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Old 11-24-2008, 04:47 PM   #1 (permalink)
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It fits!!!!

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Clearance at the rear opening is 1 1/2" on each side. Inside the trailer, clearance is about 6" per side. The winch has a remote control with a 35' cord, which makes loading and unloading very easy.

Tie down access for the rear wheels and right front wheel is easy, but I'm trying to figure out how to tie down the left front wheel. The owner's manual says that only the wheels can be used for tying down; using any other part of the car can damage it.

There are a couple of disadvantages of a narrow trailer that I hadn't foreseen. I was amazed to find that the 2-Eleven has steering lock. Because there is no easy way to get in or put of the car in the trailer, the ignition switch must be left in position I the entire time the car is in the trailer. It also means that the parking brake must be off and the gearbox in neutral. My options seem to be, live with it or install a short catwalk along one side. Suggestions?

Last edited by Noah Vail : 11-25-2008 at 01:05 AM. Reason: typo
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Old 11-24-2008, 05:07 PM   #2 (permalink)
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what about installing a door on that side?
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Old 11-24-2008, 05:29 PM   #3 (permalink)
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I've thought about it but I imagine that it would be pricey if done professionally, and would look bad and possibly leak if done non-professionally. Although dirty at the moment, it's a nice looking, all aluminum trailer and I 'd rather not mess it up.
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Old 11-24-2008, 05:43 PM   #4 (permalink)
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If you can't be in the car to turn the steering wheel, I assume you must be lining it up straight before you winch it in. If that works, then I don't know why it would make any difference for the steering to be locked.

How far a climb would it be from the passenger side cockpit to the side door of the trailer? I'm wondering if a grab bar near that peg rack thingy might allow you to swing yourself in/out of the cockpit to/from that door without putting much of your weight on the fender?

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Old 11-24-2008, 05:50 PM   #5 (permalink)
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I've thought about it but I imagine that it would be pricey if done professionally, and would look bad and possibly leak if done non-professionally. Although dirty at the moment, it's a nice looking, all aluminum trailer and I 'd rather not mess it up.
How about selling/trading it to get a different trailer.
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Old 11-24-2008, 05:53 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Why not just leave the key in it?
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Old 11-24-2008, 05:57 PM   #7 (permalink)
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My gosh...that looks sooooo close.
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Old 11-24-2008, 06:07 PM   #8 (permalink)
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not close... snug
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Old 11-24-2008, 06:18 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Re: not leaving it in gear, that's a good thing. From what racers have told me. . . you should always keep your car out of gear when trailering because, the slight rocking through the drivetrain will cause wear in the cylinders ,since no oil is being pumped.
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Old 11-24-2008, 06:30 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Re: not leaving it in gear, that's a good thing. From what racers have told me. . . you should always keep your car out of gear when trailering because, the slight rocking through the drivetrain will cause wear in the cylinders ,since no oil is being pumped.
old wives tale
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Old 11-24-2008, 06:31 PM   #11 (permalink)
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do you use the e-track to tie the car down? if so, can you show a pic or describe it? i am looking at a trailer which has recessed e-track, however it is on 36" centers, so not under the wheels. i'm not sure that's a benefit at all.
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Old 11-24-2008, 06:53 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Please feel free to if the following is profoundly stupid, but could you install metal framework front wheel ramps tall enough at the front for you to crawl under to get to the left front and still provide enough support for both front tie-downs? Or per haps, approach the problem from underneath? Access holes in the floor are easier to deal with - say an opening with a structral attachment point across the opening.
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Old 11-24-2008, 07:02 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Norm,

That trailer is not wide enough, imho. You've got the room for storage and the towing capacity, just get a 20 footer and be done with it....then you could drive it up or winch it up. Btw. get a 'wireless' remote control.

Also, get rid of that quiet muffler.

Look forward to seeing you on the 4th.
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Old 11-24-2008, 07:09 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Ok, that does it - I want to be you guys with these kinds of problems (whether to winch up or drive up!) Cool toys!
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Old 11-24-2008, 08:43 PM   #15 (permalink)
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i have a 28footer for sale, low car friendly
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Old 11-24-2008, 11:14 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Please feel free to if the following is profoundly stupid, but could you install metal framework front wheel ramps tall enough at the front for you to crawl under to get to the left front and still provide enough support for both front tie-downs?
yup, that is commonly done. EDIT: in fact, here's a few examples of ones you can buy, and one of the photos answers the e-track question!
BSE TrailerWorks - Race Car Loading Ramps and Race Trailer Customizing & Repair

Quote:
Or per haps, approach the problem from underneath? Access holes in the floor are easier to deal with - say an opening with a structral attachment point across the opening.
interesting idea ... very easy to do as well. just make a lift out trap door.

Last edited by road racer : 11-24-2008 at 11:27 PM.
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Old 11-25-2008, 12:18 AM   #17 (permalink)
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... just get a 20 footer and be done with it.
Jack,

Blasphemy from a Co-Saint?

I’m going with the Lotus philosophy: smaller and lighter is better than bigger and heavier. Besides, I’m planning to trailercross it.
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Old 11-25-2008, 12:35 AM   #18 (permalink)
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Also, get rid of that quiet muffler.
Check the photo again.

Jim told me that the stock muffler doesn't meet Laguna Seca's noise limit anyway, so there was no reason to stick with the ripped canvas scream of the Singer sewing machine. I ordered the Larini from Sector 111 on Thursday and it arrived Friday. Via Fedex Ground! Thank you, Shinoo. Sector 111 customer service is A+. Nice work by Fedex, too.

And a big thanks to buddies, David Christian and Martin, who installed it while I supervised (AKA held the light).
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Old 11-25-2008, 12:38 AM   #19 (permalink)
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If you can't be in the car to turn the steering wheel, I assume you must be lining it up straight before you winch it in. If that works, then I don't know why it would make any difference for the steering to be locked.
The remote control for the winch allows me to walk alongside the car and make minor steering corrections as it goes up the ramp.
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Old 11-25-2008, 12:44 AM   #20 (permalink)
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How about selling/trading it to get a different trailer.
I prefer the engineering challenge. There's a simple, elegant solution out there somewhere and I'm just the guy to trip over it.
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