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Old 08-05-2009, 05:28 AM   #141 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eyelise View Post
Jim, do you twist them all together then solder? Just wondering what it should look like prior to the heat shrink.
Twist is good. two on one side and one the other.
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Old 08-05-2009, 07:38 AM   #142 (permalink)
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I tried to double nut them but the nuts spinn off. I have to reuse them so I don't want to use a vise grip. Maybe I'm doing the double nut wrong?



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Double nut them. Use some Kroil if really stuck.
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Old 08-05-2009, 07:40 AM   #143 (permalink)
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got it will do. I'll be working on wiring today.

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Twist is good. two on one side and one the other.
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Old 08-05-2009, 11:55 AM   #144 (permalink)
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I ran into a little trouble mounting the TB to the swan neck. I need a little input from Phil.

First, one of the 4 bolts coming from the SC/swan neck adapter is spinning when I try to tighten the nut holding the swan neck in place. The others were fine. It is not loose just not tight.

The other issue has to do with mounting the TB. One of the OEM bolts appears too long. The studs are fine but one of the OEM bolts will not tighten down all the way. Phil, I did not see any new hardware. I'm sure the studs are in the right place. They are too short for any other location.
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Old 08-05-2009, 02:30 PM   #145 (permalink)
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I believe Phil is on vacation in deepest parts of Colorado, think he'll be back next week.

If you can post a pic of what your issue(s) is, I might be able to provide some guideance. I'm not a TVS guy but might be able to give you some suggestions.

Rob.
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Last edited by robains : 08-06-2009 at 08:26 AM.
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Old 08-06-2009, 07:04 AM   #146 (permalink)
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I'm back from the mountain peaks of CO and getting caught up on emails and PMs the best I can. Jeff, give me a ring of you're still having a question about some steps. You know I'm happy to help

Best,

Phil
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Old 08-07-2009, 01:50 PM   #147 (permalink)
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here is a pic of the bolt that doesn't seem to fit. I guess I could use a few washers. Just wondering if I did the install wrong.
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Old 08-07-2009, 01:56 PM   #148 (permalink)
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I have most of the ECU wired. It was a learning process. The first harness took me forever. I labeled every wire after tracing back to the OEM ECU harness. I also managed to solder 3 splices before sliding on the heat shrink. I guess I learn slow. The ECU reconnect harness went real quick. It took me only a fourth of the time. I still have to do the splice connect and chasis connect. I couldn't find the chasis connect in my hardware. Anyone have a pic of it? Phil?
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Old 08-07-2009, 01:58 PM   #149 (permalink)
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Color disco-ordinated

BTW Kris,

There should be a rule against using whit/violet and white/blue wires in the same harness. It will add to the soldering of the color challenged.
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Old 08-07-2009, 02:04 PM   #150 (permalink)
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Kris provided a neat little T splice crimp on the splice connect. It was filled with solder so all you had to do was heat the crimp and insert the last wire. I was able to get heat shrink over it as well. I thought it was a nice neat splice. I don't see why these can't be used for the over three T splices. Kris any thoughts?



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cut the wire so you can install heat shrink
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Old 08-08-2009, 08:41 PM   #151 (permalink)
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I finished the TB assembly. I had to trim the bolt using a cutting wheel. It only took 30sec. I also cut a small slot in another bolt to hold it while I tightened a nut.


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here is a pic of the bolt that doesn't seem to fit. I guess I could use a few washers. Just wondering if I did the install wrong.
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Old 08-08-2009, 08:54 PM   #152 (permalink)
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I finished 95% of the wiring. Now I know how to solder. The only surprise was one of the wire colors in my OEM ECU harness did not correspond to diagram from Kris. It was #20 "throttle position sensor" I traced it several times to the harness and even checked the plug going to the TB. Mine was green yellow and not orange black. After discussing it with Phil I went ahead and spliced in the green yellow wire. The only thing I can fathom is that mine was an early 05 model #0151 and it might have changed shortly there after. Phil was working on an early 05 #1750 that had the right colorsbut mine was significantly older.

Last edited by Eyelise : 08-08-2009 at 09:05 PM.
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Old 08-08-2009, 08:55 PM   #153 (permalink)
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Quote:
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Pic of the fuel release "tool" is in Phil's docs online, the plastic ones work great (cheap and simple).

Hint of the filler cap/neck -- good idea to mark it's position so that when you tighten it back up and put the clam back on it'll fit. -- if you removed it or losened it.

Another suggestion -- since you have version 1 of the fuel surge tank (like me, or was I version Beta) you might want to use some thick duty heat shrink wrap on the Power terminals covering wire and nuts.

Rob
Can the fuel line nearest the fuel rail be reused after disconnecting it using the plastic ring tool? I need a new fuel line.
-Robert

p.s. Eyelise, I'll buy your fuel line if you don't need it....and if its reusable.
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Old 08-09-2009, 09:05 AM   #154 (permalink)
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Orange/Black is water temp sensor wire so going with green/yellow was probably correct. Not sure what to say about the bolt -- I would have done a trip to the hardware store to get the correct length rather than cut it, but I'm sure it'll be fine.

Yes you can re-use stock fuel line, that's why it has disconnects.

Cheers, Rob.
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Old 08-14-2009, 07:53 AM   #155 (permalink)
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Phil,

I received the chasis connect and got it wired in. All the wiring is done now. I'm going to pull the coil and VVT wiring out on the loom as you suggested to clean things up a bit. Do you keep the plastic wiring harness mount that attaches to the valve cover? Any tips?
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Old 08-14-2009, 08:06 AM   #156 (permalink)
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I re-installed the alternator and rerouted the crank position wire as mentioned. I did notice the alternator now sits on top of a wire connection for the compressor and not the hard lines. The connector is mounted to the top of the compressor with a bracket and screw. Do I need to relocate it to make room for the SC? I remember you said it was tight. I'll post a pic later.
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Old 08-14-2009, 10:06 AM   #157 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eyelise View Post
Phil,

I received the chasis connect and got it wired in. All the wiring is done now. I'm going to pull the coil and VVT wiring out on the loom as you suggested to clean things up a bit. Do you keep the plastic wiring harness mount that attaches to the valve cover? Any tips?
Yes I do. That's where I do the "T" fro the wires that go above the intake and those that go below... You have to strip the wires back all the way to the plastic bit and wiggle stuff around a bit. If you take your time, it will come together nicely and look VERY sano. Makes everything easy to access from the top side without all the wire up ther as well.. I then take the remaining injector and VVT wires and tuck them down under the rail so they're completely out of sight...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Eyelise View Post
I re-installed the alternator and rerouted the crank position wire as mentioned. I did notice the alternator now sits on top of a wire connection for the compressor and not the hard lines. The connector is mounted to the top of the compressor with a bracket and screw. Do I need to relocate it to make room for the SC? I remember you said it was tight. I'll post a pic later.
Yes, the connector is for the AC and just needs to be removed from its little mount and pushed to the side. No biggie and plenty of wiring there. I believe I made note of that on the newer instructions that are on the website now... I think your instruction booklet is about 5 months old now

All those facotry sensor connections have a lot of extra slack, so take the time to position them where they won't get crushed. Pretty common sense type stuff as I'm sure you know

Best,

Phil
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Old 08-14-2009, 02:35 PM   #158 (permalink)
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Working on the SC install. Here is the oil dipstick before and after.
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Old 08-14-2009, 02:39 PM   #159 (permalink)
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Phil,

What the heck is this? Is it my old instructions? I didn't see it mentioned.
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Old 08-14-2009, 02:43 PM   #160 (permalink)
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For EFI to monitor boost (manifold pressure) -- it's important.
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