The Lotus Cars Community banner
  • Hi there! Why not register as a user to enjoy all of the benefits of the site? You may register here. When you register, please pick a username that is non-commercial. If you use a name that appears on any search engine commercially, you must pick another name, whether it applies to you or not. Commercial usernames are for supporting vendor use only. If you want to become a supporting vendor and grow your business, please follow this link. Thanks!

Vision Function Supercharger Install Thread

198K views 688 replies 82 participants last post by  Catsailr27 
#1 · (Edited)
Would like to start a nice central discussion thread for people installing these. The instructions included with the kit are pretty straight forward, but this can provide an area for users to discuss tips, tricks, etc.

*** Complete Installation was done by me on an 06 Exige with clam on ****

First off a parts check list

□ Assembled Supercharger
_ - MP62 Supercharger
_ - Drive Snout
_ - Inlet Mount (throttle body side)
_ - Outlet Mount (top side of supercharger)
_ - Outlet Mount to Intercooler Piping Adaptor (L shaped tube attached to outlet)
_ - Bypass Valve (the little "can" mounted on side)
□ Intake Manifold
□ Intercooler
□ Intake Pipe (polished aluminum with MAF sensor mount)
□ Air Filter
□ Pulley
_ - Stage I.....3.2" Part Number: ????
_ - Stage II... 3.0" Part Number: 58-90-06-031
_ - Stage III.. ????
□ Charcoal Canister Relocation Bracket (big black cage)
□ Alternator / Drive Snout Support Bracket (should also have 2 circle metal spacers + hardware)
□ Valve Cover PCV Flanges (2 milled aluminum pieces)
□ PCV Rubber Hose (big thick rubber hose)
□ VVT Milled Aluminum Adaptor
□ Dayco Serpentine Belt
□ Intake Manifold Gasket
□ Throttle Body Gasket
□ Vacuum Adaptors/Fittings/Hoses for Purge Valve Solenoid
□ RC Engineering Injectors
_ - Stage I. 440cc
_ - Stage II 550cc
_ - Stage III ????
□ Injector Wire Harnesses Pigtails (need 4)
□ Silicon Couplings With Hose Clamps For Piping
□ Replacement Oil Dipstick
□ Aluminum Coolant Bungs (2x)
□ Adjustable Supercharger Support Brackets (2x)
□ Various Baggies Of Nuts/Bolts (Ace Hardware usually has a good Metric selection)
□ ECU Shipment Info
□ Printed Instruction Manual (online color copy here)
□ Fuel Pump (Stage 2 & 3 Only)


*** Throttle body in kit picture is not included ***
 

Attachments

See less See more
2
#2 ·
First thing is taking the pressure out of the fuel system. This isn't mentioned in the instructions and by the time I thought of it I already had the intake and throttle body disconnected. So I'm just gonna do it the messy way of popping off the fuel rail with towels underneath (I would recommend removing the intake manifold first if your gonna do it this way).

To get rid of the fuel pressure, remove the 20A fuse from the fuse holder mounted on the firewall. Its the one closest to the driver side, and on the '05's may be rotated differently then the one pictured below. Start the engine and let it run until it dies...dont rev it, just let it idle.
 

Attachments

#3 · (Edited)
In Step 8 on the instructions it shows using the aluminum bungs to cap the cooling hoses under the intake manifold.

Is this required or optional? It looks like it will clear everything, and I'd rather not mess with the cooling system if not required. I dont plan on eliminating the coolant loop through the throttle body, so I dont see where this kit would effect anything with the cooling system.

UPDATE: This step is not required. The hose actually just makes a loop that is ziptied to oil lines below. You can cut the zip tie and reposition this loop if you dont wish to mess with the coolant system.
 
#8 ·
In Step 8 on the instructions it shows using the aluminum bungs to cap the cooling hoses under the intake manifold.

Is this required or optional? It looks like it will clear everything, and I'd rather not mess with the cooling system if not required. I dont plan on eliminating the coolant loop through the throttle body, so I dont see where this kit would effect anything with the cooling system.
I believe its required..Not a big deal, ditch the throttle coolant too..
 
#5 ·
Make it easy on yourself and label EVERYTHING. Put tape on all your connections and make a note on the tape what each one is (injectors, hoses, harnesses, etc). Place all nuts & bolts in baggies and label those baggies. That way you'll know where everything goes and whats SUPPOSED to be left over afterwards :D

You can even make a checklist of everything you disconnect as you do it, so you'll be able to back over the checklist when installing stuff.
 

Attachments

#12 ·
yeah, i put the clam hinge kit on just in case i did the supercharger thing.
stiffer mounts, too.
it may not save a lot tof time for the first installation but it adds up to convenience time after time.
 
#15 ·
It's not required. I did do it though.

If you do decide to do them, pull the top hose first and block off, then the bottom. If you have both disconnected at the same time the fluid comes out REALLY fast. :D

As for the TB, if you live in a warmer climate I would bypass it. If you are way up north you might want to keep it if the car will be left outside in sub freezing temps. The coolant flows through the TB so that the butterfly won't get frozen. Probably not a big deal unless you park it out in the elements.
 
#16 ·
Have a question about the VVT adaptor. I dont understand, exactly what am I aligning here? Is it because I rotated the assembly about 90* from how it came out? Or does that matter? So like what am I trying to accomplish by aligning this?
 

Attachments

#18 · (Edited)
yeah, the instructions on that Vvti are vague at best.
The part of the solenoid in the block can rotate independently of the part with the electrical connector. You need to make sure the part in the block lines up the way it did before you put the adapter on. If you don't line it up the same, you won't have the second cam (ask me how I know) Make your marks, bend the little tabs, rotate the solenoid body, bent the tabs back and install. Don't break it, that's a $250 part.
 
#21 ·
VS Install

I did the installation almost single handed. First off you really need to remove the clam, here you will need someone to hold the other side as you withdraw the clam. I would pay to watch someone do it with the clam on especially if it was the first time.
I had a few minor issues which have been mostly resolved. The most important one was the dipstick tube was way to long which resulted in not getting any reading even though the sump was full. It is important to have the oil level at the correct high mark if you track the car. A replacement was immediately sent but this to was a few centimetres to long also. In the end I shortened the original one and also increased one of the bends by 10* so that the tube did not rub against the fire wall and was closer to the engine.
I also tried to block of any source of cooling leakage to the IC using foam.
I also modified the OEM injector cover to fit this installation as I wanted to keep rain water off them as it rains a lot where I am.
The only outstanding issue is a really annoying stall in very slow moving traffic but a fix is imminent. Once you are on the move it's a delight.
I am overall very pleased with this kit and Jermaine is extremely helpful.
 

Attachments

#22 ·
Good call on the oil dipstick. I just installed the new one yesterday, but have yet to actually put in the supercharger yet so its still accessable. So I can still switch the old back in and see how they compare.

I am kinda suprised there is zero mention of how to do the belt install in the instructions. Guess I'll cross that bridge when I get there.

Also I am doing it with the clam on and it has yet to be a real problem. However I am 6'3" so I have a pretty long reach. Plus I'm on an Exige which I think has a slightly larger engine bay opening. The charcoal canister was kind of pain, but I finally got it in there. I have both rear wheels off and the wheel liners removed. It was a good time to really scrub the wheel liners and use some adhesive on those rubber edge seals that keep trying to peel off the liners.
 
#23 ·
Also what did you do about the solenoid and vacuum lines that were for the little flapper on the stock intake housing? Did you just plug the solenoid harness back in and remove all the vacuum lines?
 
#24 ·
I plugged the vacuum line and deleted the canister.
on the belt routing - I agree. I actually broke my tensioner while installing. I found the best method to install the belt was to put a breaker bar on the tensioner and use ratcheting straps around the rollbar supports to pull the breaker bar. That allows you to use both hands to route the belt and get it on the pulleys.
 
#26 ·
Good idea. With my tilting clam I just put my jack handle under the tensioner and sit on it. With my fat ass I can normally keep it held 100% for a short time while I work on the belt.

I'll try your way next. :)

I can't use the tensioner itself as my wonderful lotus mechanics stripped it out last time they R&R'd my belt. Thank you Star Motor Cars... :wallbang:
 
#27 ·
Why can't the original dipstick be used?

The BWR kit that I installed had 172 pictures for the install. Made things a breeze.

It would save VF some time with calls and questions if they took more pictures just to clarify some questions. Pictures of all the parts including bolts, nuts, etc. would be a plus. It seems as though the kit is fine except for the directions. Are there plans to upgrade the directions? I may be involved in a future install, would like more clarification. Directions shouldn't be a deciding factor to buy one kit over another. Not nitpicking, just trying to help. :up:
 
#28 ·
Yeah, and the tensioner is $150 with the super toyota discount. definitely a junk yard piece to buy.
The VF instructions I had were poor to fair. It wouldn't be a deciding factor for me. But, had I known, I would have offered my tech writing services for an early kit and a discount. oh well.
 
#32 ·
Hmmm.... that hardware looks really familiar;)
 
#30 ·
Dip Stick

The projection of the dip stick using the OEM dip stick tube is 173 mm.
I had to shorten the tube that was originally supplied by 39 mm to get the same projection. Jermaine now supplies a shorter tube which I believe to be the same. I also increased the bend in the tube by roughly 10 degrees so that it ended up against nearer the engine and away from the firewall.
 

Attachments

#31 ·
With regards the engine stall issue I started out with the standard header and exhaust silencer. I have since fitted a 2ublar 8x24 silencer and hope to fit sometime in the near future the Forcefed 4:1. exhaust header. I have had both on the shelf for quite awhile. The engine stall occurs when the air fuel ratio drops down to around 9.5:1.0 when you clutch in to stop. It does not by any means do it everytime but you learn to sense when it going to happen and a blip on the throttle is sufficient. Charlie Wallace says that the air flow past the Air Mass sensor actually reverses direction for a moment which confuses the ECU. As I said Jermaine says an ECU fix is imminent.
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top