My FF Exige S engine expired yesterday...

[robains]

Great, thank you folks, I'm receiving a lot of options here, need to see what fits my needs the best.

Much appreciated for the help/input.

Rob.

[robains]

Quick question: can someone confirm that the engine that goes in the Exige S doesn't have a modified crank and rods? My understanding (which I admit could be very wrong) was the engines Lotus put into the Exige S used a different crank and rods from the standard Toyota 2ZZ.

Thanks, Rob.

[darkSol]

Rob,

It's the exact same Toyota 2ZZ-GE engine (head, shortblock and accessories) used in all Elise/Exige variants.

[robains]

Excellent, thank you. That link you provided, do you know if those are brand new crate short blocks, not rebuilds?

Rob.

[robains]

Some pics of my progress with engine repair...

Short Block is supposed to arrive at my house tomorrow according to FedEx tracking.

Any hints on AC lines? I was planning to leave them attached and hoist the motor up enough so that I can remove the AC compressor -- is this possible?

[turbophil]

Hey Rob,

Looking good...

There are 3 bolts holding the compressor on. One on top and two on the bottom. All three can easily be removed from the top side with a ratcheting wrench...they're 12mm heads. Simply remove them and then flip the AC compressor up and over the roll bar braces. secure with a zip tie if needed. To be clear, there is no need to remove the AC lines from the compressor and the entire procedure should be done before attempting to remove the engine. It all become evident once the SC is out of the way...

It's cake

Best,

Phil

Edit: P.S You'll also see your oil cooler lines need to be disconnected. Easiest way is to use a pair of channel locks and simply unscrew the fittings. They're not all that tight. Remember: Righty-tighty, lefty-loosy

[robains]

Added a few more pics to my above link. Cylinder #4 definitely looking ugly.

But look at this gem I found after removing the IC. Can you spot the little problem? No wonder I had some bizarre issues with my car. And no, I didn't do the 550ci injector install.

Do you happen to know where the coolant drain plug is on the block?? Lotus service manual say on right back side -- I can't see one? I see something on the left side of the header (facing the header from the back) below cylinder #4 -- seems to have a brass end with a tube coming out the side, is that the coolant drain plug?

Rob.

[turbophil]

You got it. Coolant drain has a little tube/hose barb. Faces the rear of the car on or about cylinder #4. I recommend using the hose barb they gave ya, as it will help to keep your work environment clean Don't be surprised when not all that much coolant comes out, as there just isn't that much in there... Remember this is just a little 4 banger

Was there any signs or shorting on the exposed #3 injector wire? Regardless, not cool

Keep the pics coming..

Best,

Phil

Originally Posted by robains

Added a few more pics to my above link. Cylinder #4 definitely looking ugly.

But look at this gem I found after removing the IC. Can you spot the little problem? No wonder I had some bizarre issues with my car. And no, I didn't do the 550ci injector install.

Do you happen to know where the coolant drain plug is on the block?? Lotus service manual say on right back side -- I can't see one? I see something on the left side of the header (facing the header from the back) below cylinder #4 -- seems to have a brass end with a tube coming out the side, is that the coolant drain plug?

Rob.

[robains]

Hard to say if there is any arc burn marks on the fuel rail -- thought I saw some, but it could be dirt. It was touching the fuel rail when I removed the plastic shroud. I looks like a ground wire, but it might explain some of the strange grounding issues and other electrical weirdness the car exhibited.

Not saying this is the cause of the engine failure, but it sure isn't a good thing to have an injector short to ground like this.

Thanks on the drain plug, should have the motor out by end of today.

Rob.

[charliex]

you'd likely not see much arcing those are the outputs off the ecu, that is the control signal wire, not the common , what would happpen is that either the injector would switch on and off as it touched , or stay open if the wire was stuck on, which should cause it to run very badly.

[robains]

Might explain why it would sometimes just backfire, shut down, and then restart (in a about a 5 second period say just cruising on the freeway).

Anyway, I ran into another bizarre item on my throttle body -- anyone else have this gunk on their throttle body? It is hard, looks like some type of cement glue -- no idea why this is on my throttle body flap??

Next guess, how do I remove it? Should I just buy a new flap? Beginning to think this isn't even my original throttle body...as in someone changed it out but didn't put back my original????

Rob.

[turbophil]

It looks like FF drilled a hole in the TB plate and then cemented it back shut. They did that before they could get the idle sorted on the DBW EFIs. The idle has since been sorted, so they glued the hole shut. No need to replace as it won't hurt anything. If it really bothers you, you could replace just the throttle plate, but I wouldn't...

Good work, keep 'em coming!

Best,

Phil

Originally Posted by robains

Might explain why it would sometimes just backfire, shut down, and then restart (in a about a 5 second period say just cruising on the freeway).

Anyway, I ran into another bizarre item on my throttle body -- anyone else have this gunk on their throttle body? It is hard, looks like some type of cement glue -- no idea why this is on my throttle body flap??

Next guess, how do I remove it? Should I just buy a new flap? Beginning to think this isn't even my original throttle body...as in someone changed it out but didn't put back my original????

Rob.

[robains]

Phil, interesting ... but my idle was never "sorted" with or without. Also, if they drilled a hole in the flap, why doesn't it show on the other side?

I'll try to order a flap from Toyota or maybe dremel the material off.

See my other note, can't seem to get the SC off because I can't get to a bolt on the intake manifold -- special tool? Some type 12mm box-end wrench with an offset -- something like this?

[Brent Bauman]

They JB welded your butterfly. That won't be pretty when it cracks off, sucks though the sc then the engine. Glad to hear your on you way to recovery.

[robains]

I'm gonna go check with local Toyota for just a replacement butterfly, if I can get just the butterfly, I will, but if not a new DBW TB is $700+ !! I'll try to dremel the stuff off. Why this stuff is on my butterfly is a mystery to me???

Was able to get the Intake off -- made myself a "Custom" tool SC is out -- new short block is arriving today.

Now, what to do with my old short block ... thinking iron sleeves and some serious internals ... slowly build myself a monster motor over the next year.

[turbophil]

Originally Posted by robains

I'm gonna go check with local Toyota for just a replacement butterfly, if I can get just the butterfly, I will, but if not a new DBW TB is $700+ !! I'll try to dremel the stuff off. Why this stuff is on my butterfly is a mystery to me???

Was able to get the Intake off -- made myself a "Custom" tool SC is out -- new short block is arriving today.

Now, what to do with my old short block ... thinking iron sleeves and some serious internals ... slowly build myself a monster motor over the next year.

I wouldn't worry too much about the JB weld... It's actually plenty strong to be a permanent fix on the throttle plate...


You've probably already thought of this, but in case not....If you're worried about it coming off and going into the engine, you could use semi-solid gray RTV in its place to plug the hole. Again, plenty strong and if it ever became mobile, it won't do any harm to the engine or blower.... finally it would be a 1 minute job for someone to braze the hole shut...all of which make more sense than buying a new TB in the event that you can't just buy the throttle plate...

Best,

Phil

[Bavarian Motorist]

Wanted to comment on the "stock is better than not" opinions.


This is 100% true. All I've done is mere exhaust mods to my car, and my car has spent the majority of the summer in the shop. FOR EXHAUST mods. Part of this is that my mechanic is a slow guy and for some odd reason, likes to take care of my car last (he still hasn't touched it in 2 weeks it's been there), but I digress.


If you're going to mod, prepare yourself mentally and financially. Try to do it in the winter too.

[fishguy]

wouldnt that JB weld or whatever that crap is disrupt the smooth flow of air into the motor? dont they polish and port heads for smooth flow to increase power?

unless that jb weld was totally smooth, i would think it goes against what someone is trying to do with modding their car for power.

was that heat shrink on the wire, or electrical tape?

[turbophil]

Originally Posted by fishguy

wouldnt that JB weld or whatever that crap is disrupt the smooth flow of air into the motor? dont they polish and port heads for smooth flow to increase power?

unless that jb weld was totally smooth, i would think it goes against what someone is trying to do with modding their car for power....

You bet! It would create a massive tornado like vortex in the TB robbing fractions of an inch/lb of torque

Cheers,

Phil

[robains]

Now now Phil -- don't think it would affect air flow that much -- the arm holding the butterfly would do more damage to the air flow than the JB weld. Kinda surprised Toyota have an arm design like that, my old TB on my Ford 4.6 DOHC was fully inset so the butterflys were completely flush -- perhaps because this is a one butterfly design?

But to repeat (cause I think Phil missed it), there is NO hole in the butterfly (at least not coming out from the back side). The JB weld may remain stuck, but that isn't something I want to gamble on. It is still a mystery to me why JB weld is there at all (it doesn't seem to have any purpose -- I know it doesn't come from Lotus/Toyota this way -- I'm guessing this isn't my throttle body and there was evidence it had been removed before I got to it.

Looks like heat shrink to me, just not enough of it to cover the wire.