

I hate to be that guy, but Search Actually I hate the search stuff, but I honestly don't remember what the alarm menu sequence is. Story short is that you can go through a series of flashing lights, turning the key or some such thing (see, I can't remember) to shut off the immobilizer indefinitely- regardless of losing power to the system. That's what I did nearly 3 years ago. I never have to hit the "big button" anymore after the car has been sitting for a few minutes. The rest of the alarm works normally and fully arms when I lock the doors with the clicker...

Now, things may have changed on the later cars. Charlie is your guy for that stuff...

Are the add'l steps for the newer cars, Charlie?

Best,

Phil

[robains]

I have no problems searching for answers, didn't even know about this...definitely worth investigating.

Thanks Phil, appreciate the hints.

[robains]

Some more updates of my Exige S

Wing, splitter, catch cans, water mist system.

[shay2nak]

very nice