Elan Frame Reinforcement

[jkolb]

I am going to be taking the body off my 64 Elan and want to reinforce the frame in the same manner that the 26r frame was reinforced. Can anyone point me to a description and/or photos of the areas that require reinforcement. I have an original rust free frame with no evident cracks, although I will check it over in great detail when the body is off.

Thanx

Jerry

[kestrel74]

TIM will know !!

[TimMullen]

Actually I don't remember all the reinforcements.

I know that the front suspension towers usually need reinforcing, several gussets are added at locations where things meet at right angles, and the lower locating rod mounting point for the differential usually get reinforced.

Tony Thomson in the UK sells (or at least they used to) factory frame that has been reinforced. I'd copy all the "fixes" that they do, and that should cover them all.

Actually their frame is a good idea - it's a factory frame that is all jigged up and welded up just right. I think they heat cycle it to relieve any stresses caused by the welding. Along that line, welding up the Elan frame is not an easy thing to do - it is very thin metal and can easily be warped when welding.

In may case, my original frame was just fine (not even rusty in the usual places) so I abandoned any thoughts of replacing or modifying the frame - and it saved me the trouble of removing the body from the frame.

[mopho]

LotusElan.net: Frame and Chassis

[tvacc]

Originally Posted by TimMullen

Actually I don't remember all the reinforcements.

I know that the front suspension towers usually need reinforcing, several gussets are added at locations where things meet at right angles, and the lower locating rod mounting point for the differential usually get reinforced.

Tony Thomson in the UK sells (or at least they used to) factory frame that has been reinforced. I'd copy all the "fixes" that they do, and that should cover them all.

Actually their frame is a good idea - it's a factory frame that is all jigged up and welded up just right. I think they heat cycle it to relieve any stresses caused by the welding. Along that line, welding up the Elan frame is not an easy thing to do - it is very thin metal and can easily be warped when welding.

In may case, my original frame was just fine (not even rusty in the usual places) so I abandoned any thoughts of replacing or modifying the frame - and it saved me the trouble of removing the body from the frame.

I got really paranoid that I did not know that answer and that Tim would. I like to tell people that if Tim and I dont know "it" when it comes to Elans.......well...then it is not worth knowing.

I feel better that he did not know as well.

Saying that...to even see a 26R let alone know it well enough to know what you are asking is asking a lot. There are not that many of them. I worked on one extensively when I was in College. A guy named Harold asked me to help him. He had an ex-Jackie Oliver car. I fogot the number. For may years I had the light hardtop...windows...side top fiberglass....and many other parts. He gave them to me for helping him. I could have bought the car in 1982 for 5K. Still kicking myself....

[elancoupe]

I have the TTR chassis in my car. I took some detailed photos of it before building it up, and could email you copies, if you like.

[cabc26b]

I have two race frames - one period and one a combo of the 26R ( akaTTR) mods plus a few extras that I added for insurance - BTW the 26R replica frames are actually Supplied by miles wilkens in the UK -

Other notes for the pictures - I extended the enclosures on the upper and lower flanges all the way, the Miles frames do not. I think I used a heavier GA metal than they do 14 vs 16 on the front cross member I use 12ga very stiff and only thing I have done in that area . On the rear I added a lot of stiffening to keep the diff from moving around - note blocks of steel in place of the sheet steel for for-aft locator rods . Diff is also moved up and has HD top-mounts and will have ear brace added. I run solid shafts vs rotoflex.

Things I wished I did - enclosed open-side of the box where the front shocks mount and also open up a bit so I can use 2.0 springs vs 1.9. closing the box eliminates the rust issue one and for all.

Other things to consider - might want to run the adjustable top a-arms and the one of the adjustable rears. I also recommend swapping in the 2.5 adj rear spring set up with one of the drop correcting shock options now available.

good luck -

G

[glb]

while I went w/the Spyder chassis, I do have 1 recommendation:

There are "thrust rods" (?) going forward from the diff. Weld in extra metal plates where they go into the chassis, as these holes can become a bit oblong.

[elancoupe]

Originally Posted by cabc26b

Other things to consider - might want to run the adjustable top a-arms and the one of the adjustable rears. I also recommend swapping in the 2.5 adj rear spring set up with one of the drop correcting shock options now available.

I run the adjustable rears, and adjustable fronts, top and bottom. The limited droop rear shocks were not available at the time of the build, they are on the want list.

[55mini]

Looks like most have been covered but would add a couple more things to list as I have done two or three chasis now. I added a layer of angle the full length on each side of lower outside area of tunnel as this is the most prone to rust damage. I added layers to the brackets for the motor mounts and front swaybar. It looks like George did also in his pictures. I added two triangle plates to the inside of the front towers. On the lower outside of towers if they are not rusty I opened two holes, one forward and one back to help get the road grim out. I may have missed a few and as with the photos posted I have a full set and also have a few old articles from old ReMarques. If you need I can scan and post or email to you.
Good luck
Mark

[glb]

do some ppl cover the frt towers so moisture doesn't get in there? I kept the stock ones filled with lube.

[55mini]

glb
I usually open larger hole as the little one that is original plugs fast. I then add a second one at the other corner. Then rust treat area with metal prep and coat with rubberized undercoating. When back on the road I make sure I wash out the towers often. So far have held up well.
Mark

I like the lub idea also.

[khamai]

Originally Posted by glb

do some ppl cover the frt towers so moisture doesn't get in there? I kept the stock ones filled with lube.

I welded a cover in the front tower and enlarged the holes at the bottom.

Cheers,
Kiyoshi

[glb]

Originally Posted by 55mini

glb
I usually open larger hole as the little one that is original plugs fast. I then add a second one at the other corner. Then rust treat area with metal prep and coat with rubberized undercoating. When back on the road I make sure I wash out the towers often. So far have held up well.
Mark

I like the lub idea also.

I don't remember which lube I used in 80s, but I do know that motorcycle chain lube never washes away/off. I use in on my snowblower, and filled slight seams on Spyder chassis with it.

=gb=