Eyelise's TVS install - Page 7 - LotusTalk

Eyelise · 07-30-2009, 06:53 PM

Ok I started with the fuel system upgrade. I must say it took more than one trip to the parts store to get the OEM fuel lines off. The difficult one is the one nearest to the fuel rail. It takes a particular quick connect release tool. I had to buy two before I found one that worked. There are four spring prongs inside the connection that need to be compressed. Unfortunately the ribs in the end to the fuel line block insertion of the tool. I finally bought a plastic one and was able to force it in.

Eyelise · 07-30-2009, 07:00 PM

The other connection pops off easy enough. It has an orange quick release connection. It is attached to the bracket for the coolant bottle.

Eyelise · 07-30-2009, 07:13 PM

I decided to do the overflow connection next. Partly b/c I dread any wiring. It was pretty straight forward. I just haven't got a clue how to route the long return hose along the firewall.

Eyelise · 07-30-2009, 07:31 PM

I mounted the Tank and took a look at the fuel lines. Maybe I was tired but I couldn't sort the connections. It should be simple but I got lost in the instructions. A diagram would really help here. I'm a visual guy. The surge tank has 4 connections, the regulator has 4, and we have the plastic hardline from the gas tank and the line to the fuel rail line. I know the side connection on the tank goes to the plastic hardline from the main gas tank. I believe the tank connection furthest left is the overflow line. I need help with the rest LOL. Phil a 1,2,3 match the numbers would be nice.

Dragon · 07-31-2009, 02:01 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Eyelise

I mounted the Tank and took a look at the fuel lines. Maybe I was tired but I couldn't sort the connections. It should be simple but I got lost in the instructions. A diagram would really help here. I'm a visual guy. The surge tank has 4 connections, the regulator has 4, and we have the plastic hardline from the gas tank and the line to the fuel rail line. I know the side connection on the tank goes to the plastic hardline from the main gas tank. I believe the tank connection furthest left is the overflow line. I need help with the rest LOL. Phil a 1,2,3 match the numbers would be nice.

Do you mean something like this pic:

It's in the instructions at this link on the BOE Fabrication web site..

robains · 07-31-2009, 08:09 AM

Pic of the fuel release "tool" is in Phil's docs online, the plastic ones work great (cheap and simple).

Hint of the filler cap/neck -- good idea to mark it's position so that when you tighten it back up and put the clam back on it'll fit. -- if you removed it or losened it.

Another suggestion -- since you have version 1 of the fuel surge tank (like me, or was I version Beta) you might want to use some thick duty heat shrink wrap on the Power terminals covering wire and nuts.

Rob

darkSol · 07-31-2009, 08:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by robains

Hint of the filler cap/neck -- good idea to mark it's position so that when you tighten it back up and put the clam back on it'll fit. -- if you removed it or losened it.

Wish I knew/had thought of this before removing the entire cap/filler assembly. My cap is currently recessed just a bit too far - I think I have to cut about an inch more of filler hose off... makes fillups interesting

p.s. Don't want to threadjack but from no bars and 5 miles to station pump full "click" off was 13.32 gallons last night with the ProAlloy tank (54 litre capacity).

Eyelise · 07-31-2009, 10:18 AM

Damn too late. No idea how it will align.

Quote:

Originally Posted by robains

Pic of the fuel release "tool" is in Phil's docs online, the plastic ones work great (cheap and simple).

Hint of the filler cap/neck -- good idea to mark it's position so that when you tighten it back up and put the clam back on it'll fit. -- if you removed it or losened it.

Another suggestion -- since you have version 1 of the fuel surge tank (like me, or was I version Beta) you might want to use some thick duty heat shrink wrap on the Power terminals covering wire and nuts.

Rob

Eyelise · 07-31-2009, 10:19 AM

OK, this pic definitely did not print out in my instructions or I have an old set. Time to check the website for updates.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dragon

Do you mean something like this pic:

It's in the instructions at this link on the BOE Fabrication web site..

Eyelise · 07-31-2009, 10:26 AM

There appears to be a top "spout" on the FPR. What is that for?

turbophil · 07-31-2009, 10:42 AM

The top is for adjusting the FP. Simply turn the hex bolt with the pump running until you see about 52-53psi (in your case) and then hold the hex and lock it in with a wrench. the open boost reference port on the side of the reg remains open and not connected to anything...

Get the latest instructions for the surge tank and TVS... small changes to help make things simpler... I hope

Out of town for the next week. Good luck!

Phil

Eyelise · 08-03-2009, 02:23 PM

What is the preferred way to splice into a line? Do you strip the insulation and solder or cut the wire and solder the three ends together? I have no experience at all.

jim-clayton · 08-03-2009, 02:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Eyelise

What is the preferred way to splice into a line? Do you strip the insulation and solder or cut the wire and solder the three ends together? I have no experience at all.

cut the wire so you can install heat shrink

robains · 08-03-2009, 02:57 PM

What Jim said, he's da pro when it comes to wiring.

Eyelise · 08-04-2009, 06:08 PM

Jim, do you twist them all together then solder? Just wondering what it should look like prior to the heat shrink.

Quote:

Originally Posted by jim-clayton

cut the wire so you can install heat shrink

Eyelise · 08-04-2009, 06:12 PM

I assembled the TVS today. The only hitch was I couldn't get the studs out of the OEM TB. Any suggestions?

Eyelise · 08-04-2009, 06:50 PM

I ran the wires for the NGK AFR. I haven't tapped the power yet. Soldering the lambda wire to the analog out is straight forward but I wasn't sure about the power. I guess I'll cut the switched wire and solder all three together. Finding a ground shouldn't be tough. I mounted the controller as mentioned and found it on the floor of the car the next morning. The velcro didn't hold. I'll find a better mounting method. What is the deal with the calibration?

Eyelise · 08-04-2009, 07:39 PM

I got the rest of the fuel system installed no problem. The updated directions were night and day.

vao4v · 08-05-2009, 12:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Eyelise

I assembled the TVS today. The only hitch was I couldn't get the studs out of the OEM TB. Any suggestions?

Double nut them. Use some Kroil if really stuck.

Dragon · 08-05-2009, 02:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vao4v

Double nut them. Use some Kroil if really stuck.

And if you don't mind ruining them you can use a vice grips...

07-30-2009, 06:53 PM	#121 (permalink)
Eyelise Registered User Join Date: Aug 2003 Location: Mass Posts: 1,129	Ok I started with the fuel system upgrade. I must say it took more than one trip to the parts store to get the OEM fuel lines off. The difficult one is the one nearest to the fuel rail. It takes a particular quick connect release tool. I had to buy two before I found one that worked. There are four spring prongs inside the connection that need to be compressed. Unfortunately the ribs in the end to the fuel line block insertion of the tool. I finally bought a plastic one and was able to force it in. Attached Images

07-30-2009, 07:00 PM	#122 (permalink)
Eyelise Registered User Join Date: Aug 2003 Location: Mass Posts: 1,129	The other connection pops off easy enough. It has an orange quick release connection. It is attached to the bracket for the coolant bottle. Attached Images

07-30-2009, 07:13 PM	#123 (permalink)
Eyelise Registered User Join Date: Aug 2003 Location: Mass Posts: 1,129	I decided to do the overflow connection next. Partly b/c I dread any wiring. It was pretty straight forward. I just haven't got a clue how to route the long return hose along the firewall. Attached Images

07-30-2009, 07:31 PM	#124 (permalink)
Eyelise Registered User Join Date: Aug 2003 Location: Mass Posts: 1,129	I mounted the Tank and took a look at the fuel lines. Maybe I was tired but I couldn't sort the connections. It should be simple but I got lost in the instructions. A diagram would really help here. I'm a visual guy. The surge tank has 4 connections, the regulator has 4, and we have the plastic hardline from the gas tank and the line to the fuel rail line. I know the side connection on the tank goes to the plastic hardline from the main gas tank. I believe the tank connection furthest left is the overflow line. I need help with the rest LOL. Phil a 1,2,3 match the numbers would be nice. Attached Images Last edited by Eyelise : 07-30-2009 at 07:56 PM.

07-31-2009, 08:09 AM	#126 (permalink)
robains 2007 Exige S Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: CA, Bay Area Posts: 1,820	Pic of the fuel release "tool" is in Phil's docs online, the plastic ones work great (cheap and simple). Hint of the filler cap/neck -- good idea to mark it's position so that when you tighten it back up and put the clam back on it'll fit. -- if you removed it or losened it. Another suggestion -- since you have version 1 of the fuel surge tank (like me, or was I version Beta) you might want to use some thick duty heat shrink wrap on the Power terminals covering wire and nuts. Rob __________________ '07 Exige S (Track Pack & LSD) + EFi 550ci injectors + Mahle 9:1 + DRS Port + SuperTech Valves + Weapon R Header + 2.9" pully + TODA Clutch + FF Engine Damper + RLS IC + Greddy catch cans + opened roof slot + RTD brace + Milled steering arms + Larini 8" + FF air intake + Moroso oil pan + Ultradisc 2 piece front/rear + Reverie 1650mm wing + ReVerie front splitter + IQ3 Dash + 4pt ASM + Pioneer AVIC-N2 nav + rear camera + RAC monolites 888s 195/225 + Lotus LSS Hoosier R6 205/225 @ 1921 lbs

07-31-2009, 10:26 AM	#130 (permalink)
Eyelise Registered User Join Date: Aug 2003 Location: Mass Posts: 1,129	There appears to be a top "spout" on the FPR. What is that for?

07-31-2009, 10:42 AM	#131 (permalink)
turbophil Plug Whisperer Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Kansas City/ Overland Park Posts: 2,544 Images: 6	The top is for adjusting the FP. Simply turn the hex bolt with the pump running until you see about 52-53psi (in your case) and then hold the hex and lock it in with a wrench. the open boost reference port on the side of the reg remains open and not connected to anything... Get the latest instructions for the surge tank and TVS... small changes to help make things simpler... I hope Out of town for the next week. Good luck! Phil __________________ \| '05 GG LSS Elise \| A Track Chariot \| BOE ClamHinge \| BOE TVS SuperCharger 280whp/180wtq \| EFI Standalone Engine Management \| BOE Fuel Surge System \| BOE Lotus Tow Package See my car at BOE Fabrication: www.boefabrication.com *----->Last Updated: 9/25/2009* If something ain't worth doing right, it ain't worth doing... *Whoever thought working on a Lotus is hard, clearly hasn't tried it. Pick up a wrench and get some grease under your nails*

08-03-2009, 02:23 PM	#132 (permalink)
Eyelise Registered User Join Date: Aug 2003 Location: Mass Posts: 1,129	soldering What is the preferred way to splice into a line? Do you strip the insulation and solder or cut the wire and solder the three ends together? I have no experience at all.

08-03-2009, 02:57 PM	#134 (permalink)
robains 2007 Exige S Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: CA, Bay Area Posts: 1,820	What Jim said, he's da pro when it comes to wiring. __________________ '07 Exige S (Track Pack & LSD) + EFi 550ci injectors + Mahle 9:1 + DRS Port + SuperTech Valves + Weapon R Header + 2.9" pully + TODA Clutch + FF Engine Damper + RLS IC + Greddy catch cans + opened roof slot + RTD brace + Milled steering arms + Larini 8" + FF air intake + Moroso oil pan + Ultradisc 2 piece front/rear + Reverie 1650mm wing + ReVerie front splitter + IQ3 Dash + 4pt ASM + Pioneer AVIC-N2 nav + rear camera + RAC monolites 888s 195/225 + Lotus LSS Hoosier R6 205/225 @ 1921 lbs

08-04-2009, 06:12 PM	#136 (permalink)
Eyelise Registered User Join Date: Aug 2003 Location: Mass Posts: 1,129	I assembled the TVS today. The only hitch was I couldn't get the studs out of the OEM TB. Any suggestions? Attached Images

08-04-2009, 06:50 PM	#137 (permalink)
Eyelise Registered User Join Date: Aug 2003 Location: Mass Posts: 1,129	I ran the wires for the NGK AFR. I haven't tapped the power yet. Soldering the lambda wire to the analog out is straight forward but I wasn't sure about the power. I guess I'll cut the switched wire and solder all three together. Finding a ground shouldn't be tough. I mounted the controller as mentioned and found it on the floor of the car the next morning. The velcro didn't hold. I'll find a better mounting method. What is the deal with the calibration? Attached Images Last edited by Eyelise : 08-04-2009 at 08:01 PM.

08-04-2009, 07:39 PM	#138 (permalink)
Eyelise Registered User Join Date: Aug 2003 Location: Mass Posts: 1,129	I got the rest of the fuel system installed no problem. The updated directions were night and day. Attached Images

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