Vision Function Supercharger Install Thread

[antinym]

I just reused some of the original bolts from old intake manifold.. they don't all match but it works.

[LordZ]

Originally Posted by stinkyonion

I got those moronic allen wrench bolts out of the intake manifold with locking pliers, then ground the the intake manifold to make clearancefor the VVT thingy. Then, had 20 minutes before ACE hardware closed to buy some hex bolts for the intake manifold. Found there last 5 at $1.10 each, and NO WALLET. I dug up enough prehistoric change with hair and coke syrup and crumbs stuck to it so they gave them to me anyway (short like 50 cents). Now I get to put it all back together...

lol, I picked up some studs from Phil for the manifold. Worked out great.

Originally Posted by fpitas

Mine idles about there, too. I also guessed that's part of the fix for the stalling.

1.1k would probably be just about right. That is where the idle is when the ac/fan is on and I haven't had a problem with it jumping anywhere with ac on.

[stinkyonion]

Alright. Its after midnight and Im stuck. I need to solder the injectors but cant figure out how to route the conduit for them which will affect how much wire I attach with the injectors. I assume that conduit goes from the ecu area to across top of intake manifold branches. Then it either goes across top of passenger side of intake manifold or goes next to the engine under the wing of the passenger side of the intake manifold medial to the VVT thingy. From there it goes just in front of where the mp62 body abuts the alternator inside the PCV pipe loop (as pictured in Vivas picture on page 2 of this thread). My conduit is short it seems. I cant move it much. Right now goes across the top of the intake manifold. Is this right?
("front" means towards front of car, "medial" means closer to center of car)

Then, the supplied PCV pipe im pretty sure is too short by a couple inches. It just barely reaches between the two ports. Anyone else have to splice it longer ? Then I could put it under the dipstick instead of on top (which would give me a more vertical dipstick instead of the dipstick being forced into the firewall), and it shouldnt require ridiculous strength to get it to connect between the two ports.

Finally, I ground 2mm off the intake manifold, bolted in on, and it is still touching the VVT thingy. Im chicken to grind off any more as when I tapped on the ground area with a screw driver there was a clear high pitch like it is much thinner than surrounding areas. I bet the manifold is maybe only 3 or 3.5mm thick. I cant pass a piece of paper between the VVT and the manifold, but the VVT doesnt seem to be deformed at all. I guess if I could stomach removing the manifold for a forth time I would take a mm off of the corner of the VVT thingy.

[choi0706]

I've made a few suggestions there should be a 90deg elbow in that hose.. not only would it make it longer , it would help out alot with the angle.. I tried searching a few local home improvement stores and did not find any brass elbows that size..

[choi0706]

you need to make the plugs LONG..

[Westrock]

As far injector wiring, I did not have to deal with that because my kit came with plug and play injector harnesses (as seen in the photo on the first thread). I've attached some pictures from different angles showing how I routed cables and even that PCV. The PCV hose I got was very long and I ended up cutting off probably a good 12".

[Westrock]

I was able to reuse the injector cover. I trimmed the outside edge to clear the new manifold, as well as notching the throttle body side so that the hose clamps fit good.

I used a 1/2" stainless steel spacer and got 1" bolts.

[antinym]

I routed my wires under the intake manifold. Looks way cleaner. You'll have to take off your intake manifold, though. Too bad I don't have pictures, but I think that's how the VF guys did it too. I'll look for one of their pics.

[antinym]

Well, I found the pics. check page 34 and 36 of the instruction manual. You'll see they have the the wires coming from under the fuel rail. I don't think their room under the fuel rail so I suspect they have it under the manifold.

[LordZ]

I can take some pics when I get home. Mine is routed under the intake manifold as well. Very clean.

Hope these help;

[sleepe]

Is the vf oil dipstick as accurate as oem?

-Robert

[stinkyonion]

Well, clearly you have to put the dipstick in your old tube after you remove it and measure how far the dipstick sticks out the bottom (6 inches in my case). Then you put the dipstick in the new Vision Function tube and measure how far it sticks out the bottom (7 inches in my case). Now I know the oil must be one inch higher than the marks on the dipstick. Others had different measurements, and Im sure I could probably mail mine back to Jermaine for a more correct length one but dont want to wait 2 weeks for it. Maybe I will pound new marks on the dipstick with a nail punch.

[Jermaine@VF]

Originally Posted by stinkyonion

Well, clearly you have to put the dipstick in your old tube after you remove it and measure how far the dipstick sticks out the bottom (6 inches in my case). Then you put the dipstick in the new Vision Function tube and measure how far it sticks out the bottom (7 inches in my case). Now I know the oil must be one inch higher than the marks on the dipstick. Others had different measurements, and Im sure I could probably mail mine back to Jermaine for a more correct length one but dont want to wait 2 weeks for it. Maybe I will pound new marks on the dipstick with a nail punch.

Take a pic of your dipstick with our tube.

Thanks,

Jermaine~

[xziteme]

LordZ: re-routing the wires under the intake manifold looks very clean.

I wished they re-routed mine when my VF was installed. I just trimmed my injector cover to keep that OEM look.



However, the heat-shielding covering the pre & post intercooler pipes screams aftermarket.
It prolly doesn't even significantly lower the intake temps...but, it doesn't hurt it also.

[stinkyonion]

Another 10 hours today on the car (I am a complete car mechanic newb, only changed the oil before). Finished the VF2 install except for the charcoal canister delete, going to look that thread up next. Also, have to drill a hole through the roll bar support plate for the intake pipe (this step not in the instructions, hope the bolt is in the kit). Will try tomorrow to get Jermaine a picture of the dipstick, but im not sure I can get it out without removing the supercharger (which Im not going to do until something breaks). Still wish the PCV pipe was about 3 inches longer. Bought a heat gun, man does it make the heat shrink work well compared to matches and minitorch! Everything looks OEM.

Had to put the pulley on with the writing facing center of car to get the belt to line up.

Belt installed easily with the jack handle on a breaker bar to increase leverage on the tensioner. Belt fit perfectly, but then realized later it was the original BWR SC belt (still new). Left it on, but am curious if it is the exact same size as the VF belt.

Also have to finish clam hinge install and put the cockpit back together tomorrow. Then comes ingnition with fire extinguisher handy...

Have had to do a lot of driving:
5 trips to Sears (ball end allen wrenches, T handle allen wrenches, pick tools, miniature wrench set (to turn 6mm allen wrench nub i put into VF bolts on manifold), 12" socket extenders, socket swivels, socket adapters)
6 trips to autozone (red loctite, blue loctite, heat resistant loctite, longer coolant hose for throttle body, lock washer I lost, closed end 13mm wrench for stock intake manifold bolts, tried to buy longer PCV pipe)
1 trip to Fries (heat gun)
1 trip to Home Depot (tried to buy better manifold bolts but didnt have stainless metric)
1 trip to Ace Hardware (bought stainless metric intake manifold bolts but they were a little loose in the hole so didnt use)
2 trips to NAPA Auto Parts (spark plugs, tried to buy longer PCV pipe)
1 trip to CarQuest (tried to buy longer PCV pipe)
2 trips to FVMC (bought and picked up the orange clips near top of gas pump the popped behind gas tank and could not be retrieved)

Total install time so far (not including driving/shopping 7 hours, and lotustalk research 3 hours) about 30 hours for VF install, HID lamps, Manly engine mounts, Von Hep exhaust, and clam hinge with probably 5 hours left if all goes well. Kind of rotated between them so cant say exactly how long each takes. Thats a grand total of 45 hours away from the family that was surprisingly tolerated by the wife.

Next time would likely have professionaly installed, but I have learned gobs about the car.

[stinkyonion]

OK. Discovered can still remove dipstick tube with SC in place by jacking car and manipulating from below. Remeasured, apparently wasnt fully seating the dipstick on the old tube, it projects 6 7/8" from stock dipstick tube, and 7 1/8 from new tube, difference of only 0.25 inch, no big deal. (see pictures 1 and 2)

Then, was unable to do a charcoal cannister delete because the thread sucks with no clear instructions and no consensus on best method, so decided to keep the cannister. Kit comes with bolt for bracket, but when installed as shown in manual the bolt cannot be used so just stuck a ziptie to hold down the cannister (seems okay). (see photo 3)

Finally, and the thing that has me confused, is the stock airbox has a gizmo on the bottom left of photo that I think is the solenoid others have referred to. I have no idea what it does. Does this get reinstalled in the car without the airbox? Where? Or what do I do with the electrical connector if it doesnt ?

[Jermaine@VF]

The solenoid does not need to be connected. It is for the factory air box flapper which is no longer needed.

The carbon canister doesn't need the rod to keep the canister in place as the bottom of the canister is sandwiched between to the frame rail and the bracket.

Oil Dipstick.. You will have a replacement on Tuesday.

Thanks,

Jermaine~

[Westrock]

For the intake bypass solenoid I just plugged in the harness to the solenoid and unplugged all the wires. You can see it on the first picture on post 86. Its at the front of picture attached to the bracket for the engine coolant.

The charcoal canister can be quite a pain cause its a tight fit....dont give up though, you can get that son of gun in there. I used one of the bolts from the AC line brackets thats right there.

[sleepe]

Was curious...Is the vf2 filter a reusable K&N (dry or oiled element)?

-Robert Horsey

p.s. Jermaine, I'm still waiting for that dyno chart.

[stinkyonion]

Any pictures of securing fuseboxes onto firewall would be helpful, still not sure how best to do this, or even how to tolerably do this.

And if anyone did the charcoal box delete and can photo the resister installs, parts remaining, and the parts discarded that would be cool. The thread on this kind of sucks.