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Old 05-16-2008, 08:05 AM   #61 (permalink)
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Quote:
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Scotty, see post #44. ....it may just have been the cooler November air.
Maybe that's it for him, but mine does better when it's warm. It was almost undriveable when it was 20F outside this winter, even after it warmed up. When I'd pull away from lights or stop signs I had to rev it up and slip the clutch to move the car. Now that the weather is warm it's better, after the motor warms up it's barely noticeable.
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Old 05-16-2008, 12:13 PM   #62 (permalink)
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Remember that its supposed to happen after the learn, thats the whole point of the learn, when it comes from the factory the calibration is nearly always off, so it 'learns' and then adjusts the fueling to cut down the HC emissions from the exhaust at idle, its done this way to save adding SAI.
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Old 05-16-2008, 12:32 PM   #63 (permalink)
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charliex, how does it determine when the motor is warm enough for normal operation? Does it use the O2 sensor past the cat?
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Old 05-16-2008, 12:45 PM   #64 (permalink)
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There are a number of different parameters for it, coolant temp, o2 heater switch on time + current, air temp, etc.

Which leads to the why you get so much disparity over one car does it, and one car doesn't.

We might see SAI in future cars from Lotus which will help, but at a cost.
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Old 05-20-2008, 09:05 AM   #65 (permalink)
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Just to update....I warmed the car up for two minutes before driving and it was fine. Just a small hiccup at first, then off we went. This issue doesn't really seem to be an issue.
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Old 05-20-2008, 10:19 AM   #66 (permalink)
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Meh. Still is a problem for me. Ran it 20 minutes day before yesterday, as soon as I slowed down it started doing it again. Of course, it wasn't over 70 outside (the magic temperature).
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Old 05-20-2008, 10:31 AM   #67 (permalink)
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resetting the ecu is tough, you need to run the car,switch it off and then disconnect the battery before you hear the 'click' of the relays/pumps.

its easier if you get the car to throw a code, since if the reset works, it'll go away.
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Old 05-23-2008, 04:38 AM   #68 (permalink)
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Same issue on 06 DBW car and I've put about 1000 miles on since install. I kept hoping it would learn out but no luck so far. Kind of embarrassing to drive the car around until it's warmed up.
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Old 06-26-2008, 10:33 PM   #69 (permalink)
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how is this going ? did you ifne any solution? or you have to learn ot live with that issue ??
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Old 07-03-2008, 08:33 AM   #70 (permalink)
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My car bogged down when it was N/A and cold started.

It's a night and day difference after Charlie's S/C tune and RoninKatana. I can drive it immediately with no bogging issues.
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Old 08-11-2008, 04:53 AM   #71 (permalink)
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For everybody with DBW and cold start problems: try Charlie's new tune (Ronin v2: New flash for Ronin SC 2006. I ran it over the weekend; cold start is better than stock now, and the bad off-idle hesitation I had is gone. Also, running in general seems better, and the throttle response is improved.
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2006 Chrome Orange Elise: LSD/TC, Nitron SAs with 425/650 springs, BWR 7/8" Front Bar, Eliseparts bumpsteer kit, VF Stage 2, 2bular Header + Sport Cat + 8x24 GT3 Muffler, ECU Tune by Jermaine, Smaay's fuel rail, ACT XT clutch, Saikou Michi dual catch can, Moroso pan, Manly's mount inserts & FF Engine Damper
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Old 08-20-2008, 07:19 PM   #72 (permalink)
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for all those bogging issues, have you guys clean the MAF real good?

or use a new MAF?

it's a fairly common issue for the car to bog or stumble with the wonky MAF sensor in.
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Old 08-21-2008, 07:16 AM   #73 (permalink)
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for all those bogging issues, have you guys clean the MAF real good?

or use a new MAF?

it's a fairly common issue for the car to bog or stumble with the wonky MAF sensor in.
We tried that on mine, no difference.
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2006 Chrome Orange Elise: LSD/TC, Nitron SAs with 425/650 springs, BWR 7/8" Front Bar, Eliseparts bumpsteer kit, VF Stage 2, 2bular Header + Sport Cat + 8x24 GT3 Muffler, ECU Tune by Jermaine, Smaay's fuel rail, ACT XT clutch, Saikou Michi dual catch can, Moroso pan, Manly's mount inserts & FF Engine Damper
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Old 11-18-2008, 04:57 AM   #74 (permalink)
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FYI, I just got the updated Katana flash from CharlieX and the cold start problem has gone away.
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Old 11-18-2008, 05:09 AM   #75 (permalink)
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Is it normal for my Katana Elise to run really rough until it is warmed up to ~160 degrees? When I first start the car, it will start right up, but when I touch the gas it wants to bog down. I have to really rev it up to keep the car from stalling until it is warmed up. Idling is fine, this is only when I'm pressing the gas. After it is warmed up, it drives very nice.

Thanks!

My BWR does the same thing.
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Old 11-18-2008, 07:14 AM   #76 (permalink)
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FYI, I just got the updated Katana flash from CharlieX and the cold start problem has gone away.
+1. Wish I could delete this thread now. haha.
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