Advice needed on wheel aligment

[Jonathan]

Hi All

Had a couple of P Zero - Sliver's installed on the rears a few days ago and they changed the wheel alignment as I was asked what type of driving I did and recommended a more suited alignment, because I manly use the freeway and have had only one track day in 2 years.

My question is, have I done the right thing as the car does feel slightly different. attached are the settings img-Z071301-0001.pdf

Thanks

[Julian73]

Biggest thing they did was fix your rear toe, the left/right balance was screwed up with one out and other in. From toe was also made less agressive. General they did a good left/right balance.... Question did they set with you (or equal weight) in car?

[donour]

I'm not sure they fixed the rear toe. I assume, here, that positive toe values mean toe out. You don't want toe out in the rear, at all. If its flipped, that means you have toe-in in the front, which you also don't want.

The factory manual specifies zero toe in the front and ~1.5mm "toe-in" in the rear. Camber looks fine for highway driving. The service manual also specifies to measure only with a full tank and 330 lbs in the front seat in order to set ride height.

donour

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[Julian73]

By fixed I was referring to them balancing left and right rear .. worse than out of spec angles is a misbalance left to right, car was toe in on one wheel toe in on the other. Car is then just a handful, with different stability characteristics in left or right hand turns.
Factory toe settings are still not met and I would not be surprised if the shop did not have them and was shooting in the dark. I would blame this as much on the OP as them, with any sports car (common or as a Miata or as rare as an Evora), I would bring the alignment specs that I expect the shop to produce. Prior to the start of work we agree that they are either factory specs or that owner takes responsibility of the settings, we also agree on what must be absolutes and what can give if camber and caster are mutually exclusive.

As to the OP’s results original is “undrivable; final values while needing another go at it have improved front toe in by have , balanced caster within spec, dreaded rear twitchiness with over compensation of toe in but at least balanced side to side to 0.1 mm from a terrible 1.5 mm delta. This also shows up in trust angle getting back to 0. Good no, drivable yes, Aggressive for track turn in response no.


PS plus (+) toe eqauls Toe-in ..(-) is out

General stettings -
Toe Front: For street, one wants front toe-in, for fast track toe in, auto cross netral (0) to out.
Toe Rear: For street, one needs front toe-in, for fast track toe in to neutral, auto cross 0.

F/R Camber: negative most importantly balanced LH to RH
Castor: minimal and most importantly balanced LH to RH
Trust Angle: 0