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Old 04-07-2009, 07:29 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Taking my Exige S off the road

Mods - love LT but figuring out which section to post in can be overwhelming, so please move as you see fit.

Enjoying my Exige on the track but just no love for it on the road, so just bought a trailer, dropping the registration and insurance.

Given the economy and since this is my backup track car I don't want to get too carried away, so resisting temptation.

Not much done to date: Larini exhaust, S111 engine mounts, 6-pt Schroth, RT brace. Basics such as Pagids, Motul and track alignment. Rubber from r888 to R6 or hopefully full slicks now that I have the brace.

Short term wishlist: Baffled oil pan (Moroso?) and/or Accusump,would love the tighter steering ratio rod, Ohlins.

Longer term wishlist: CharlieX tune, and whatever cooling and braking mods may be required from the increase in power.

So outside of the basics above:

Safety: a full cage is always appealing.

Weight: outside of AC, sound system, airbags, what else is obvious and easy? How heavy is the windshield and engine separator glass compared to lexan?

Thanks in advance, this is the first time I strip a street car so all links, thoughts and advise are very welcome!!
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Old 04-07-2009, 07:36 PM   #2 (permalink)
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I'd do one of these
Quote:
Originally Posted by RQ_GT3 View Post
Baffled oil pan (Moroso?) and/or Accusump,
before I did this
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Originally Posted by RQ_GT3 View Post
hopefully full slicks
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Originally Posted by RQ_GT3 View Post
Weight: outside of AC, sound system, airbags, what else is obvious and easy? How heavy is the windshield and engine separator glass compared to lexan?
Take a look at Perry's rip down thread to get some ideas for weight reduction. http://www.lotustalk.com/forums/f3/s...e-me-do-59435/ Not all of it is obvious or easy but it's a good place to get ideas/info/a start.
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Old 04-07-2009, 07:38 PM   #3 (permalink)
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I'd do one of these before I did this

And don't forget to upgrade the rear toe links (if you haven't already done so)!

EDIT: Oh, yeah... replace the wheel bolts with proper studs and nuts...
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Old 04-07-2009, 08:23 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Good advice on the oil issue, and interesting link, thanks.

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And don't forget to upgrade the rear toe links (if you haven't already done so)!

EDIT: Oh, yeah... replace the wheel bolts with proper studs and nuts...
Is the S111's RTDBrace enough? If so done, else please point me inthe right direction.

Studs - yes, want them but any concerns at all about them (yes I should do a search). Very best choice, and source?
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Old 04-07-2009, 08:28 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Good advice on the oil issue, and interesting link, thanks.



Is the S111's RTDBrace enough? If so done, else please point me inthe right direction.

Studs - yes, want them but any concerns at all about them (yes I should do a search). Very best choice, and source?
Get the BWR drop forged studs. Best choice for sure and its comes with what you need so no guessing.
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Old 04-07-2009, 08:40 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Get the BWR drop forged studs. Best choice for sure and its comes with what you need so no guessing.
Great, will order those tomorrow.

RTDbrace still good enough?
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Old 04-07-2009, 09:02 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Great, will order those tomorrow.

RTDbrace still good enough?
Yes, as far as I know. It's always a good area to inspect before a track day (torques, heim joint wear, etc.)
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Old 04-09-2009, 10:05 AM   #8 (permalink)
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On the BWR studs, am I better of with the standard ones or the longer ones? I'm running stock wheels, at least for now.
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Old 04-09-2009, 10:14 AM   #9 (permalink)
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I've been thinking of doing the exact same thing. The only reason I take mine out on the road, is just to drive around and go nowhere in particular. What's the use ? I'd rather track it a couple times a month and drive it the way it was built to be driven.
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Old 04-09-2009, 10:20 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Rear glass is about 3 1/2 pounds. Replacement carbon fiber panel is about one pound:

Group Buy - Really Light Stuff CF Exige Rear Window
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Old 04-13-2009, 06:30 PM   #11 (permalink)
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On the BWR studs, am I better of with the standard ones or the longer ones? I'm running stock wheels, at least for now.
Any comments on this? Thanks!
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Old 04-13-2009, 07:23 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Any comments on this? Thanks!
I believe the longer studs are only necessary if you're using wheel spacers...
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Old 04-13-2009, 08:25 PM   #13 (permalink)
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I would caution you regarding dropping the insurance on the vehicle. Although insurance is generally worthless if a mishap occurs on the track, there is a lot of opportunity for your car to get damaged off the track.

Example 1: you are trailering your car and either a) you cause an accident that damages your trailered Exige, b) you have a trailer mishap that damages your Exige, or c) and uninsured motorist causes an accident that damages your Exige. In either of these cases you are likely screwed. Your auto policy (on the tow car) likely does not cover the car being towed.

Example 2: your Exige is stolen from your house. Your home policy likely does not cover the stolen car.

Check these out with your insurance agent. As an alternative, you may want to consider lowering the liability coverage as much as possible and increasing your deductible to a high amount.
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Old 04-14-2009, 10:37 AM   #14 (permalink)
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I believe the longer studs are only necessary if you're using wheel spacers...
Thanks. Since wheels can change over time, any downside to just getting the longer ones (other than maybe a bit of an odd look)?
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Old 04-14-2009, 10:42 AM   #15 (permalink)
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I would caution you regarding dropping the insurance on the vehicle. Although insurance is generally worthless if a mishap occurs on the track, there is a lot of opportunity for your car to get damaged off the track.
Good points, thanks.

I was thinking about going with something along the lines of a storage / transit / paddock policy - essentially no liability and covers the car only when its not moving under its own power. I spoke to the folks at Heacock Classic about my Radical and they have pretty reasonable rates for this requirement.
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Old 04-14-2009, 11:16 AM   #16 (permalink)
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Thanks. Since wheels can change over time, any downside to just getting the longer ones (other than maybe a bit of an odd look)?
It takes longer to remove and install the wheels?

EDIT: There's about 8 more threads on the longer studs, so 8 x 4 x 4 x 2 (on and off) is 256 extra full turns of the lug nuts!
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Old 04-14-2009, 07:45 PM   #17 (permalink)
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so 8 x 4 x 4 x 2 (on and off) is 256 extra full turns of the lug nuts!
For some reason that just cracks me up!!

But yes seems like a lot of wasted motion.

BTW how hard is it to remove them if one strips or breaks? New hub or recoverable?
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Old 04-14-2009, 08:39 PM   #18 (permalink)
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How much extra weight for the longer studs ???

I would put the suspension very near the top of your mods list.
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Old 04-15-2009, 11:18 AM   #19 (permalink)
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Outside of the rear brace (done) and Ohlins (will do soon), anything else that should be considered for the suspension?
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Old 04-16-2009, 08:50 AM   #20 (permalink)
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New steering arms or milling of your OE arms to allow for greater negative camber.
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