Blackwatch XP "FrankenLotus" Build-up i.e. 370HP 1595lb Beastie

[fzust]

What has 430HP/290lb-ft of torque but only weighs 1630lbs? It would be the Blackwatch XP "FrankenLotus". This is a car I started building with Robert's help a couple of years ago to compete in SCCA Solo in the XP or "Prepared Class X" After some discussion with a few folks that suggested that it would be good for the community to talk about how you get to this extreme level of prep from a stock lotus. I've attached a few starter pics and then based on interest/questions will describe the build up in detail.

More to follow:

[exarkun1178]

[Patricko]

Originally Posted by fzust

What has 370HP/270lb-ft of torque but only weighs 1595lbs? "FrankenLotus".

Frank is amazing

[Conan]

awwwe come on! you skipped over the how you made the fender flares! Any pics of how you did that?

in any case

[fzust]

Originally Posted by Conan

awwwe come on! you skipped over the how you made the fender flares! Any pics of how you did that?

in any case

No, I suck. I'll explain though. Ted, the guru, bodyman in the pic there took some foam similar to the kind used for plants. You press it and it holds the shape of your impression. He glued 2" thick sheets of it to the fenders until he had a big block on each corner. Then by hand he shaped it. Then he bondoed it to give it strength. Next he wet-laid CF (4 layers)to the shape(with mold release on it). Next rip all of that off and trim the CF fenders, cut out the extra clam underneath to save weight, and bond to the body using an industrial adhesive. Then hours of sanding, filling, shaping etc etc etc.

Total about 160hours! Still not done, it needs more primer, and paint!

[perryeyges]

I like your door idea better than mine. I will power up the scroll saw
Excellent outside of the box thinking. Why do you need any part of the inner 1/2 of the door anyway? Excellent...

[fzust]

Originally Posted by perryeyges

I like your door idea better than mine. I will power up the scroll saw
Excellent outside of the box thinking. Why do you need any part of the inner 1/2 of the door anyway? Excellent...

Perry, You can't see it in these pics, but the opener is very elegant. You just take the lock button and run a thin rod down to the opener. Works great!

[fzust]

My new favorite feature is the super-duper quick removeable clam. It has the roll-bar cover integrated into the clam now. Here's how it works:

1. Remove the top - Now held in place by 2 rubber bands.
2. Remove the trunklid - This is held in place by 2 hood pins.
3. Lift.

Notice the trunk is removed for weight savings.

<object width="425" height="350"> <param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/45exMvcd0dg"> </param> <embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/45exMvcd0dg" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" width="425" height="350"> </embed> </object>

[perryeyges]

Originally Posted by fzust

Perry, You can't see it in these pics, but the opener is very elegant. You just take the lock button and run a thin rod down to the opener. Works great!

Can you send a picture. Don't understand...DUH...

[perryeyges]

Originally Posted by fzust

My new favorite feature is the super-duper quick removeable clam. It has the roll-bar cover integrated into the clam now. Here's how it works:

1. Remove the top - Now held in place by 2 rubber bands.
2. Remove the trunklid - This is held in place by 2 hood pins.
3. Lift.

Notice the trunk is removed for weight savings.

<object width="425" height="350"> <param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/45exMvcd0dg"> </param> <embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/45exMvcd0dg" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" width="425" height="350"> </embed> </object>

I was doing the same sort of thing when the car was being worked on. I need to come up with a quick disconnect retention system. I decided to just go your way and not with the hinged clam.. Turbophil will not have any problem selling those kits though(GREAT WORK!)

[fzust]

Originally Posted by perryeyges

I was doing the same sort of thing when the car was being worked on. I need to come up with a quick disconnect retention system. I decided to just go your way and not with the hinged clam.. Turbophil will not have any problem selling those kits though(GREAT WORK!)

Agreed! The hinged clam will be awesome for the streetcar. My solution works great if you don't have a trunk and relocate your accusump and vacuum canister to where the fuel tank used to be.

Fuel tank is now 3.25 gallons on the right side of the car.... Huge weight savings. Original tank was 25lbs. New tank is 5 lbs. I had to run the tank full to keep from having fuel starvation. 10 gallons at 6lbs/gallon = 60lbs vs. ~20lbs. Total savings of 60 lbs!

[sfelise]

Originally Posted by fzust

No, I suck. I'll explain though. Ted, the guru, bodyman in the pic there took some foam similar to the kind used for plants. You press it and it holds the shape of your impression. He glued 2" thick sheets of it to the fenders until he had a big block on each corner. Then by hand he shaped it. Then he bondoed it to give it strength. Next he wet-laid CF (4 layers)to the shape(with mold release on it). Next rip all of that off and trim the CF fenders, cut out the extra clam underneath to save weight, and bond to the body using an industrial adhesive. Then hours of sanding, filling, shaping etc etc etc.

Total about 160hours! Still not done, it needs more primer, and paint!

Is this something that once finished a mold can be taken of and flares reproduced much more easily?

[fzust]

Originally Posted by sfelise

Is this something that once finished a mold can be taken of and flares reproduced much more easily?

We thought about it, but not cheaply. We may investigate again if demand warrants it. As I found out first hand, the flares cost a bunch and then the body-work to integrate is time consuming and costly.

[perryeyges]

Originally Posted by fzust

Agreed! The hinged clam will be awesome for the streetcar. My solution works great if you don't have a trunk and relocate your accusump and vacuum canister to where the fuel tank used to be.

Fuel tank is now 3.25 gallons on the right side of the car.... Huge weight savings. Original tank was 25lbs. New tank is 5 lbs. I had to run the tank full to keep from having fuel starvation. 10 gallons at 6lbs/gallon = 60lbs vs. ~20lbs. Total savings of 60 lbs!

I may follow your lead on this one. Where did you get the tank and how much$$ was it??? Is is mounted in the same location but just the RH 1/3?
I guess I could just pull out the stock tank and have it sectioned in 1/2...Just a bit more fuel would be nice for track days and some driving here and there.

[fzust]

Originally Posted by perryeyges

I may follow your lead on this one. Where did you get the tank and how much$$ was it??? Is is mounted in the same location but just the RH 1/3?
I guess I could just pull out the stock tank and have it sectioned in 1/2...Just a bit more fuel would be nice for track days and some driving here and there.

I had it fabricated, which is cheaper than you might think. The stock tank is steel, you could go aluminum to save weight. Depends on the safety regs you need to meet. 5 gallons on the right would be really good for track days.

[SweetDaddyD]

You are one crazy mo fo!

[LordZ]

Originally Posted by fzust

1. Remove the top - Now held in place by 2 rubber bands.

More info on rubber bands please. Still looking at options for quick roof removal.

[perryeyges]

Originally Posted by fzust

I had it fabricated, which is cheaper than you might think. The stock tank is steel, you could go aluminum to save weight. Depends on the safety regs you need to meet. 5 gallons on the right would be really good for track days.

Yeah, I think aluminum and on the RH half would be good. Isn't the fuel level sender on the LH side? I guess you can just refit it over. Some baffling(./ \.) with small holes would be nice for starvation issues.

[fzust]

Here is the pic of the door latch opener. It is so stupid-simple, I can't imagine doing it any other way.

[andrewgotanelise]

good work!