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#21 (permalink) |
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Just happy to be here
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Perhaps this should be a poll question, but has anyone had their clutch replaced due to normal wear and tear (not a faulty component from the factory)? I also wonder who has the most mileage on their Evora without a clutch replacement. We should have some 2010 DD's that are approaching 40k miles on the clock.
For my part I have 10k and have no clutch issues. It seems we have a lot of hand-wringing of late (myself included) over the clutch replacement costs. It would be nice to quantify the average lifetime clutch cost to the extent possible - admittedly at an early stage with a small population.
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"A typical acre of Florida land produces an average revenue of three cents per year in falling cocaine bales." |
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#22 (permalink) | |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Orlando, FL
Posts: 9
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Quote:
I've pretty much sorted all my other concerns, looking at a 2011 car with an updated dash (for the warm weather issues). Tire wear I've found out is mostly due to the fact they spec out 1.5mm toe-in from the factory in the rear, and oil and brakes I can do myself. Aside from any random warranty defects I don't see any abnormal costs apart from the inevitable clutch replacement. Now at what mileage that clutch may come, we'll have to see. I should suspect 60k minimum, under normal wear. With a high likelihood it will get you farther.
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2003 Kawasaki 636 ZX-6R 2009 Dodge RAM Sport 4x4 2004 Subaru impreza WRX STi (sold) |
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#23 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Irvine, CA
Posts: 341
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Lynn, mine is a 2011 DD driver pushing 21K miles (mostly freeway) and the clutch is flawless. (although watch it go out now that I cursed it!). I think the 30K number was merely a guestimate. I will also mention that I've talked to my dealer who has done a few clutches, all have been warranty and none have been from normal wear and tear.
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#24 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Chandler, AZ
Posts: 614
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To the OP,
I wouldn't let the maintenance cost prevent you from getting an Evora. It simply is not any different than your average car. You noted that brakes were due at 10k to 15k. I'm at 17,000 miles and they're fine -- even with three track days!
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'10 Solar Yellow Evora '06 Chili Red Elise (sold) |
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#25 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Irvine, CA
Posts: 341
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cdn, great point. I'm at 21k and no where near needing new brake pads. I have several mm left on both the inside and outside pads. I'm guessing maybe something closer to 35k at the rate I'm going (again, largely freeway miles)?
Also, a comment about the tires. I've heard people chew threw them in as little as 3K (extreme, but pretty bad none the less). However, in my case, 21K and I probably have another month or two left of safe thread on the rears before I need to replace. The fronts are basically 80% still. So my point is, the picture is not as bad as you think. Heck, I'd argue it's no worse than any other sports car and is really more dependant on your driving style than anything else. |
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#26 (permalink) | |
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Just happy to be here
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Quote:
An expensive clutch replacement job is one thing. A clutch with a short life is something else (though the former added to the later would make for a bad combo).
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"A typical acre of Florida land produces an average revenue of three cents per year in falling cocaine bales." |
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#27 (permalink) |
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Lotus Addict
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1 year or 9K miles per oil change doesn't sound typical to me. Should be 3-5K miles, but mostly depends on how you drive.
As for tires, the stock ones are fantastic but extremely soft will only last 5-6000 miles miles or so... again depending mostly on how you drive. If you go with cheaper tires, they may last you twice as long but won't get near the performance of the Pirellis. And the clutch? Well if you're looking at a 2011, that's on the borderline when Lotus implemented improvements in the clutch. Not sure if the car you're looking at has a newer or retrofitted master cylinder or throwout bearing or not. If so, then you're good to go. Mine has performed flawlessly since replacement over 2 years ago. If you intend to DD this car and not track the hell out of it, you should be fine, mechanically. Just don't expect this expensive car will be without lots of niggles. It comes with the territory. I learned the hard way but am way past that now.
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They all do that, sir. |
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#28 (permalink) | |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Northern New England
Posts: 419
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Quote:
I can tell you from experience that you're lucky to get 4000 miles out of the rear Corsa's.
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2011 Evora S 2+2 in Persian Blue with Oyster 2003 350Z, Track edition 2011 Xterra, for 6 months of winter |
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#29 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Irvine, CA
Posts: 341
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KCZ, that's easy for the novice to know. Most NA's (mine included) came with the standard Pzero's, while mostly SC cars came with the Corsas.
And to be even more specific, if you had the 19/20 wheel combo (mostly SC cars), these came w/ Corsas. I mention this, because I've actually seen a few IPS '12 and '13 NA cars that shipped with the 19/20 diamond wheel combo which had previously been exclusive to SC cars. Even then, I'm sure you do a lot of spirited/surface street driving perhaps? This is where most of your rubber scrubbing occurs. As I'm pretty sure I'd get a lot more than 4k out of the Corsas, but again I do largely freeway miles. |
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#30 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Northern New England
Posts: 419
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Yes, you may be able to figure all that out. How is the new OP going to know anything if a post doesn't include any information as to whether the car in question is NA or SC'd, tire/wheel sizes, or tire model? The Lotus website didn't even display the differences in OEM tires the last time I checked. And in addition to the Pirelli's, the board now has owners with replacement tires from other brands. That Corsa wear rating of 60 is pretty important when interpreting a longevity of 4000-5000 miles.
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2011 Evora S 2+2 in Persian Blue with Oyster 2003 350Z, Track edition 2011 Xterra, for 6 months of winter |
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#31 (permalink) | |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Orlando, FL
Posts: 9
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Quote:
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2003 Kawasaki 636 ZX-6R 2009 Dodge RAM Sport 4x4 2004 Subaru impreza WRX STi (sold) |
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#32 (permalink) | |
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Frankfurt/Main, Germany
Posts: 454
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Quote:
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2011 Evora S 2+0 // carbon grey // diamond cut rims // charcoal leather // Schroth Rallye 3 ASM harness |
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#34 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Orlando, FL
Posts: 9
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Hopping that someone see's this because I didn't want to make a new post.
The car i'm looking at is well equipped, it just doesn't have the tech package most of these things I can do without but.. I'm wondering if the factory homelink can be installed/retrofit.
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2003 Kawasaki 636 ZX-6R 2009 Dodge RAM Sport 4x4 2004 Subaru impreza WRX STi (sold) |
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#35 (permalink) |
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Just happy to be here
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Can't comment on aftermarket Homelink install, but IMHO, the backup camera and sensors are more important than Homelink. If the car doesn't have those, I would look into adding those aftermarket first. Having a garage remote clipped to the visor, while not ideal, is manageable. Backing into my garage and out of parking spaces in close quarters without a backup cam - less manageable.
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"A typical acre of Florida land produces an average revenue of three cents per year in falling cocaine bales." |
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#36 (permalink) | |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Orlando, FL
Posts: 9
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Quote:
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2003 Kawasaki 636 ZX-6R 2009 Dodge RAM Sport 4x4 2004 Subaru impreza WRX STi (sold) |
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#37 (permalink) |
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***ana Truck Driver
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I do have the Homelink and the Backup cam/sensors.
I have to imagine there is a better alternative to the Homelink. I wouldn't want to just clip a remote to the visor, but the Homelink doesn't have great range and 1 out of 10 times I pull up to my garage, it takes takes two or three attempts to get it to open, and it opens my community gate maybe 1 out of 10 times. As for backup camera/sensors, I might glance at the camera every once in a while, but I would certainly be content without it. Maybe I don't do as much close quarters maneuvering as others (I do live in the suburbs), but if I get close enough to something that I need to rely on the camera to not hit it, I just figure I'm already close enough. This is the first car I've ever owned that I really love, and I'm definitely worried about the eventual emotional breakdown that will come with the inevitable first bump/knick/curb scrape or whatever it is. |
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#38 (permalink) | |
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Registered User
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Quote:
Tyre wear is typically between 7,000-14,000 miles depending on how and where you drive (lots of Motorway driving means less wear lots of highish speed corners = more) if you are fairly aggressive expect towards the lower end I am fairly easy on tyres and on current driving I expect to get around 10,000 The Clutch should be fine unless you ride it or otherwise abuse it |
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