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Specific tool socket for Renault Tranny

2K views 15 replies 7 participants last post by  Esprit1 
#1 ·
Gents,

I want to drain my transmission and replace the fluid. I have a 97 V8 and I want the specific socket to tighten/loosen the drain plug. I don't want to take a socket and force things, or take metal out. I would love to go somewhere on the internet and buy a socket that matches the precise dimensions on the drain plug. Can someone help me identify the socket.

I will pay way more than I ought to just to have the correct socket. I had one once before but it is long gone.

Thanks in advance and I want everyone to know that I used the search to find it but I wasn't able to.

Onwards,
Lox
 
#6 ·
Snap On PP 412. It is a 3/8 drive by 3/8 female square socket. You have to hammer it on and use a breaker bar. Sometimes they are REALLY in there TIGHT! Remove the level plug (the one on the side) FIRST! If you can't get that one loose DO NOT remove the drain plug. If you do you will have a transmission that is empty and you cannot put oil in. Best to take the floor out of the boot to do this, it makes access MUCH easier. If you install the plugs with teflon tape you don't have to tighten them so much to keep them from leaking and it makes removal easier. The preferred fluid is Redline MT 90 about 3 1/2 quarts. Since you have the '97 check the translator for any worn or loose parts.
David Teitelbaum
 
#8 ·
I strongly recommend you buy a GOOD socket. If the plugs are in there really tight you will break an inferior socket. It will take some abuse first hammering it onto the plug and then a LOT of torque to get the plug loose. There IS a difference between a $7 socket and a $30 socket.
David Teitelbaum
 
#9 · (Edited)
There IS a difference between a $7 socket and a $30 socket.
David Teitelbaum
Yeah, $23. :wink2: :laugh2:


I've helped several owners drain & fill Renault transmissions and don't recall any of them being as tight as David said. (But, removing the fill plug first is ALWAYS a good step!) :surprise:

Oh Yeah, I use a penetrate and a small breaker bar to begin loosening.





If you get stuck without a proper square socket, a Gator Grip socket works too (though the darn chassis gets in the way a little bit :mad: )

Gator Grip Universal Socket Standard 19 Mm Clamshell
By: Endeavor Tool Company Llc
Walmart #: 001196799




(As far a special Lotus tools go, I like the Gator Grip almost as much as my set of Wobble Extensions. Need to update the TOOLS THAT SAVED THE DAY topic)


Lastly: HI LOX! Glad to see you still have your V8.
 
#10 ·
I was just starting this exercise and was getting a bit frustrated and I stopped short of destroying the plug. I was changing all oils to Mobil One synthetics. I have used several brands of synthetic but prefer Mobil one. The gear oil is low sulphur and low foaming and is a proven winner. OEM in Mercedes , BMW and other high-quality Marks. JMO, but there is data out there to support it. Mark
 
#12 · (Edited)
The oil used in the transaxle must have a combination of just the right qualities. Slippery but not too slippery. Plays well with brass/bronze. Lets the syncros slip just the right amount. Consistent over a wide temperature range. Since TFX is NLA we find the MT-90 to be a good substitute. Let us know how you like the Mobil 1. Gives us more choices if it works. I have had some cars where the plug was VERY tight and someone used a pipe wrench or vise grip and mucked up the plug badly. The only way it was ever coming loose was to hammer the socket on, reforming the head of the plug, and then using a breaker bar and cheater pipe. I think the Gator Grip is alright but I would never pull very hard on one.
David Teitelbaum
 
#14 ·
There was an interesting 75w 90 gear oil comparison test done for amsoil which had every major brand. The Red line brand did well but seemed to be harder on copper and brass tests. It also seemed to foam a bit. Amsoil, Mobil one and Castrol Sync did very well. Some oils were better at some tests than others. I am no engineer but I do believe in their products. Car shifts fine now. I just want to know where I am with all fluids. Will let you know what if any difference I notice.
Thanks Mark
 
#13 ·
I've used Mobil 1 75W-90 since 2002. It's GL5, not great for brass, but then I've also removed and opened my UN1 several times to peak, once to reseal, and once to install the Quaife LSD. My brass syncros looked fine, no corrosion pitting.

I like the shifting feel of the Mobil 1, and it works great with the Quaife LSD. I do feel that my esprit SE shifts better than any 89-97 Esprit that I have driven... The 2003 and the 99 Sport 350, with the revised shift linkage, that I drove did shift pretty nice.
 
#15 ·
I have been reading up on GL-4 versus GL-5 and wow lots to learn. It does appear that the MT-90 GL4 Redline seems to be an awesome oil. Appearantly, the GL-5 rating oils will possibly stick to the syncro's and peel away a few microns of brass etc.?? By the time I change my trans fluid I think I will have my shelves stocked up with every kind of gear lube available.

David and Travis Thanks for the info!
 
#16 ·
Finally, trans oil changed. The square 10 mm socket is the only way to go.Tried 8 point socket and also the Gator Grip but ultimately when the square drive socket arrived Friday it went well once I pounder the socket on my less than perfectly square plug. Went with Mobil One Syn. And found a inexpensive fluid transfer pump $5.99 at Au to zone screwed on top of the quart containers with hose and a little pump. REALLY was convenient.Looking forward to taking the beast out. Feeling good.
Mark
 
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